English America, or, Pictures of Canadian places and people [microform]

H AMERICA:

“ENGLIS

PICTURES OF CANADIAN PLACES
AND PEOPLE.

SAMUEL PHILLIPS DAY,

Author of “Down South ; or Experiences at the Seat of War
in America,” etc., etc,

Sondon:
T. CAUTLEY NEWBY, PUBLISHER,

80, WELBECK STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE.

1864,
(THB RIGHT OF TRANSLATION 18 RESERVED.)

To
JAMES WYLL, kso, MP,

ETC., BTC,,
THESE VOLUMES 4RE INSCRIBED

48 AN

SXPRESSION or REGARD,

BY HIs SINCERE FRIEND,

THE AUTHOR,

CONTENTS OF VOLUME IL

CHAPTER L

THE VOYAGE OUT.
PAGE.

Embarkation—Arrival at Moville—A “ Black Fast” in London-
derry—Singularly-shaped Icebergs—Breaking of an Engine—

The St. Lawrence—Scenery round Cape Gaspé—Peaks and
Perils of the St, Lawrence, . . .

CHAPTER II.

QUEBEC,

The Capital of Canada—Population—The First Colonista—
The Citadel—Residences, Ancient an? Modern—Municipal
Neglect—Historical Memories—The Marine Hospital—A
Chapter of Accidents—Fétes d’Obligation—The Ship Buildiag
Trade—Legend of the “Hermitage” . .

CHAPTER III.

TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.

Scenic Beauties of Quebec—Dwellings of the Habitans—Falls of
Montmorenci—The Natural Steps—Indian Village of Lorette
—Burning of a Church—Peasant Life—The Legislative
Bodies—Political Parties—The Parliamentary Library .

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.
MINISTERIAL CRISIS.

PAGE,
The New Canadian Cabinet—Sketches of its Members—Depart-
aa mental Mismanagement—Financial Position and Prosperity
| of the Province—Purging the Departments—Policy of the iG
| Adminstration—An Unpopular Adjutant-General . oe. « 68
{ \a

CHAPTER V.

THE DEFENCE OF CANADA.

| Rejection of the Militia Bill—Passing of a Modified Measure—
Recall of Colonel Lysons, C.B.—Supineness among Volun-

i teerse—Strength of the Active Militia Force of Quebec—
Canada a Spoilt Child—Spirit of the French-Canadian
Press—Antipathy towards England—The New York Press
Condoles with the Canadians—Annexation and a French
{ Protectorate Denounced—Anglo-Federal Journals—-Effective
Volunteer Force of the Province. . ee ’ : . 88

a | CHAPTER VIL %
a THE UNIVERSITY OF LAVAL—THE GRAND AND 4
LITTLE SEMINARIES.

Grant of a Royal Charter—Prince of Wales’ Visit—Institution
of a Prize—Outline of the Buildings, Cabinets, Museums, etc. i
—Pupils and Professors—Government of the Seminary—The i
Late Rector—The Grand Seminary for Theological Students
—Financial Position of the University—Costume of the
Scholars in the Little Seminary—Residence of the Prieste—

Monseigneur De Laval—His Educational Labours—Chapel
of the Seminary—Saintly Relics—A Combination of Mishaps, 101

CHAPTER VII.
MORAL ASPECTS OF THE CAPITAL.

Separate School Systems—The First School in Canada—How
Common Schools are Supported—Educational Statistice—
The Old Jesuit College Metamorphosed into a Barrack—
Preponderance and Description of Crime—Visit to the Gaol
—What Constitutes “Hard Labonr”"—The “Room of

Records "—A Maniac—Gaol Dietary—Condition of the Prison

and the Prisoners—Absence of Classification ey » 118

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52

83

101

118 ui

CONTENTS.«

CHAPTER VIIL

LUNACY IN LOWER CANADA.-——THE ASYLUM AT
BEAUPORT.

PAGE.

Lunatics Originally Confined in Religious Houses—Their Con-

dition and Treatment—Sir C. Metcalfe’s Philanthropic Exer-
tions in their Behalf—First Receptions of Insane Persons at
Beaufort Asylum—Pleasurable -Emotions Created in their
Minds by the Change of Scene and Discipline—Description
of the New Building and the Grounds—Patients and their
Occupations — Rationale of Treatment Adopted — Library
and News Room—Effects of Religious, Asthetic, and
Social Observances—Singular Examples of Mental Aberra-
tion—The Beaufort Type of Insanity . R . ‘

CHAPTER IX.
MONTREAL.

Situation and Extent of the City—The “ Mountain "—Judicial

Divisions of the Province—Foundation of Montreal—Position
of an Early Governor—The Coureurs de Bois—Social and
Commercial Progress—Railroads and Canals—Transforma-
tions—The Corporation—Assessed Property—Conspicuous
Public Edifices—Eyesores—Scotch Settlers—Nelson’s Monu-
ment —- The Volunteer Movement—Allegiance of the People
The Flower of the Army—Prince of Wales’ Fishing Club—
Editorial Amenities—Evils of Garrison Life—Scene on the
Champ de Mars—Military Insubordination . : 48

CHAPTER X.

INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES AND SOCIAL CONDITION
OF THE ‘‘IgLAND CITY.”

Mr. Anthony Trollope’s Strictures—The Victoria Iron Works—

Nails and Nailers—Rolling Mills—Scientific Process of Pud-
dling—The Royal, City, and Canal Flour Mills—Economiza-
tion of Labour—The Canada Marine Works—Vicissitudes of
the Confederate Privateer, Sumpter—The Sugar Refinery—
Advantages of the Lachine Canal—The Montreal Ocean
Steam Ship Company—The Geological Museum, and Sir
William | Povena ucational Institutes—Condition of
Criminality e e e e e ° e e e e

129

156

178

CS SS eae eetiieaes pan
= —————

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

FETES AND FEASTING.

Visit of the Governor-General—Civic and Military Display—

Scene at the Wharf—The Public Reception—His Excellency’s
Reply to the Corporate Address—The Cortége—Concert at
the “Crystal Palace”—Grand Review and Mimic Fight on
Logan’s Farm—Banquet at St. Lawrence Hall—The Levée—
blr Performance by Military Amateurs— Effects of a

rtie e e e e e e e e * e e

CHAPTER XII.

KAKOUNA, ‘‘ THE BRIGHTON OF CANADA.”

Quitting Montreal—On Board a Steamer—Town of Sorel—Its

Historical Interest—Cascade of Chambli—Riviére du Loup—
Kakouna—Topography of the Place—French Canadian Lodg-
ing-House Keepers—O’Neill’s Hotel—Fashionable Life at
this Watering Place —A Gifted Jehu—A Yankee Speculator—
An “ Artist” par excellence—An Indian Encampment—Visit

‘to a Convent—The Catholic Church—Sunday Auction for the

Benefit of a Soul in Purgatory—Drive to the Falls—A Strange
Story—Atmospherical Phenomena in the Lower St. Law-
rence e e e e e e e e e e e

CHAPTER XIII.

RETURN TO QUEBEC,

French-Canadian Pretensions—The Exodus from the States—

‘“ Skedaddling "—A Wo-begone Federal Soldier—Yankee
Emissaries Discomfited—Outrages by Federal Sentinels at
Niagara—A Volunteer Hero—The Turf Club Races—
Description of the Race Course—Military Murders—Presen-
tation of the Victoria Cross to Captain Burslam—Colonel
Paynter Taking Farewell of the Garrison—His Observations
on the Immoral Habits of the Troops . ee eta

PAGE.

211

229

254

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

THE LATE SIR ALLAN NAPIER MACNAB.

PAGE, I,
5E, Antecedents of the Defunct Baronet—His Progenitors—The hs
School Boy Soldier and the Midshipman—Studies Law, and

Commences Practice as an Advocate—Attains the Rank of

Queen’s Counsel—Becomes a Member and Speaker of the

Legislative Assembly—He Engages in the Rebellion, and

Marches to the Protection of Toronto—He Receives the Wt

Honour of Knighthood and the Commendation of the Queen a

11 —Sir Allan’s Parliamentary Career—His Attendance Upon ¥
the Prince of Wales—His Personal Appearance and Charac-

ter—His Last Illness—Indecorous Scenes at his Death and if

Burial—The Protestant Clergyman and the Roman Catholic iy.

Bishop e e e e e e e e e e e 285

CHAPTER XV.

4 THE INTER-COLONIAL RAILWAY.

Origin of the Important Scheme—Interest Taken in the Under-
taking by the British Government at various Times—Promises
but no Performances—Extent of Line Formed by the Canadian
Government—Conference of the Executive Representatives of
the Three Provinces—Length and Expense of the Line to Com-
plete the Communication—Winter March of the British

229 Troops from Halifax to Canada—Difficulties as to Routes for
the Projected Railway—The Trade of Canada in Relation to

the Sister Provinces—Circular of the Finance Minister—

Monopoly of Colonial Trade by American Shipowners. .

ENGLISH AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.

THE VOYAGE OUT.

Embarkation—Arrival at Moville—A “Black Fast” in London-

derry —Singularly-shaped Icebergs—Breaking of anEngine—
Scenery round Cape Gaspé—Peaks and Perils of the St. Law-
rence,

On the 6th of May, 1862, I embarked from
Liverpool for Quebec, in the Hibernian, one of the
Montreal Ocean Steam-Ship Company’s vessels.
Her appoiniments were excellent, while her mag-
nificent saioon and large, lofty state-rooms are, I
may safely say, unrivalled. Such advantages,
apart from a plentiful if not a luxurious table, |
can scarcely be overrated during a voyage even | "
of twelve days’ duration. Upon leaving the
Meresy we had about forty cabin and over two
hundred steerage passengers. Most of the latter
belonged to the better class of emigrants.

VOL. I. B

2 ENGLISH AMERICA.

The day was calm and bright—the noble river
smooth as crystal ; and these benignant aspects
of nature seemed to be sympathetically imparted
to every one on board.

Early next morning we reached Moville, on
the Irish coast, a distance of one hundred and
eighty miles; As the Hibernian would be
detained for some hours, owing to the embarka-
tion of some one hundred additional emigrants,
afew saloon passengers, including myself, took
advantage of a steamer that came along-side and
crossed over to Londonderry. The landlord of
the principal hotel, where we took breakfast,
kindly placed his private jaunting-car at our dis-
posal, and directed the driver to conduct us to
the beautiful new Cemetery a few miles from the
city. We were very thankful for such an exhibi-
tion of politeness and unaffected good nature,
especially as the trip proved a pleasant one. The
town wore a miserably dull aspect, as if it were
doing penance in sackcloth and ashes! Most of
the shops were closed, and the window-blinds were
drawn down in private houses. Few persons passed
in the streets, except ragged urchins and pro-
fessional beggars, whose doleful whines and
doltish importunities it were difficult to resist.
I thought that the Mayor, or some other great
functionary, must certainly have been dead, and

THE VOYAGE OUT. 3

that the attached citizens adopted these modes of
giving expression to their grief. On no other
grounds could I account for the direful appear-
ances that presented themselves on every hand.
Upon inquiry, however, I ascertained, with some
degree of mortification, that the day happened to
be observed as a “black fast” among the Presby-
terians. Having returned to our hotel, shaken
hands with our worthy host, and made a pilgrim-
age around the famous walls of Derry, we re-
embarked, bidding adieu to the fair Green Isle
which has given birth to poets, philosophers, and
orators, who will be honoured through all time,
and whose names will never cease to be associated
with our literature.

The Hibernian soon again got under weigh. In
steaming out of Loch Foyle, I noticed a hand-
some mansion belonging to Mr. Mc Cormack,
the Irish railway contractor, whose speculations
have proved so successful. The arrangements on
board for such a numerous living freight were
excellent. Shortly after we left the Irish coast,
we experienced a protracted and stormy passage ;
our brave vessel encountering head winds and
high cross seas almost uninterruptedly. A
few accidents occurred in the shape of broken
arms and dislocated shoulders, which were imme-
diately attended to by the surgeon. While off

B2

4 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Cape Race we passed numerous icebergs, some of
which assumed fantastic shapes. One had the
appearance of an ecclesiastical edifice partially in
ruins, and towered to the height of four hundred
feet, Another could scarcely be distinguished at
a distance from a ship in full sail. The proximity
to icebergs can generally be ascertained by the
temperature of the sea-water, which accordingly is
frequently tested in the foggy regions of the
Newfoundland banks. It is these icebergs,
together with field-ice, that render the passage
across the Atlantic so perilous at certain seasons
of the year, when the ice begins to break up in
Northern latitudes.

We had just cleared Cape Ray, and were about
five hundred and fifty miles from our destination,
when, to add to the other miseries and dangers
of the voyage, one of the ship’s engines became
disabled. Eight weary hours had elapsed before
the machinery could be detached or we could get
under weigh again, during which time we drifted
many miles towards the coast. This was a period
of great anxiety to the captain, the officers, and
indeed to all on board. Our suspense was par-
tially relieved by having sighted a steamer a-head,
which, upon being signalled, bore down to our
assistance in case of danger. This vessel proved
to be the Jura, one of the Montreal Ocean

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THE ST, LAWRENCE. 5

Company’s fleet, which steamed round the
Hibernian until she was enabled to resume
her voyage. Fortunately this un-looked-for
accident did not occur on the previous day,
while the vessel was in the neighbourhood
of icebergs, or possibly the Hibernian (with
over five hundred souls on board) might have
drifted against one and gone to pieces, whild
none of her numerous passengers or crew would
have survived to record the tale.

‘From Cape Gaspé up the St. Lawrence to
Quebec, a distance of five hundred miles, the
view was quite imposing. The numerous villages
extending all along the coast, presented the ap-
pearance of one immense encampment; for the
wooden cottages and log farm-houses, painted
white, glistened in the sun, and very much
resembled interminable rows of tents.

The magnificence and boldness of the scenery
can scarcely be surpassed. Vast undulating
mountains, densely covered with the growth of
centuries, raise their kingly crests on either side
of the tortuous river, inspiring the beholder with
the highest impressions of the beautiful. The vil-
lages and hamlets are exclusively inhabited by
French Canadians, some of whom are possessed of
“considerable means. 'The majority, however, are
poor. A more energetic race may have further

6 ENGLISH AMERICA.

peopled the desolate waste, penetrated further
across the mountains into the forests, and further
reclaimed the earth. Nevertheless, they have not
been idle; and the habitations of men, and the
evidences of Christianity and her civilizing influ-
ences, are not wanting.

The St. Lawrence is a noble river, although its
navigation is difficult and dangerous. Its greatest
breadth is seventy-eight miles, but it narrows into
a channel of three-quarters of a mile broad at
Quebec. The valley through which it flows is en-
closed by mountains on either side. Fifty miles
northwards the country has been but little ex-
plored, and is covered with immense impenetrable
forests. These wastes will possibly one day be |
opened up by the indomitable energy of the Anglo-
Saxon race.

Rife with picturesque grandeur and melancholy

. interest; and rich in legendary lore, is the Lower

St. Lawrence. Upon entering the Gulf two huge
rocks, called the Bird Rocks, uttract attention.
These are upwards of one hundred feet high, and
their flat, narrow summits assume a resplen:lent
whiteness. Several descriptions of birds have
taken up their abode in apertures formed in these
perpendicular cliffs, such as the gannet, the puffin,
three species of guillemuts, and the razor-billed
auks. Then there is Egg Island, memorable .on

PEAKS AND PERILS, 7

account of the total destruction of the English
Armada, in 1711, under Admiral Walker, upon at-
tempting the invasion of Canada. Not less re-
markable is the Island of Anticosta, lying exactly
in mid-channel, on whose inaccessible shores the
notorious pirate, Gamache, for many years made
his home, and which has been the scene of nu-
merous shipping disasters, the latest in Novem-
ber, 1861. Percé Rock, L’Islet au Massacre, and

Cap au Diable, have, been rendered prominent by

the dark and cruel deeds once enacted thereupon,
giving rise to a number of legends concerning ap-
paritions, in which sailors, proverbially supersti-
tious, and the neighbouring fishermen, repose
implicit faith.

At length, after a severe and tedious passage of
thirteen days, we arrived on the hospitable shores
of English America, to the inexpressible delight
of everybody, to none more so than myself.

ENGLISH AMERICA.

CHAPTER II.

QUEBEC,

The Capital of Canada— Historical Memories—The Marine Hos-
pital—A Chapter of Accidents—Fétes d’Obligation—The
Shipping Trade—Legend of the ‘‘ Hermitage.”

On the western shore of the St. Lawrence lies
Quebec, the oldest city in Canada,on a neck of land
bounded by that river on the east, and on the
north by the St. Charles. On the south side the
mountain on which the city is built rises con-
siderably, extending for miles in a westerly
direction. Viewed either from an historical or a
picturesque stand-point, it possesses an interest
accorded to no other city on the American conti-
nent, and being the military key to North America
endows it with additional importance as a stra-
tegical position for defensive operations.

The original title of what is now United Canada
was, in official parlance, termed the Province of
Quebec, just as under French rule it was denomi-

9

POPULATION.

nated Nouvelle France, Towards the close of the
last century the appellation of province was divided
between Upper and Lower Canada. In 1841, or
thereabouts, these Provinces became re-united,
when they were authoritatively designated ‘‘ Ca-
nada East ” and “‘ Canada West.” It is somewhat
anomalous that the law courts of the former
should employ the words, “ that part of the Pro-
vince of Canada heretofore called Lower Canada,”’
in all legal documents, scrupulously avoiding the
use of the official phrase ‘‘ Canada Hast,” and that
the people should still distinguish the different
sections as Upper and Lower Canada. The Ottawa
or Grand River, a stream probably about the
magnitude of the Danube, divides these countries
for the greater part of its length.

In extent, Lower Canada, in round numbers, is
as three to two against Upper Canada. By
the same rough calculation the population of
Upper Canada is at the uttermost a little more
than as twenty-seven to twenty-one against that
of Lower Canada. That of the latter, by the same
reckoning, is four to one French Canadian and
Roman Catholic, of whom more than seven-eighths
are unacquainted with English. Of the remainder
one-third are Roman Catholics, but not of French
extraction, and the rest Protestants: making
twelve-fifteenths Roman Catholics of the French
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10 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tongue ; one-fifteenth Roman Catholics not of the
French tongue ; and two-fifteenths Protestants of
various denominations.

In Upper Canada from one-fifth to one-seventh
of the people are Romanists of all origins ; the re-
maioder comprise different Protestant bodies.
The entire western population is an English speak-
ing community. The descendants of the United
Empire Loyalists, or allies of Great Britain, during
the American revolution of 1776, form a consider-
able portion of the people, while their influence,
respectability, and wealth, are more than com-
mensurate with their numbers. There is a foreign
element in the population, but it is not conspi-
cuous. The negroes, especially fugitive slaves,
though not in reality very numerous, are more
abundant than in Lower Canada. In both sec-
tions of the province the Indians only number a
few thousand souls. There are but few full-
blooded Indians in Western, and scarcely any in
Eastern Canada. Those of the former consist
chiefly of the Iroquois tribes; those of the latter
are mostly confined to the Hurons.

The origin of the word Quebec is shrouded in
mystery ; eminent authorities disagreeing as tu
its derivation. Its root has never been disco-
vered in any Indian language or dialect, and some
have supposed that it partakes both of French

St B

THE FIRST COLONISTS. 11

and Norman derivation. It is admitted, however,
that the place was called Stadacona by the Indians
who inhabited it at the time of Jacques Cartier,
who is generally considered the first discoverer of
Canada, because he was more fortunate than his
predecessor, poor John Veresan, who was eaten by
the savages, and thus prevented from reaping the
rewards and honours of his adventure. After the
Montagnez, or inferior Algonquins, had evacuated
Quebec it was taken possession of by the
Hurons, by whom it was named Tia-ton-ta-rili, or
‘‘ the place of the strait,” and by this title, ac-
cording to Charlevoix, it was handed down to pos-
terity. Its first colonists came from Rouen, who,
after much opposition from the natives, finally
succeeded in effecting a permanent abode.

This antiquated city has appropriately been
designated ‘‘ the Gibraltar of America ;”’ indeed,
nature seems to have intended it for a position of
defence. Although Quebec itself presents the
appearance of a disinterred town, nevertheless it
is surrounded with natural beauties which border
strongly on the sublime. Perhaps no other city
in the world is so picturesquely situated, or so
deeply impresses the mind of the traveller, and
yet no city is so neglected, or left to advance to-
wards hopeless ruin. The scenic grandeur of this
place has long been the subject of general eulogy.

Nn arias ae en .

SSS eens

12 ENGLISH AMERICA.

The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and
the frowning fortifications—the cupolas and mi-
narets blazing in the sun—the noble basin, like
a sheet of silver, wherein a hundred sail of the
line may safely ride—the river St. Charles, grace-
fully meandering—the numerous village spires
on either side of the St. Lawrence—the fertile
fields dotted with clusters of cottages—the im-
posing scenery of Point Levi and New Liverpool
—the charming Island of Orleans, and in the
distance the bold Cape Tourment and the lofty
range of purple mountains, form a coup dail
almost impossible to be surpassed.

Quebec is divided into what is termed the
Upper and Lower Towns—La haute Ville and La
basse Ville—a precipice of rugged rock, some
three hundred feet in height, separating the one
from the other. The Lower Town is situated
directly at the foot of the dizzy declivity, and
skirts the base of the promontory to a consider-
able extent on both sides. This is the chief mart
of trade and business, from its proximity to the
Custom-house, the wharfs and storehouses. Its
site is almost entirely the creation of human in-
dustry, having been obtained by excavating from
the base of the precipice, and redeemed from the
river by building out into its waters. Both towns
are connected by a narrow passage called Mountain

= nt

THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS. 13

Street—and a mountain in reality itis. This is
chiefly passable for carriages and carts. Foot
passengers find it more convenient to ascend and
descend by what are termed Break-neck Stairs—
an appellation fitly conveying the idea of danger
attending this mode of transit from one part of
Quebec to the other.

The citadel on Cape Diamond—two hundred feet
higher than the base of the Upper Town—is a for-
midable combination of powerful works, and may
well be classed with the celebrated fortresses of
Europe. Its foundation was laid by Champlain, the
first Governor, in 1620, who bestowed on it the title
of St. Louis. It comprises an area of forty acres.
You approach it by a tortuous road, cut through
the summit of the glacis, which conducts to the
outward ditch of the ravelin, and thence to the
principal ditch of the fortifications, built upon
both sides with high walls of solid masonry, and
extending along the entire circumference of the
citadel on the land and city sides. Each bastion
is protected by heavy ordnance, most of which
are mounted on immense iron barbette-car-
riages. This fortress combines every invention
and precaution that science and art could devise
for the security of the city and the protection of
the garrison. A fine row of buildings, formed of
cut stone, having a paved terrace in front, is ap-

14 ENGLISH AMERICA.

propriated for officers’ quarters. In the dark
coloured slate of which Cape Diamond is com-
posed are found limpid quartz crystals, in con-
junction with crystalised carbonate of lime. Owing
to these crystals, which sparkle brilliantly, the
Cape derives its name.

Quebec, the present seat of Government, has
all the appearance of a French town, and the
traveller has no slight difficulty in disabusing
himself of the idea. The quaint houses, long,
narrow streets, the number of Catholic churches
and conventual establishments with which it
abounds, the array of ecclesiastics and nuns, in
the costumes of their respective orders, whom one
perpetually encounters, the ringing of convent
bells all day long, the foreign patois one con-
tinually hears spoken —nay, even the very sign-
boards over the various stores, seem to convey
impressively the idea that Quebec is not a
Colonial city of the British crown. Everything
is French.

The city, embracing within its limits both
towns, is divided into districts, known as the St.
Louis, Palace, St. Peter’s, St. John’s, St Roch’s,
and Champlain wards, their united population
numbering a little over fifty-one thousand souls,
Of these nearly twenty-nine thousand are of
French origin, possessing all the peculiar traits,

ert; Oo FPF fr Owe Ww OO “

15

e RESIDENCES, ANCIENT AND MODERN.

predilections, and, unfortunately, prejudices of
their Norman ancestry. Although close upon
a century has elapsed since the conquest, still the
habitans never have amalgamated, and never will
amalgamate, with the other European setilers.

™ They quietly follow their own pursuits, live for the

most part in peculiar districts, and having food and
raiment appear perfectly contented with their lot,
and have no ambition to improve it. In this people
there exists no element of progress—a circum-
stance which accounts for the Jow social condition
of Quebec, fully a century behind all other
Canadian towns."

The houses, generally low and inconveuiently
crowded, are frequently built of wood, especially
in thesuburbs. The roofs, too, are of shingle—
white cedar, selected for its lightness and dura-
bility—over which in the better class residences
a covering of tin is placed. Some of the modern
erections are of uncut stone boarded over, but
brick edifices are very uncommon, A few specu-
lative individuals have raised here and there huge
stores, after the American style of architecture,
distinguished by the magnitude of the shop
fronts. Generally speaking, these had proved
failures. One of the most imposing establish-
ments of this class not having been found to
answer the purposes of its owner, he was induced

16 ENGLISH AMERICA.

to let off the upper storys of the building to the
proprietor of Russell’s Hotel, who, during the
legislative session, had them fitted up as dormi-
tories for his numerous guests. The lofty store
was shut up all day, but was opened towards
evening, when a showily-dressed yankeised-Irish-
man, with a stentorian voice that could be heard
distinctly a quarter of a mile off, disposed of
dry goods by auction to a tag-rag and bob-tail
auditory, some of whom smoked their clay pipes
in cool indifference, while the energetic gentle-
man on the top of a box, disencnmbered of his
coat, was roaring out “going, going, gone!”
meanwhile handing over to some Johnny Green
of a spectator an alleged remnant of a bank-
ruptcy stock, sacrificed to the cupidity of an in-
exorable creditor !

Quebec has been built without the slightest
regard to geometrical rule or proportion. The
streets run any way, and the houses look so
rickety, that there would be an inevitable crash
did they not lean for security against each other.
They do, however, manage to tumble down some-
times, that is when a fire does not save them the
exertion. Everything seems fast hurrying to
decay, and yet the Aaditans appear either uncon-
scious of, or indifferent to, the fact. The narrow
plank footpaths and the plank and block roads

MUNICIPAL NEGLECT. 17

are in a woeful state of dilapidation, so that if
you walk you are liable to break your leg at every
step; and if you ride the caléche jolts so fiercely
that you stand a chance either of being pitched
out or else having your neck dislocated. Surely
the municipal authorities have much to answer
for by thus neglecting to mend their ways,
and endangering the lives and limbs of her
Majesty’s subjects. And yet the householders
pay taxes for the especial purpose of repairing
the roads and footpaths; a matter, I must con-
fess, very difficult to understand.

‘How is it?” I inquired of a magistrate,
‘that the corporation suffer the highways and
byways to remain in such a disgraceful condition?”

‘It is, I suppose, because they have no funds,”
was the ready rejoinder: “all that they can
scrape together goes towards paying interest on
borrowed money.”

Even the lighting of the streets is most miser-
ably managed. Some of them are not lighted at
all; but even where the process is attempted—
and it is nothing more—the gas is so bad, and
the lamps are so far apart, that it seems a needless
waste of time and money for no purpose. The
lamps indeed emit but a dim ray, only serving to
render darkness visible. But of this paltry

18 ENGLISH AMERICA.

glimmer the city is deprived whenever the moon
shines, or whenever it is expected that she would
shine—it makes no difference which—a narrow
impolitic economy, only adopted in some out-
of-the-way third-rate town in the “ old country.”
How lamentable to think that a locality possess-
ing so many eventful historical associations, and
surrounded by so many natural beauties, should
be suffered to fall into a hopeless state of demoli-
tion, owing to the supineness of its inhabitants,
or the indifference of the legislature ?

All the ancient fabrics are built of lime slate,
of which the mountains and hills for many miles
along the St. Lawrence are composed. A few
feet from the surface this stone is so compact
that a casual observer could not discover it was
slate. Being easily broken and cut to the size
required, it was made available for architectural
purposes, after having been exposed for a year to
the air and sun. The stones, however, had
to be laid in a particular manner in order to
prevent decay.

The stirring historical memories connected with
Quebec a century since are kept alive by a few
tablets to the memories of the great military leaders
who fought and fell upon this classic ground. On
the battle field of the Plains of Abraham is a

WOLFE AND MONTCALM. 19

simple but chaste fluted column, erected in
1849, by the officers of the army in Canada, to
the memory of Wolfe, who, at an early age, was
killed on this spot almost at the moment of victory.
It bears the short but pithy inscription—

HERE DIED
WOLFE,
VICTORIOUS.

A previous monument had been erected in 1835
by Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief, but it was
carried away piecemeal by visitors, whose loyalty
was greatly in excess of their discretion. Never-
theless, it seems a disgraceful omission that so
slight a mark of honour should have been deferred 1
three-quarters of a century after Canada had been es
won by Wolfe’s arms for England; when, in the |
eloquent language of Bancroft, “America rang with
exultation ; the hills glared with bonfires ; legisla-
tures, the pulpit, the press, echoed the general joy ;
provinces and families gave thanks toGod. Eng-
land, too, which had shared the despondency of
Wolfe, triumphed at his victory, and wept for his
death. Joy, grief, curiosity, amazement, were on
every countenance.” Other monuments, public
and private, proclaim the fame of Wolfe and Mont-
calm,—the victor and the vanquished.

20 ENGLISH AMERICA.

The principal of these stands in the Governor’s
Garden, and contains the annexed inscription :—

HvuJUSCE
MONUMENTI IN VIRORUM ILLUSTRIUM,
WOLFE ET MONTCALM,
FUNDAMENTUM, P. C.
GEORGIUS COMES DE DALHOUSIE;

In SEPTENTRIONALIS AMERIC PARTIBUS
SUMMAM RERUM ADMINISTRANS ;
OPUS PER MULTOS ANNOS PRATERMISSUM,
QUID DUCI EGREGIO CONVENTIUS ?
AUCTORITATE PROMOVENS, EXEMPLO STIMULANS,
MUNIFICENTIA FOVENS
DrE NoOvEMBRIS XV.

A. D. MDCCCXXVII,

GEoRGIO IV, BRITANNIARUM REGE.

MORTEM. VIRTUS. COMMUNEM.
FAMAM. HISTORIA.
MONUMENTUM. POSTERITAS,
DEDIT.

The following is a translation :—

‘This monumental stone to the memory of the illustrious
men, Wolfe and Montcalm, was laid by George, Earl of Dal-
housie, Governor-in-Chicf over all the British Provinces in
North America: a work neglected for many years, he promoted
by his influence, encouraged by his example, and favoured by his
munificence, 15th Nov., 1827, George IV. reigning King of Great
Britain.

‘‘ Military prowess gave them a common death ; history a
common fame ; and posterity a common monument, in the year
of our Lord, 1827.”

Montcalm was buried in the Ursuline Convent.
The remains of Wolfe were conveyed to England,
and were interred in the parish church of Green-
wich. Montcalm’s last words consisted in a flat-
tering panegyric upon the British General, and his
heroic troops. The memories of both warriors are
equally cherished in Lower Canada.

. er of ~e —
Sac NT AD - aCe MEN eh xe ey 8 Poe
- ~ taal —

ee

THE MARINE HOSPITAL. 21

Fronting the site of the old Chateau St. Louis,
at Durham Terrace, for centuries the courtly resi-
dence of the Governor, is a fashionable promenade.
This place of public resort is termed “the Plat-
form,”’ the construction of which cost several thou-
sand pounds. It is erected on the summit of the
precipice, and is securely railed in to prevent acci-
dent. Fewer views could be more magnificent or
imposing than that seen from this place, the eye
bringing together verdant fields, and the inter-
minable primeval forest, the frowning fortress, and
the smiling aspects of peaceful industry. Here
commingle in one harmonious extending panorama,
snow-capped mountain and declivitous plain,
sinuous river and broad tranquil waters, stately
ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley,
bola headland and rich fruitful fields, sombre bat-
tlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and
rural spire, flowery garden and sombre forest,—a
veritable phalanx of beauty.

It might appear ungracious were I to pass un-
noticed the Marine Hospital, especially as the
advantages it confers upon English sailors and im-
migrants are incalculable, although its operations
embrace wider bounds. This building is situated
on the banks of the River St. Charles, nearly
opposite the spot where Jacques Cartier wandered
and wintered in 1535; and held converse with

22 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Donnacona, the Indian lord of Canada. The
facade is of the Ionic order; the proportions
being taken from the Temple of the Muses, on the
Illissus, near Naples. With the wings it measures
two hundred and six feet from east to west. The
wings are ten feet in depth, and the entire pre-
mises contain an area of about six acres, a
portion of which has been laid out in
gardens and promenade grounds for conva-
lescents. On the basement floor are Protestant
and Catholic chapels, with temporary apartments
for the officiating ministers, besides store-rooms,
apartments for housekeeper, steward, and nurses,
baths and all necessary conveniences, two large
kitchens, in addition to wards for sixty patients.
The principal story comprises a lofty vestibule, ap-
proached by a double flight of stone steps; suites
of rooms for medical officers, examining rooms,
operating theatres, and beds for sixty-eight
patients. Apartments for the head nurses,
and wards for one hundred and forty patients,
occupy the third story. Higher again is a lying-
in hospital for thirty-four patients; while the
attics are laid out for sixty more, affording alto-
gether accommodation for three hundred and
sixty-two persons. ach story is fitted up
with hot, cold, and vapour baths; while a
number of ventilating flues convey, by peculiar

The
ons
the
ures
The
pre-
3, a
in
nva-
tant
ents
oms,
rses,
arge
ents.
» ap-
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oms,
Pight
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ents,
ying=
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and
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e a

as you enter the town by one of the three

THE ‘‘ ENGLISH CATHEDRAL.” 23

mechanism, the vitiated air to the roof of the
edifice.

Lord Aylmer, governor-general, laid the first
stone of this building on May 28, 18382; it was
opened to the public two years afterwards. The
cost of its construction amounted to twenty-three
thousand pounds. Over thirteen thousand dollars
a year are paid by the Canadian government for
its maintenance. This sum is wholly or partially
obtained by a tax of one penny per ton on every
vessel arriving from sea. There were one hundred
and twenty-five patients in the institution at the
time of my visit. Out of the eight hundred and
thirty-four seamen and immigrants who sought its
shelter during the previous year, very nearly one-
third were from England; one hundred and
seventy-seven came from Scotland, and one hun-
dred and ninety-two from Ireland. The small
remnant belonged to almost every nation.

There are some fine Catholic churches that
completely throw into the shade the paltry edifice
designated by the sounding title of ‘“‘ English
Cathedral,”” consecrated in 1804, and to which
George III. presented a valuable communion ser-
vice. The tall wooden spires of these churches
are covered with tin, and when the sun is setting
they possess a highly imposing effect, especially

24 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Macadamised roads. Quebec possesses no place
of nightly amusement. There is a capital music
hall in the Upper Town, but concerts are rarely
given therein.

The city is deficient in first-class hotels. Indeed
it contains but two that can be classed under this
category, namely Russell House, in Palace Street,
and the St. Louis, establishments conducted by the
same proprietor. In many respects these re-
semble our best English hotels.: There exist the
same quiet and comfort, the same order and
cleanliness, with a more abundant and even luxu-
rious table. Four meals a day are provided for
the guests, and at less than one-half the cost of
similar houses in London. About two and a-half
dollars daily cover every expense. The tables are
arranged in an oblong form along either side of
the dining hall, and, occasionally, small square
tables for private parties occupy a portion of the
centre space. These tables are exquisitely laid
out and profusely ornamented with vases of
flowers, plants, and silver centre-pieces, upon
which all the fruits in season are prettily ar-
ranged. The waiters, who are numerous, appear
in black trousers and immaculate white linen
jackets and aprons, and go through the ceremony
of attendance with the regularity and precision of
soldiers performing their accustomed evolutions.

lace
usic
rely

deed
this
reet,
y the
2 Te-
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- and
juxu-
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st of
-half
bs are
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yuare
f the

HOTEL ARRANGEMENTS. 25

An overlooker is employed to attend to the guests
and see that the waiters perform their duty. The
various courses are placed on the table and re-
moved simultaneously, the sundry operations
being directed by the click of a bell. Instead of

. having to afflict the waiters and distress yourself
by demanding the names of the dishes, a printed bill
of fare is placed by your plate, so that you have
but to order whatever dish most accords with your
fancy or appetite. This excellent system saves in-
credible trouble, and insures wonderful expedi-
tion, especially when one or two hundred guests
have to be accommodated at the same time. Each
employé is obliging without being servile, and
seems to take a pleasure in fulfilling your behesis.
Whatever you need accomplished is punctually
attended to upon making known your desire at
the office. Although there is a considerable ad-
mixture of the American hotel system in similar
establishments in Canada, nevertheless there is a
substantial degree of English comfort about them
which I have found lacking in the Northern and
Southern States of America, during my residence
in these parts of the American Continent.

Quebec appears particularly liable to frightful
casualties in the form of fire. The first great con-
flagration occurred during May, 1845, just after
the country had become somewhat tranquillized,
VOL. I. Cc

26 ENGLISH AMERICA.

and when all the “patriots ” had either been
hanged or appointed to office. A large tannery
first became ignited, and the wind blowing freshly,
the burning embers were distributed far and wide,
so that the district of St. Roch, for more than a
mile in extent, was one vast sheet of flame. Half
consumed human bodies and the carcases of horses
and cattle were strewed about in all directions.
The very same day of the following month a similar
calamity occurred in the St. Louis’ suburb. By
these catastrophes sixteen thousand persons were
rendered homeless, while property to the amount
of nearly six hundred thousand pounds was de-
stroyed. During the ensuing month of June the
theatre—for Quebec once possessed a temple of
Thespis—was consumed during the exhibition of
a diorama, when forty-five citizens, many of whom
belonged to the upper classes, met with a fearful
death.

Shortly after my arrival in the city, two exten-
sive fires occurred during the same week, laying
bare entire districts, and throwing hundreds of the
poor cottage-holders upon public charity both for
food and shelter. The first took place in the St.
Louis’ suburb, and raged fiercely the whole day,
utterly demolishing house by house, and street by
street, until within a wide area nothing could be
observed but a stack of tall chimneys, grim

CONFLAGRATIONS. 27

charred ruins, that made one melancholy to look
upon. With few exceptions all the houses were
built of wood. This fire doubled in extent that of
the preceding June. Thesecond fire broke out the
morning following in the populous and extensive
suburb known as Boisseauville or St. Sauveur. Its
ravages were more terrible than the other, and
the amount of property involved was greater. In
both instances the great drawback was deficiency of
water.

In a metropolis like Quebec, densely populated
in some parts, and containing numerous old wooden
fabrics that a spark is sufficient to ignite, an effi-
cient fire brigade would appear indispensable. But
there is no such institution. I much doubt whether
there be even a fire-engine. Of this, however, I
am certain, that to the police is entrusted the duty
of extinguishing fires, a feat they seldom succeed
in effecting. The entire organization— nearly com-
posed of habitans—for the wide and numerous dis-
tricts into which the city is divided, does not
exceed t) :( or at most forty men. These are
generally attered in pairs about those localities
considered most in need of their presence. Certainly
they are the most stupid and stultified looking
mortals of their class that it has been my ill fortune
to have encountered in any country through which I
have travelled. They arefar from being a preventive
c 2

2

28 ENGLISH AMERICA.

force; and as to interfering in street quarrels,
which, by the way, are of frequent occurrence,
they consider it the wisest policy to avoid them.
Those districts laid bare by the awful calamities
to which I have referred were not long in becom-
ing re-populated. But, unfortunately, most of the
newly-erected dwellings are likewise of wood,
plastered over, and therefore equally liable to de-
struction as the others. It seems unaccountable
that with a municipal bye-law prohibiting the
further erection of wooden structures, the same
should be suffered without opposition or even
remonstrance on the part of the civic authorities.
The corporation is not free from censure in this
matter; for why pass an enactment for the security
of life and property if they be not prepared to carry
out its conditions? To create laws, and then
connive at their infraction, or administer no punish-
ment to the offenders, betoken a state of things
over which I feel rather inclined to throw a veil.
About the same time such havoc occurred in
Quebec, conflagrations in the neighbouring woods
were prevalent. Owing to this cause, the city for
days was enveloped in dense smoke, giving to it the
aspect of London during a November fog. These
fires rapidly extended to the houses in the settle-
ments, At Cape St. Ignace several barns were
destroyed. Similar ravages took place at St. Denis.

Se ee
Lo

gga? Z fairs foo
> See of
e 3

FETE D’OBLIGATION. 29

Along the line of railroad, as well as on the other
roads contiguous to these fires, it was necessary
for the scattered residents to seek shelter by effect-'
ing their escape, so dense and suffocating was the
smoke. One wood I myself witnessed on fire ten
miles distant from the city. The sharp crackling
of the branches, and the fierce roar of the mad-
dened flames as they crisped round, and shot in
forked curves high above the tallest trees, had a
truly appalling effect.

On the festival of St. Jean-Baptiste, which
occurs*on the twenty-fourth of June, the French
population attempted to get up a “sensation.”
The dreary streets were for a few short hours
galvanised into temporary life. Branches of maple
trees were nailed along the wooden pathways at
the distance of three feet apart, giving an enliven-
ing appearance to the monotonous thoroughfares ;
while sprigs of the same were entwined around the
doors and windows of numerous dwellings. Incom-
memoration of the day, high mass was celebrated at
the Church of St. John, which was decorated with
green branches and any number of flags, the
most imposing being the Union Jack, and British
colours, bearing the Prince of Wales’ plume.
The services having terminated, a lengthy pro-
cession was formed outside the church, consisting
of the St. Jean-Baptiste Society, the pupils of

30 ENGLISH AMERICA. {

the public schools, the students of Laval Univer-
sity and the Seminaries, some trade guilds, and a
‘few militia-men, preceded by a band of music.
Along St. John’s-road, a number of banners
wafted gaily in mid-air. Looking downward
from the church there seemed a vast array of
them. One in particular struck me as being very
conspicuous. It was an immense red flag, bear-
ing large white letters, which I readily construed
to represent some suitable device for the public
yéte. As I approached nearer, however, I was
mortified upon discovering that the banner so
prominently displayed was made the medium of
an advertisement; a certain tradesman thereby
informing the public that he kept a “hay loft!’
Fétes d obligation are of frequent occurrence in
Lower Canada; and are strictly observed as general
holidays by the Catholic population. Of these the
feast of Corpus Christi is perhaps the most im-
portant. On the anniversary of that particular day,
at the solicitation of Baron Boilleau, I accom-
panied him to the French Cathedral, where high
mass was celebrated. Over one hundred priests
and acolytes surrounded the grand altar, which
was one dazzling blaze of light; in itself a
gorgeous specimen of decorative art. These
ministrants were habited in snowy surplices and
purple soutanes, Some of them bore silk banners,

THE FRENCH CATHEDRAL. 31

of red, white, and blue tints, fringed with gold
and otherwise richly embroidered. A number of
youths, tastefully decorated—literally all muslin
and ribbons—carried light ornamental baskets
laden with flowers; while there could not have
been less than two dozen ecclesiastics bearing
censers, which they manipulated in concert with
wonderful dexterity, until the church was dark
with perfumed incense that curled gracefully up
in tinted waves towards the lofty dome. The
diocesan would have been the chief celebrant had
he not been in Rome at the “ canonization,” in
obedience to the command of the Pope; and the
archbishop’s unfortunate mental malady prevented
his attendance. After the religious celebration a
‘‘ procession of the Host” took place within the
walls of the sacred edifice—a ceremony which was
repeated publicly in the streets on the subsequent
Sunday. In the churches of Paris or Italy I have
not witnessed the principal religious rite of the
Roman Church celebrated with such gorgeous
parade; but the music was woefully deficient, and
so was the singing; consequently I came away
grievously disappointed.

This cathedral, called the ‘Church of the
Immaculate Conception,” was consecrated by the
first Bishop of Quebec in 1666. During the siege
in 1759, it was greatly injured by shells discharged

32 ENGLISH AMERICA.

from batteries on Point Levi; so that much of
its ornamentation was destroyed, beside a number
of valuable paintings. Some of the latter, how-
ever, have been restored. These consist of nine
works by Vandyke, Blanohon, Vignon, Restoul,
and Carlo Maratti.

Ever since the year 1787—as far back as the
public records go—a regular ship-building trade
has been carried on in Quebec. From that period
to 1824 inclusive, a cycle of thirty-eight years,
the average number of vessels built annually did
not exceed twenty-four, the highest numbers
being fifty-eight and fifty-four in the years 1788
and 1811 respectively, and the lowest number,
six, in the year 1792.

From the year 1825 to 1861, on the other hand,
the average number of ships built amounted to
about fifty-six annually, the maximum number
being ninety-five in 1855, and the minimum
twenty-four in 1832. The number of vessels
launched during the last decennial period was six
hundred and eighty-two; but during the con-
cluding five years of the decade they merely
amounted to two hundred and eighty-one;
thus exhibiting a considerable decline in this
important branch of trade. The total number
of vessels built at the port of Quebee since
1787 was two thousand nine hundred and

SHIP-BUILDING. 33

thirty-nine, their aggregate measurement reach-
ing 890,201 tons. In March 1862, there were
twenty-six ships on the stocks building under the
inspection of Lloyd’s surveyor. The gross tonnage
of these vessels was 22,330 tons. Theship-building
firms are about fifteen in number. Canadian-
built vessels, now enjoying through the liberality of
the French Government equal privileges with those
of British build, are likely to prove advantageous
to the ship-building interest of Quebec. Indeed,
there is an increase of seven vessels and 3,000
tons in favour of 1862 over the preceding
year.

As early as 1749, when Quebec was the seat
of Western French Empire, ship-building, con-
sidering the capabilities of the place, was carried on
rather extensively. Ships of war had been built
for the French navy, until a prohibition arrived to
discontinue the work, owing to the nature of the
material—the American oak —not being considered
so sound or useful as European timber of a like
description.

The shipping trade of 1862 contrasted most
favourably with that of the four preceding years,
judging from the comparative statement of the im-
ports and exports, and the duties collected. In 1861
the exports amounted to 8,316,322 dollars ; the im-
ports to 6,434,360 dollars; and the duties to
Ct)

34 ENGLISH AMERICA.
494,103 dollars—sums greatly in excess of those
given for the previous periods.

The lumber merchants of Quebec generally
carry on a brisk business during the season ; but
the American war had caused a depression in the
English markets on timber as well as on other ex-
ports, which circumstance, combined with the ex-
cessive quantity of the commodity brought down
from Ottawa; had rendered that branch of
commerce very inactive. A faulty system of
arrangement seems to exist between labourers and
lumber masters, which injuriously operates against
both. At one time the former are glad to earn
from twenty-five to fifty cents. a day, whilst at
another they will demand from one to two dollars
—just as emergency and scarcity of hands arise.

In the suburbs is a habitation called the
‘¢ Hermitage,” which no one can be prevailed
upon to inhabit. Its history is variously told. The
received version is that it was constructed in 1712
by one of the French Intendants, Mons. De Bigot,
as a place of confinement for a fair paramour,—the
wife of Philbert, a Quebec merchant,—who proved
false to her husband and subsequently false to her
seducer. Herein she was confined for life, and
deprived of holding converse with any human
being. Her ghost is supposed still to haunt the
‘“‘ Hermitage.” But this dwelling is not its only re-

>»
~]

!

THE ‘*‘ HERMITAGE.”’ 35

sort, ‘‘when churchyards yawn.” It is also sup-
posed to re-visit the residence of her deserted
spouse; and several persons now living in Quebec
speak confidently of having seen it. The house
referred to is the building occupied as the
General Post Office, an object of curiosity from
the circumstance of a * Chien d Or,” or Golden Dog,
being over the door. It is a gilt figure in relievo,
representing the animal gnawing a bone, under
which, by way of illustration, is the following
doggrel :—

‘¢ Je svis vn chien qvi ronge mon 0s;
En le rongeant je prends mon repos,
Vn jovr viendra qvi n’est pas encore venv,
Ov je mordrai celvi qvi m’avra mordv :”’

Signifying “I am a dog gnawing a bone; in
gnawing I take my repose. The day will come
that I will bite him who has bitten me.” This
device is said to have been invented by the en-
raged husband in testimony of the antipathy
he bore Bigot, so notorious for having made
such exorbitant drafts on the Treasury of France
that one of the French Queens began to suspect
that the walls of Quebec were not metaphorically
but literally built of gold. Tradition gives more
than one account of the Chien d Or as well as of
the “‘ Hermitage,” but it is agreed that the latter

36 ENGLISH AMERICA.

was a woman’s solitary prison where she had been
incarcerated through the jealousy of her seducer,
and that the spirit of the sufferer re-visits the
scene of her earthly sorrows.

ae

SS

ey ek ae

CHAPTER III.

TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES,

Scenic Beauties of Quebec—Falls of Montmorenci—Indian
Village of Lorette—Burning of a Chvrch—Peasant Life—
The Legislative Bodies—The Parliamentary Library. -

THE scenic beauties of this region are in point of
loveliness perhaps unrivalled by any other scenery
in the world. Among the prominent objects of
interest are the Lake St. Charles, the Island of
Orleans,—called the Isle of Bacchus by Jacques
Cartier, from the luxuriant fruits and vines with
which it abounded—dividing the St. Lawrence
into twocurrents, and the cascades of Chaudiére,
Lorette, and Montmorenci. The last is, indeed, a
beauteous cataract, which discharges itself into the
St. Lawrence. Narrowing into a channel of about
forty feet, the Montmorenci river becomes pre-
cipitated over a perpendicular ravine, about two
hundred and fifty-feet, thundering down the dizzy
precipice with such fury as to send up snowy

Inn a a

38 ENGLISH AMERICA.

wreaths of vapour into mid-air, that are ever
varying and assuming fantastic forms, so as to
produce a fascinating effect upon the beholder.
In winter, the spray thus flung upwards
becomes frozen, and forms a solid cone of con-
siderable altitude. When the wind is in a
favourable direction the sound of these waters is
distinctly heard in Quebec, seven miles dis-
tant. A mile or two above the Falls the river
becomes contracted between lofty vertical rocks,
thereby increasing its velocity and forming here
and there cascades of ten or twelve feet in depth.
In this locality may be observed what are fami-
liarly designated the ‘‘ Natural Steps”—a geolo-
gical curiosity. These appear to have been
formed by the attrition of the neighbouring stream,
occasioned by the melting of the snow imparting
to it an augmented rapidity. These steps are so ex-
tensive and regular in their formation as to make
one fancy they were the laboured results of human
art and not the operation of unaided nature.

I made several visits to the delightful Falls
of Montmorenci; not so much for the purpose of
observing the foaming cataract, dashing its snowy
spray almost to the clouds, as of studying French
Canadian peasant life. In few places can this be
seen to greater advantage than along the village
of Beauport, which extends almost the entire

DWELLINGS OF THE: HABITANS. 39

distance from Quebec to Montmorenci. The form
of the cottages, the appearance of the Aaditans, the
decorated crosses on the road side, are truly French.
There is one thing, however, that distinguishes
these people from their Norman ancestors, and
gives to the village of Beauport an aspect not to
be met with in similar districts of France. This
characteristic feature consists in cleanliness, car-
ried almost to an excess. The exterior of the
houses and the door-steps—for a high door be-
comes necessary during winter, when five or six
feet of snow cover the ground—are mostly coloured
white, while the small windows are filled with
flowers, imparting an air of gaiety to the village,
quite charming to behold. Although the farms
are small, they are well kept, and yield an abun-
dant produce. In this region vegetation is very
rapid, so that in two or three weeks after the
snow disappears, the land is covered with verdure,
fruits blossom, and corn and vegetables spring up
without the aid of much human labour.

Once, in driving along the St. Foy road along
with Baron Boilleau and his amiable lady, he di-
rected my attention to a column, not very long
erected, to the memory of General St. Foix, a
French officer, of whose military renown but one
historian, I believe, has made prominent mention.
This column is of iron, and looked very unsightly,

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40 ENGLISH AMERICA,

being partially covered with rust. When Prince
Napoleon was on a visit to Baron Boilleau he was
shown this evidence of French Canadian feeling,
and, I was informed, promised to have a statue
made of St. Foix, with which to surmount the
monument. Nothing further, however, had been
heard about the generous offer up to the time of
my quitting Canada.

Baron Gauldrée Boilleau is a Frenchman, though
not a French Canadian. In Quebec he holds the
office of Consul-General of France. He was
honoured by the present Pope by being made
Commander of the Pontifical Order of St. Gregory
the Great, as a reward for the services he had
rendered to the Church, while discharging the
high functions entrusted to him by the French
Government, in Asia, America, and Europe. Some
few years ago the Baron married Miss Benton,
daughter of the Honourable Thomas Hart Benton,
United States’ Senator, author of ‘ Thirty Years
in the Senate.”” Another daughter of the American
legislator is the wife of General Fremont, of the
Federal States army.

In close proximity to the Falls is a mansion —
built by General Haldimand, once the Governor of
the Lower Province. It was subsequently oc-
cupied by the Duke of Kent, but is at present
held by the proprietor of an adjacent saw mills,

AY

Ay

AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 41

Eighty feet above this Mansion, hanging like a
spider’s web, was once a suspension bridge, the
towers of which only now remain. In the Spring
of 1856 it gave way, burying with it a few people
in the boiling waters below.

Inspired with that restless and sateless curiosity
inherent in most travellers, I was induced to
visit the pretty Indian village known as Lorette,
thrée miles distant to the westward of Quebec.
Here reside the last remnant of the Huron tribe,
with their chief and “‘ Queen.’’ Their residences are
built in the French style, and the whole aspect of
the district is essentially Norman. These Indians
are frugal and industrious in their habits, and live
partially by the manufacture of fancy articles, or
grimcracks, which they sell to visitors, and by the
cultivation of smallfarms. They entirely abstain
from intoxicating liquors; following in this re-
spect the example of their ancestors, who, upon
being converted to christianity, solemnly vowed
never to imbibe strong drinks, the great bane of
their race.

On my arrival I observed a large paper mill on
fire, which had ignited the old Indian church.
Between this church and that of the Santa Casa
at Loretto, in Italy, from which the village takes
its name, there existed, it is said, some resem-

42 ENGLISH AMERICA,

blance. All the rich and elegant priestly vest-
ments, and the sacramental vessels of pure
silver, presented by one of the French Emperors,
were fortunately secured and deposited with the
venerable chief. It was a touching sight to have
observed the squaws and Indians removing their
household effects, including a miscellaneous collec-
tion of furs, snow shoes, etc., lest they should
be destroyed. The roofs of the little wooden
houses, scarcely better than shanties, swarmed
with young Indians of the sterner sex; while
numberless buckets filled with water were handed up
to them by women and children, the contents being
thrown over the roofs, thereby rendering them less
liable toignition. It was useless to have attempted
saving the church, for the flames were so violent
that it was speedily demolished. The stone resi-
dence of the priests adjoining escaped uninjured.

Both the “ King”’ and ‘‘ Queen of the Hurons”
visited London in 1825, for the purpose of urging
some claims on the Government, on which occa-
sion the “‘ Queen” was presented by the Lord Mayor
with a silver medal, of which mark of distinction
she appeared exceedingly proud.

Immediately inside of Prescott gate stands the
Parliament House, a plain, inconvenient building,
erected on the site of the old archiepiscopal palace.

"e@ yw a

=a TM US VY CO wf EK _

THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 43

Upper and Lower Canada return one hundred and
thirty members to the House of Assembly, being
exactly sixty-five for each division of the Province.

Prior to 1854, the Legislative Council, or mem-
bers of the Upper House, were appointed for life
by the Crown. The law rendering this body par-
tially elective, first came into operation in 1855,
when the Province was divided into forty-eight
electoral divisions; twenty-four for Eastern, and
the same number for Western Canada. These
forty-eight sections were again sub-divided into
four classes, when the ballot was drawn of twelve
electoral divisions each. The elections for the
first division took place in 1856; for the second,
in 1858; for the third, in 1860; and for the
fourth, in 1862. A candidate for the Legislative
Council must possess a property qualification of
two thousand pounds, and has either to reside in
the division he represents or else hold an estate in
the country. One-fourth of the members thus
elected retire in succession every two years, but
become legally eligible for re-election, Twenty-
seven members are still in the Council who were
elected by the Crown. By the same act the office
of Speaker is rendered likewise elective. In order
to counterbalance political and personal jealousies,
which are very rife, the speakerships of both
Houses are bestowed alternately upon Upper and

44 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Lower Canadian members; an arrangement
which appears to work well.

The politicians of Canada comprise various
grades, but they are generally classified under six
denominations, viz :—

Blues,—Persons who uphold the doctrine of |
the temporal power of the Roman Church. .

Rouges,—Those who oppose the Church of
Rome on temporal questions.

Tories,—A party almost extinct, but who once
were the supporters of ‘the Old Family Com-
pact.”

Conservatives,—The adherents and admirers
of the J. A. McDonald and Cartier’s administra-
tion and policy.

Hincksite Reformers,—Adherents to the policy
of Baldwin, associated with that of the Grand
Trunk, |

Clear-Grits,—Outré Democrats. These em-
brace every class of politician in Canada, so
far at least as it has been possible for me to
ascertain.

The Premier having rendered me free of both
Houses, I occasionally was accommodated on the
benches while witnessing the proceedings of the
legislative bodies. Ordinary parliamentary busi-
ness was conducted with much gravity, order, and
due dispatch. In the Lower House I was privileged “

to hear an angry debate upon a public question,
on which occasion a great deal of rough oratory
and personal invective was displayed. The
speeches were delivered in French and English;
an awkward arrangement, as many of the mem-
bers are acquainted but with one language. Some
of the English members possess remarkable
natural talent; but the deficiencies in their edu-
cation are easily perceptible.

Parliament was prorogued by Lord Monck
abet the middle of June. The ceremony of
pros. s{ion was somewhat interesting, although,
of cvurse, infinitely inferior to such a sight in the
‘old country.” A guard of honour lined the streets
from Lord Monck’s residence to the House of
Assembly, guns were fired from the platform, and
nothing was omitted that could render the event
imposing.

Quebec returns three members to the provincial
Legislature ; namely, one member for each ward.
It possesses six newspapers, four of which are
English, and two French; viz: the Chronicle,
Gazette, News, Vindicator, Journal, and the
Debate, Of the English journals two are Conserva-
tives, one Radical, and the other Liberal. Both
the French papers advocate the Liberal interest.

And here I shall take the opportunity of giving
an account of the Parliamentary Library.

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 45

sie
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en “ae é
eS ee nin

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46 ENGLISH AMERICA.

During the union of the provinces in 1841, both
Houses of the Canadian Legislature possessed
extensive libraries. These consisted principally
of parliamentary records, works of general history
and jurisprudence, and a rare collection of books
treating of America and Canada. By means of
annual appropriations, these collections had in-
creased in the year 1849 to about ten thousand
volumes in the Legislative Council library, and to
twelve thousand five hundred volumes in that of
the Legislative Assembly. Upon the burning of
the Houses of Parliament, then situated at Mon-
treal, on the 25th of April, 1849, by a riotous
assembly, during a time of high political excite-
ment, both these fine collections were totally de-
stroyed.

On the 3rd July following, the Hon. A. N.
Morin, Speaker of the Lower House, in a letter to
the provincial parliament, thus alludes to this
unfortunate calamity :—“ The loss has fallen not
merely upon the parliament itself, but generally
upon the people of the Province, who, by the
liberality of the members of both Houses, were
permitted access to the books, in default of other
opportunities of literary gratification and research,
there being no other library in Canada, of any
magnitude, to which the public were admitted.”
The Speaker was finally empowered by the Legis-

x

PARLIAMENTARY LIBRARY. 47

lative Assembly, to communicate officially the
grievous loss and deprivation the country had
thereby sustained to the principal representative
bodies in the mother-country and America, as the
existing state of the provincial finances did not,
at the time, warrant any considerable outlay for
its reconstruction. It was suggested that these
individuals should be made acquainted with the
extent of the calamity, and their generous assist-
ance solicited, by sending copies of such of their
journals, statutes, or other printed documents, as
could be spared to form a nucleus for a new
library.

This official application met with a very liberal
response from the Secretary of State for New York ;
Mr. Wynne, of Paternoster Row, London; the
Parliamentary Agent; the Executive Council of
Nova Scotia; and the Rt. Hon. the Speaker of
the British House of Commons. The latter im-
parted a very important aid, having presented a
valuable series of journals and sessional papers of
the House from 1801 to 1848 inclusive, compris-
ing nearly fifteen hundred volumes. ‘ The worth
of this collection,’”’ observes the first Report (2nd
Aug., 1850), ‘‘as a repertory of parliamentary,
historical, and statistical information, can scarcely
be overrated. It will be found of immense utility
to all persons engaged in the business of legisla-

48 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tion, or who may have occasion to refer to the
origin and progress of those great questions which
have occupied the attention of the British parlia-
ment within the last half century.”

The appeal of the Canadian parliament to
legislative and other representative bodies in
foreign countries was not without precedent. In
1834, when the building wherein the sittings of
the British parliament were held was destroyed
by fire, entailing the additional loss of the libraries,
a similar munificence was evinced by the Cham-
bers of Peers and Deputies of France. These dis-
tinguished bodies transmitted to our Lords and
Commons splendid sets of their journals and other
official publications, together with many valuable
works of a general character.

On the 3rd June, 1850, a standing committee
of seven members was appointed to assist the
Speaker in the reconstruction of the library, among
whom was the late Sir Allan Mac Nab. A joint
library for both Houses was finally recommended,
and acceded to by the Legislative Council, who
appointed four members on the part of that House
to augment and assist the standing committee.
A second report was presented on the 9th of the
same month, when the sum of two thousand
pounds was voted in aid of the national project.
Up to 1854 the library had again increased to

RECONSTRUCTION OF THE LIBRARY. 49

nearly seventeen thousand volumes, when, unfor-
tunately, a second disaster occurred, by the acci~
dental destruction of the Legislative Buildings in
Quebec, on the !st February of that yea. This
time, however, the loss was not very severe.
About nine thousand volumes were: saved from
the conflagration ; while the value of the remainder
was obtained from various Insurance Companies
—assurances having been effected upon the entire
collection, previous to the fire.

With the sum of money thus obtained, together
with increased pecuniary assistance provided by
the legislature, Mr. Todd, the librarian of the
Legislative Assembly, was despatched to Europe
during the ensuing year. His mission was not
altogether confined to the purchasing of books
towards again reconstructing the library, but had
for its object a wider field. He was also instructed
to solicit from the governments of England and
France donations towards that desirable object.
In the prosecution of this onerous and delicate
enterprise Mr. Todd was eminently successful.
The library speedily assumed an aspect very su-
perior to that it had presented at any previous
period. It now contains upwards of fifty thou-
sand volumes in every department of literature.
Some of the books are extremely rare and costly,
such as Audobon’s “ Birds of America,” five octavo
VOL. I. D

50 ENGLISH AMERICA.

volumes, with four volumes of large folio plates,
which cost 1200 dollars; a splendid copy of Dug-
dale’s ‘“‘Monasticon Anglicanum,” the “ Acta
Sanctorum,” fifty-four volumes, in vellum; and
a fine collection of the Antiquities of Italy, etc.

One excellent feature of this superb collection
consists in its being accessible throughout the
year, and especially when parliament is not in
session, to the respectable portion of the com- '
munity. So far, it is essentially a public library,
for the use and benefit of all literary persons in
Canada, who possess the time and opportunity to
avail themselves of its advantages. It comprises
the best modern standard works in theology,
history, metaphysics, science, and the arts, law,
politics, political economy, and belles-lettres. All
new publications of interest are added to the
collection as soon as published. The library,
moreover, embraces an extensive series of works
on Canadian history, including a considerable
number of MSS. obtained at no small labour
and expense, illustrative of the early history of
the Province. Additions are annually made to
these, so that the future historian of Canada
will have no reason to complain of a deficiency of
material.

The ponderous assemblage of books is for the
present rather incommodiously placed in the

vr

LIBRARY AT OTTAWA, §1

temporary buildings used for the legislature dur-
ing their sojourn

Indeed, some
had to be transferred

52 ENGLISH AMERICA.

CHAPTER IV.

MINISTERIAL CRISIS.

The New Canadian Cabinet—Sketches of its Members—Finan-
cial Position of the Province—Policy of the Administration.

SHORTLY after my arrival in Quebec, I found con-
siderable political excitement prevailing among
the people. This was occasioned in consequence
of the old coalition government having resigned
office upon being defeated in their project to carry
the militia bill through the Legislative Assembly.
A new administration was accordingly appointed
by His Excellency the Governor-General, consist-
ing of the following members :—

Premier and Attorney-General, West.—Hon. J. SANDFIELD
MACDONALD.

Attorney-General, East.—Hon. L. V. SICOTTE.

Receiver-General.—Hon. JAMES MORRIS.

Provincial Secretary.—Hon. A. A. DoRION.

Postmaster-General.—Hon. M. H. Fo.ry.

Commissioner of Crown Lands.—Hon. W. M’DOUGALL,

Minister of Finance.—Hon. W. P. HOWLAND.

Commissioner of Public Works.—Hon. U. J. TESSIER.

President Executive Council.—Hon. T, D. M’GEE.

Minister of Agriculture and Statistics—Hon. FRANCIS
EVANTUREL.

Solicitor-General, West.—Hon, ADAM WILSON,

Solicitor-General, East.—Hon, J. ABROTT,

cIs

a as

¥

SKETCHES OF THE CABINET. 53

And here it will be pertinent to subjoin a brief
memoir of these politicians, more particularly as
the majority of them belong, either directly or in-
directly, to Great Britain.

THE HON. JOHN SANDFIELD MACDONALD, Q.C.

The estimable subject of my sketch, was born at
St. Raphael, county of Glengarry, Upper Canada,
in December, 1812. His early history is not
devoid of romantic adventure, interspersed with
a dash of wilfulness. At the early age of eleven he
became a fugitive from his father’s house. While
attempting to escape far beyond parental con-
trol, he was discovered just in time to prevent him
from carrying out his intention. However, upon
being brought home, he played the truant again,
but this time with more success. Having wan-
dered for a long distance, he was compelled by
necessity to article himself to a store-keeper, at a
small remuneration. After two or three years
passed in this manner, his judgment ripened, and
he began to feel the indignity of his position;
events which one or two humiliating incidents
seem to have effected. Finally, he suddenly
threw up serving in a store, and decided upon
studying law—a resolution to which his present
high station is entirely attributable. Thus do
great events spring from trivial causes.

ea —_— See eee . a
a . — 7
SS EIA TI AOA ar 5B a stat aaeenees
mie ee ereeenenanens ae nt ran ae —— 3 :

54 ENGLISH AMERICA.
@

In 1832, Mr. Macdonald studied law under the
tuition of Dr. Urquhart. At the termination of
two years he made such proficiency that at the
competitive examination he took precedence of all
his class-mates. He was called to the bar in
June, 1840, having previously practised as an
attorney,—an usual occurrence in Canada. His
high reputation quickly obtained for him lucrative
and increasing practice as an advocate. In
March, 1841, he was elected to serve in parlia-
ment, and not long since was the only member in
the House of Assembly who had sat since the
union of the provinces. Lord Sydenham had
been sent from England to carry the Union into
effect, and with that view many of the Lower
Canadian elections, where the constituents had
been opposed to the measure, were gained by
violence. Mr. Cuvillier, the nominee of the
government, was then elected speaker in opposi-
tion to Sir Allan MacNab. In Canada, a speaker
seldom retains his seat in that capacity beyond
one session. Every new House of Assembly
elects its own speaker, so that there are often
several ex-speakers in the prime of political life
who return to the floor of the House.

The government at this time was composed of
politicians whose differences were irreconcilable.
Nor was the legislature itself free from placemen.

HON. J. 8S. MACDWNALD. 55

Heads of departments were not presided over by
representatives of the people in whom some con-
fidence may be reposed. In 1839, Lord John
Russell forwarded a despatch in which the
alternative of either supporting the government or
retiring from office was proposed to those who had
seats in either branch of the legislature. The
manner in which the Union had been forced upon
Lower Canada caused many representatives to
join the Opposition ranks. Mr. Macdonald,
although disagreeing with the government, being
an Upper Canadian, could not sympathise wiih
Sir Allan MacNab, the Opposition leader of that
section of the country. The rebellion, of which
the effects had scarcely passed away, had reduced
everything to a question of loyalty, especially in

that portion of Central Canada which Mr. Mac-

donald happened to represent. His position was
delicate and peculiar. In conjunction with the
Conservatives of Upper and the Opposition of
Lower Canada, he voted against the government,
but he never attended a party meeting and had
no intimate alliance with members of the Opposi-
tion.

During the first session of that parliament re-
solutions were passed establishing responsible
government. With evident reluctance, but os-
tensible good grace, Lord Sydenham accepted the

56 ENGLISH AMERICA.

principle. So adroitly were the preliminaries
managed, that some of the resolutions proposed
in the House were framed so as to make it appear
as if the principle of executive responsibility had
actually emanated from the government itself.
The doctrines thus founded were attempted to
be subverted by Sir Charles Metcalfe in 1843, and
the elections that ensued turned upon a contest
between the Governor-General and the late
Council.

In this contest Mr. Macdonald espoused the
cause of the ex-ministers; rather a perilous ex-
periment among the Highlanders of Glengarry,
so remarkable for their loyalty. Singular to
say, at the hustings he was returned by a
larger majority than before. During the vears
1848, 1852, and 1854 he was elected without a
contest to represent his old constituency. In 1849
he was appointed Solicitor-General, under what
is known as the Lafontaine-Ba!dwin government,
which important post he filled until the autumn
of 1851, when that ministry became dissolved.
The following year tie was elected Speaker, and
maintained that position till the political rupture
of 1854. In 1858 he was raised to the rank of
Attorney-General in the Brown-Dorion cabinet.
Until within a comparatively short time Mr.
Macdonald had been connected with the Opposition,

HON. J. S. MACDONALD. 57

when he abandoned the ‘ clear-grit party’ and
became an ‘independent member.’

Although an Upper Canadian, Mr. Macdonald
has persistently opposed the doctrine of repre-
sentation by population; and notwithstand-
ing being a Roman Catholic, has resisted the
separate school system—a policy that has rendered
him very unpopular with the priests, who have
recommended from the altar that electors should
give their suffrages to Protestant candidates in
preference to him. The Highlanders, however,
discarded the admonition and re-elected their old
representative, who, he has assured me, never so
much as issued an address to his constituents,
Of the eighteen thousand inhabitants of Glen-
garry county, nineteen-twentieths are of Highland
Scotch extraction. Among these there were at
the time of the last census more than three thou-
sand three hundred Macdonalds, all of whom
speak Gaelic.

In 1840 Mr. Macdonald marriled a lady from
Louisiana, the daughter of a Senator of the
United States, who owned an extensive plantation,
but who was,in 1843, unhappily shot in a duel. The
Premier is of spare build, rather tall, and of the
nervous type. His face is pale, but his brow is
expansive and intellectual. Except to particular
friends he is seldom very communicative, neither

D 5

58 ENGLISH AMERICA.

does he shine as aspeaker. His many amiable and
excellent qualities, however, more than atone for
these slight natural deficiencies.

The other members of the government fairly
represented the mixed population of the country.
Four of them, Messrs. Sicotte, Dorion, Tessier,
and Evanturel, are French Canadians ; Mr. Abbott
is an Englishman; Messrs. McDougall, Wilson,
and Morris are Scotch; Mr. Howland is of American
birth; Messrs. M’Gee and Foley are Irish, the
former being a Roman Catholic and the latter a
Protestant. A few words in relation to each of
these will not be irrelevant.

THE HON. LOUIS VICTOR SICOTTE.

This gentleman, who ranked as the Lower
Canadian leader in the administration, is by birth
connected with the French part of the Province.
Like most of his colleagues he is a lawyer; and
in consequence of the radical difference between
the two systems of civil law existing in Upper
and Lower Canada, he is the French Attorney-
General, as Mr. Macdonald is the English. These
gentlemen, now close coadjutors, were at one time
placed in a curious position of rivalry by party
exigencies. In 1854 both were candidates for the
speakership, and the ministry of that day, headed
by Mr. Hincks, unexpectedly cast their votes for

HON. L. V. SICOTTE. 59

Mr. Sicotte, the younger member, and the candi-
date of the regular Opposition, in order to defeat.
Mr. Macdonald, the independent candidate. The
consequence was, that Mr. Sicotte was elected,
who continued to discharge the duties of his office
until the dissolution, in 1857, with universal
satisfaction. His grave and dignified demeanour
well fitted him for presiding over a popular
assembly; and his friends allude with pride to
the fact that never once was there an appeal from
his decisions in the chair. In 1858 he was for a
few months Commissioner of Crown Lands, but
retired from that position, being unable to agree
with his colleagues on several points of their
policy.

THE HON. ANTONIE ARINE DORION

Is the least known of French Canadian poli-
ticians. Some twenty years ago, being then a
young man just out of one of those rural colleges
with which Lower Canada abounds, he attached
himself devotedly to the returned exile, Lewis
Joseph Papineau, who still lives, at an advanced
age, on his estate on the Ottawa River. Papineau’s .
conversational gifts, no less than the halo of
‘martyrdom’ with which he was invested, gave
him immense power with the young doctrinaires
of Montreal and Quebec, many of whom were full

60 ENGLISH AMERICA.

of promise, but few have ripened into influence or
authority save the subject of this sketch. Mr.
Dorion was elected for Montreal, in 1854, with
Messrs. Young and Halton; in 1857, with Messrs.
M’Gee and Rose; again in 1858, after the crisis
of that session; but in 1861 was left in a small
minority by ex-Attorney-General Cartier. He
has long been regarded as the leader of the
Liberal portion of the French Canadians; and
although temporarily without a seat in the House,
his assistance was considered indispensable by Mr.
Sicotte, in order to command in the legislature a
Lower Canada majority.

THE OTHER FRENCH CANADIANS

Consisted of the Hon. Messrs. Tessier and Evan-
tural, both of whom belong to Quebec. The former
represents in the Upper House the division of the
Gulf, and holds in the ministry the portfolio of
Public Works. The latter, who is the son of an
old soldier of Napoleon’s wars, sits for the
adjoining county, and is charged with the
department of Agriculture.

THE LOWER CANADIAN SIX

Were completed by Mr. J. J. G. Abbott, a Mon-
treal lawyer of high standing, and Mr. Thomas
D’Arcy M’Gee, whose name is, perhaps, more

a

HON. T. D. M’GEE, 61

generally known out of Canada than that of any
other member of the ministry. Of Mr. Abbott,
who had but recently entered public life, little of
interest can be stated ; but of Mr. McGee’s career,
which has been an eventful and chequered one,
many curious circumstances are related both by
the honourable gentleman himself and by others,
One thing is certain that he never disguises his
opinions or antecedents.

THE HONOURABLE THOMAS D’ARCY M’GER

Is a native of Carlingford, in the north of Ireland,
and at the time of his appointment had but just
attained his thirty-seventh year. At the early
age of seventeen he left school and migrated to
America without the consent of his family, land-
ing at the desolate port of Quebec, a wild adven-
turous boy, rich only in goldin thoughts and
aspirations, just twenty years to the day in which
he was sworn in by Lord Monck, as President of
the Executive Council.

He followed the stream of the Irish exodus to
the United States, and before he was twenty years
old edited a weekly newspaper at Boston. Subse-
quently he returned to Ireland ai the invitation of
the proprietor of a Dublin journal, and in 1848
became compromised, or at least suspected, as a
‘young Irelander.’ His rebellious prose and verse

MD
it

SAR
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62 ENGLISH AMERICA.

were as bitter and as juvenile as most of his party.
He had not reached his twenty-third year, when
he made his second unwilling exit from Irish
ground. Though he returned to the United States
deeply tinctured with the revolutionary iceas of his
school, he soon became disenchanted of democracy
as exhibited in New York, strictly refraining from
becoming a ‘citizen,’ or mixing in the party
politics of the Republic. He visited Canada in
1854, and during subsequent years, when he made
many personal friends. finally, in 1857, he took
up his abode permanently in Montreal, for which
city he was elected during the same year, and has
since been twice or thrice re-elected by acclama-
tion. Mr. M’Gee bears a high reputation as an
orator and a debater ; to which gifts, as well as to
.his fine social qualities, he, inalarge degree, may
attribute his position.

THE HONOURABLE MICHAEL HAMILTON FOLEY

Is a native of Tuam, but not of the fold of “ the
lion of the tribe of Judah.” His youth and man~
hood have been entirely spent in Western Canada,
where his personal popularity exceeds that, perhaps,
of any of his colleagues in the ministry. In 1854
he was elected for North Waterloo, an Anglo-
Dutch constituency, which has ever since ad-
hered to him with proverbial constancy. During

63

HON. MESSRS. FOLEY AND MCDOUGALL.

the crisis of 1848 he held the office of Post-
master-General, which honour has been again
conferred on him. Asa practical man of business
he is well qualified to discharge the onerous and
important duties inseparable from such a posi-
tion.

THE HONOURABLE WILLIAM MCDOUGALL,

A Highland Celt by descent, was born in the
county of York, Canada West, and like the
majority of his colleagues, is under forty years of
age. Having edited for a length of time a very
able party journal, entitled the North American,
he rendered his name familiar in connection with
the press. Since 1858 he has represented South
Oxford in the provincial parliament. Although
not possessing in debate-the readiness of Foley or
the reputation of M’Gee, he is invariably listened
to with respect, from the strong vein of common
sense, and the accurate and abundant sources of
information, that characterise his addresses.

THE HONOURABLE WILLIAM PEARCE HOWLAND.

This member of the cabinet has sat in Parlia-
ment since 1857 for one of the Ridings of York,
adjoining Toronto. He is of American origin, I
believe of American birth ; and belongs to an old
Quaker family. As a miller and corn merchant

64 ENGLISH AMERICA.

he is prominently connected with one of the most
extensive and reputable firms in Toronto. For
many years he has been President of the Toronto
Board of Trade. Notwithstanding a singularly
quiet and rather valetudinary look, he is said to
possess in a high ‘egree the application and
energy necessary to his office as Finance Minister.

THE HONOURABLE ADAM WILSON,

Solicitor-General, West, is a Scotchman, a lawyer
of repute, and a resident of Toronto. He was first
elected to parliament about the end of 1859, and
has ever since represented North York. At
previous elections he twice contested Toronto with
Mr. Robinson unsuccessfully, but retained his
rural constituency. He ranks asa Queen’s Coun-
sel, and holds a very leading and lucrative position
in his profession.

Such, so far as I could learn, are the antecedents
of the ministry who composed what is termed the
Mc’Donald-Sicotte administration. Since my re-
turn to England, however, a few changes have
been instituted, some of them unimportant, owing
to further political complications having produced
a partial disruption of the government.

The Macdonald-Cartier ministry had held office
through many vicissitudes, for about eight years,
with the exception of the short prelude when the

HON, ADAM WILSON. 65

Brown-Dorion administration were in power,—a
period of two days. In July, 1858, the ministry were
defeated relative to carrying out the Queen’s decision
respecting the removal of the seat of Government
to Ottawa. The Brown-Dorion cabinet was there-
upon hastily formed, when it received a vote of
want of confidence in both Houses of the legisla-
ture. Although having held office for several
years, the John A. McDonald administration was
continually changing some of its members. It
was composed of coalition after coalition; and
while avowedly Conservative, failed to satisfy the
demands and desires of that particular class. The
public, of all shades of political opinion, had, I
apprehend, grown thoroughly tired of their rulers,
and became desirous of a change, were it even
from bad to worse. With aperiodically diminish-
ing revenue, it exercised no economy or foresight,
while flagrant abuses were suffered to exist, for
which no one seemed responsible.

The “ Report of the Select Standing Committee on
Public Accounts” printed, shortly after the change
of ministry, by order of the Legislative Assembly, :
presents the financial position of the Province in
a very serious aspect; while the recklessness,
fraud, and jobbery it exposes, one would suppose
almost beyond credence. With a public debt in
outstanding debentures amounting to nearly sixty-

66 ENGLISH AMERICA.

six million dollars, the deficit in the revenue had
approached during four years to close upon five
and a half millions. According to Mr. Galt,
the late Finance Minister’s report, this deficit
has been as follows, omitting the cents :—

Dollars.
In 1858 . ° . . 2,535,610
In 1859 . . ° ° 451,979
In 1860 - - - - 768,793
In 1861 - . . ° 1,476,868

Total . 5,233,250

Moreover, the public offices appear to have
been imperfectly organized. Irresponsible per-
sons in departments, were in the habit of giving
orders for stationery, and other supplies, without
ascertaining the cost. For these articles, the
most fabulous prices would be charged, the money
paid, and yet no certificates could be produced to
show that the goods had been received by the
various bureaus.

Sometimes, in the collection of customs duties,
so carelessly had supervision been exercised, that
the amount expended was actually in excess of that
received. For example, at Dunville, the charges
upon collecting 1942 dols. 75 cents amounted to
1973 dols. 12 cents, or 30 dols. 47 cents more than
the sum collected; and yet no satisfactory reason
could be assigned for this anomaly. The new
administration evidently assumed the reins of

¥

DEPARTMENTAL MISMANAGEMENT, 67

office under very trying circumstances. <A few of
its members, it is true, have had little or no ex-
perience; but those who did not hold office in
i previous governments were considered to be en-
j dowed with fair natural ability and respectable
administrative sense. A statesman, in the Eu-
ropean signification of the term, Canada cannot
boast of; nor is it likely that she will possess
such a desideratum for many years to come.

The Quebec Chronicle, then the ministerial organ,
in dilating upon the financial position of the
, Province, boldly averred that the time was not far
distant when resort must be had to other sources
of revenue than the customs duty upon imports
and the sale of Crown lands. But direct taxation in
any form is as repulsive to the Canadian as to the
American mind. Although such a contingency
is not improbable, and for many reasons would
be desirable, it must be a strong government
who would peril their existence by having re-
course to such an alternative. How Mr. How-
land, the Finance Minister, is to relieve the coun-
try of the heavy burden of debt under which it
groans, remains to be seen. The retrenchment or
‘¢ cheese-paring”’ policy, as it was termed, initiated
by the cabinet, did not appear calculated to restore
the necessary equilibrium to this over-poised de-
pendency of the British Crown.

68 . ENGLISH AMERICA.

The gross receipts for the financial year 1861-2
were 12,655,581 dollars. This amount, however,
included 2,764,002 dols. received for debentures,
and a further sum of 934,048 dols. on account of
special funds, which are fluctuating, and in this
instance unusually large. A reduction of the gross
aggregate to about 9,500,000 dols. was, therefore,
strictly produced by these two items. The total
expenditure of the Province amounted to 14,742,834
dols., to meet which the Financial Minister had a
revenue of merely 9,500,000 dols., leaving him a
ponderous deficit of 5,200,000 dollars. Mr. Galt,
the predecessor of Mr. Howland, a very able and
distinguished statesman, was fully aware of the
difficulty under which the country laboured. His
shrewd and capacious mind readily perceived that
the ordinary sources of revenue —in some instances
exhibiting an average loss of twenty-six per cent.
—did not keep pace with the necessarily large
and growing expenditure of the Province. With
the view of replenishing, even but partially, an
exhausted exchequer, and of providing for the
increasing outlay consequent upon the develop-
ment of the country having created fresh demands
upon the administrative functions of the govern-
ment, this financier meditated a few fresh sources
of permanent revenue, so as to augment the fiscal
receipts by two millions of dollars.

AN EXHAUSTED EXCHEQUER. 69

On introducing the Budget of 1862, in Committee
of Ways and Means, Mr. Galt, in an elaborate and
exhaustive speech, clearly pourtrayed the pecu-
niary embarrassments under which he officially
laboured. He, therefore, proposed a few additional
sources of permanent revenue, such as the aug-
mentation of the tariff duties on tea, coffee, sugar,
molasses, rectified spirits, beer, tobacco, etc.; to-
gether with the institution of astamp duty. These
imposts he considered would create no dissatisfac-
tion or raise any opposition in the minds of the
people, who would not thereby be taxed per head
more than they had been five years previously.
The philosophical and statesman-like views enter-
tained on fiscal legislation by this eminent and
well-known financier, may be gathered from the
following passage in the address to which reference
has been made :—

‘In establishing,” observes Mr. Galt, ‘ the
taxation of a country, it is desirable that we
should endeavour to avoid as much as possible
anything approaching to class legislation; that
we should distribute the burdens on the members
of the community as equably as possible, and that
we should not offer any inducements or advan-
tages to one class of our fellow-subjccts over
another. It is desirable, in considering the prin-
ciples of taxation,,that we should take those taxes

ne snpcenpe et CCU: Ot OC O T

70 ENGLISH AMERICA.

which can be most readily collected, which are
least likely to run counter to the moral sense of
the vommunity, and which can be collected at the
least expense.” These sentiments are fair, just,
and every way creditable to a leading statesman.

How Mr. Galt’s successor in office intends to
place the provincial exchequer permanently beyond
such casualties as the fluctuations of special
revenue, the sale of debentures, and receipts from
trust funds, is a problem Icannotsolve. It must
have been a source of much painful anxiety to
Mr. Howland and his colleagues that there should
have existed a ponderous deficit in the revenue just
at the time of their taking office. To remedy
this state of things was, doubtless, a Herculean
task, but one nevertheless that demanded to be
resolutely undertaken. <A deficit of over five
millions of dollars, and the possibility of having
to levy new imposts, were the remorseless Furies
that incessantly pursued the financial Orestes.
Accordingly one night, shortly after his induc-
tion into office, Mr. Howland sent down to the
House of Assembly the following amended resolu-
tion upon the Tariff :-—

“ That it is expedient, in addition to the ad valorem duties of
customs on the following articles, that specific duties be levied as
follows :—Coffee, 3 cents. per Ib, ; ni ig 5 cents. per gal-
lon; raw sugar, 2 cents. per Ib. ; refined sugar, 3 cents, por Ib. ;
confectionery, 3 cents. per lb.; that the duty on tea now im-

NEW IMPOSTS. - 71

posed by the sliding scale be repealed, and that a specific duty
of 4 cents. and an ad valorem of 15 per cent. be levied in lieu
thereof; that in lieu of a specific duty, 18 per cents. per gallon
on whiskey and 25 cents. on rectified spirits be imposed ; that
a duty of 10 cents. per gallon be imposed upon kerosene, coal
and petroleum oil, distilled or refined; that scrap, brass and
drain tiles, and articles for regimental mess, be added to the
free list.

‘That it is expedient to increase the duty on spirits and beer
distilled and brewed in the province, and on the licences of dis-
tillers, rectifiers, and brewers; that it is expedient that the
additional duty on spirits distilled and made in the province be
9 cents. per wine gallon of strength proof, and so in proportion
for greater or less strength than that proved by Sykes’s hydro-
meter; that it is expedient that the additional duty on beer be
three cents. per wine gallon, and the said additional duty shall
take effect on and after such day as the Governor in Council
shall, by proclamation, direct. That it is expedient that the
additional duty on licences of distillers or rectifiers by any
process other that filtration, to 160 dols., making a total duty
of 200 dols. ; on licences of distillers or rectifiers by filtration
only, 60 dols.—making the total duty 100 dols.; on the licences
of rectifiers by filtration, not being distillers, 60 dels., making
a total duty of 100 dols. ; on licences of brewers, 50 dols., mak-
ing a total duty of 60 dols.—said additional duties to be payable
on the next renewal of existing licences or upon taking out any
new licence,”’

Thus a system of taxation was initiated that
may have to be considerably extended. Indeed, the
British Whig, a journal published in Kingston,
Canada West, advocated the adoption of direct
taxation in order to meet the necessary expendi-
ture of the Province, and keep faith with public
creditors, among whom is Great Britain herself,
since she has guaranteed the four per cent. loans.
It stated that Canadians were ever talking about
their loyalty, but never doing anything to show
it; and then recommended that two millions of

72 ENGLISH AMERICA.

dollars should be added to the county assessment
and gathered directly from the people; the levy
to be in proportion to each taxpayer’s means.
This journal further denounced the policy of the
Province in having created and constantly aug-
mented the tariff on British manufactures, ob-
serving :— }

“Two millions of dollars taken off annually
from the duties on British manufactures would
be a material relief to the grumbling folks at
home, and two millions of dollars added to the
county assessments would be a mere bagatelle for
two millions and a half of people to pay. Were
Canada to do this instead of prating about
loyalty and shouting out ‘God Save the Queen’
at every opportunity, she would then be acting,
and a better feeling would soon manifest itself.
The only possible use that Canada can be to the
British Empire is as a field for the introduction
of her manufactures ; and were they admitted into
the Province at a low, instead of a high duty, they

would soon find their way all over this wide con- .

tinent, This should be the true policy of
Canada,”

It is to be hoped that these suggestions may be
duly weighed by the legislature and the govern-
ment, for they seem to be pre-eminently worthy
of attention,

(

REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. 73

It may not beconsidered superfluous to acquaint
the general reader from what scources the pro-
vincial revenue is derived. I therefore annex a
concise statement of the

REVENUE FOR 1862.

Dollars,

Customs, deducting loss . ‘ ‘ ° ° . 8,840,746

Excise. . ° ‘ ‘ ‘ . . . 402,404
Various items, including Post-office, Public works, In-

vestments, Special Revenues, etc. . . . 3,131,900

Total ° ‘ . 7,375,050

The expenditure of the Province is generally
under ten millions of dollars annually; but as
1862 proved an exceptional year, the revenue was
less than ordinary by nearly a million of dollars.

In 1861 the public debt of the country
amounted to over fifty-eight millions of dollars, or
about twenty-three dollars per head of the popy-
lation ; being considerably less than for the three
preceding years.

This, of itself, is a favourable omen, inasmuch
as it shows that the proportion of debt per head
of the population has somewhat diminished. In
1861 the interest on the public debt was
3,286,457 dollars ; the amount when distributed
amongst each individual of the population being
one dol. thirty-one cents—a proportion less by three
cents per head than in 1858. The ordinary ex-
VOL. I E

74 ENGLISH AMERICA.

penditure of the Province during the latter period
was 8,939,809 dollars, being three dols. ninety-
five cents. per head, while in the former year,
1861, the expenditure amounted to 9,318,180
dollars, or three dols. seventy-one cents. per head,
for precisely similar purposes. This saving of
twenty-four cents per head, on a population of
2,507,657, is equal to 601,837 dols., 68 cents.

Notwithstanding the financial embarrassment
under which Canada laboured during 1862, the
country has been gradually increasing in popula-
tion, wealth, and productiveness. In these re-
spects, comprising a period of nine years, she has
exhibited a very successful career, so much so as
to inspire well-grounded expectations of a highly
prosperous future. <A few statistical details, for
which I am partially indebted to the Census
Returns, will place this assertion beyond dis-
pute.

In 1852 the population of Canada West was
952,004, while in 1861 it reached 1,396,091 ;
showing an increase of over forty-six per cent.
During the same period the population of Canada
East was 890,261 and 1,111,566 respectively ;
giving an increase of twenty-five per cent. for
that comparatively unprogressive division of the
Province.

Moreover, the lands held in Upper Canada

in 1852 amounted in acres to 9,825,915, and

PROSPERITY oF THE PROVINOE, 7

those under actual ¢
in 186] there was

rty-five and
In Lower Canada the

q three-fourths per cent,

contrast between these two Periods is, of course,
not so striking, but we have a considerable in-

crease nevertheless, The lands held in 1859 were
8,113,408 acres, while in 186] t
10,223,959 acres,

Ie cena

and the value of li
four millions of dollars -

of dollars,

tics of wheat and other ce- bai
reals demonstrate more unerringly than any at
criterion the affluence and

try. In thig Tespect the Pr
ing results, Comp
Canada exhibits an
in case of Wheat, an
other grain; go

E 2

76 ENGLISH AMERICA.

grain are now grown where but one bushel was
raised a few years ago. Jn Lower Canada, for the
same periods, there is an increase of sixteen per
cent. for wheat, and of nearly one hundred per
cent. for other cereals—a remarkable result, con-
sidering the peculiar character and habits of the
people.

Canada presents unusual facilities for the
growth of flax, the general cultivation of which,
by and bye, will greatly augment the resources
of the country. Farmers are now directing their
attention to this staple; for in this product
there has been an increase in Upper Canada from
59,680lbs. in 1852 to 1,225,937Ibs. in 1862—
nearly two thousand per cent. In Lower Canada
the product was 145,755lbs. in 1852 against
976,495lbs. in 1861; or an excess of nearly six
hundred per cent.

These details are important, inasmuch as they
prove that Canada, taken as a whole, although
experiencing temporary financial pressure, is ad-
vancing with mighty strides in her glorious path
of progress.

That ‘a new broom sweeps clean’ is » popular
and trite apothegm; so ‘he Canadian adminis-
tration speedily commenced clearing out the foul
Augean stable left by ti:eir predecessors, with an
unsparing, almost a relentless hand. ‘ Retrench-

‘RETRENCHMENT’ POLICY. 77
ment’ seemed the order of the day. Indeed the
adoption of this principle became one of the
strongest claims they possessed to public confi-
dence and support. Hence the pruning knife
was brought into rigorous requisition; and use-
less or cumbersome branches were felled from
the departmental tree. Superabundant employés
were daily dismissed from the various public
offices; and some cases seemed not only cruel,
but almost bordering upon injustice. By the
‘snuffing out’ of one hundred and fifty pound
clerks, a saving of eight thousand dollars in
the Militia Department alone was said to have
been effected. Still, all this cheese-paring
economy would go but a small way towards
making up a deficiency of five millions of dollars.
Some journals were disaffected enough to avow
want of comfidence ia the administration, and
even to hint that the retrenchments then effect-
ing were but temporary, and that, ultimately,
one class of officials would be replaced by another.
This, however, I cannot believe, judging from the
character of those who held power. Having had
the pleasure of intimate acquaintance with several
members of the cabinet, my impression is that
their intentions were honourable, and that they
meant to retrench earnestly, until the finances of
the Province were placed on asecurer basis. The

orcs

cane tomo

=

ETS

a ee
a

CN OE AAEM ROR
DONE ae -
= ee ea

io ioe ae
cg — aethiops
“ :

78 ENGLISH AMERICA,

previous government had left the country in a
woeful position. There seems to have been a wil-
ful and prodigal waste of the public funds; and
when the burden of debt became so excessive, and
the revenue so deficient, to restore the Province to
a state of financial equilibrium necessitated a
labour almost as formidable as that of bringing
order out of chaos, or of draining the ocean dry.
The example set bv the Attorney-General,
West, was assiduously imitated by his col-
leagues in the government. A clear gain of two
thousand dollars a year was said to have been ef-
fected by the Postmaster-General, in dispensing
with the services of one inspector, who, during
the five years he was postmaster at Montreal,
through his mismanagement, suffered that de-
partment to get into arrears of over five thousand
dollars. In 1860 an investigation took place into
he afiairs of the office, and Dr. Meilleur was re-
moved. Notwithstanding that he avowed his
inability to refund the amount of arrears, and
that the direction of the Post-office gave anything
but satisfaction, he was elevated to the dignity of
Post-Office Inspector. It was stipulated, how-
ever, as one of the conditions of his appointment
to the inspectorship, that he should not discharge
any of its duties! The secretary of the depart-
ment was deputed to do the doctor’s work, so the

a EH tien

PURGING THE DEPARTMENTS. 79

latter had but to draw his stipend—a pleasant sort
of sinecure, certainly. I mention this circumstance
as illustrative of the recklessness of the former
administration, who were as remarkable for their
prodigality as their successors became for their
parsimoniousness. :

Then again, the Commissioner of Crown
Lands, who only commenced the work of re-
trenchment, had in a short time caused a saving
to the Province of several thousand dollars per
annum, by dispensing with the services of super-
fluous officials. The Finance Minister also had
retrenched to the extent of fourteen thousand
dollars annually ; and it was confidently expected
that before he had ceased applying the pruning
knife that sum would be at least quadrupled.
This wholesale, if not wholesome, reform was
carried even to the Court of Queen’s Bench of
Upper Canada. The Clerk of the Court receives a
salary of eight hundred pounds a year, and his
duties had hitherto been delegated to super-
numeraries, employed and paid by the Province.
These the Premier had ordered to be discharged
or else renumerated by the Clerk of the Court out
of his income. The result has been a positive
saving to the public revenue of three thousand
dollars annually.

In the Court of Common Pleas a similar policy

80 ENGLISH AMERICA.

was adopted. By these and other meditated re-
trenchments it was estimated that the annual ex-
-penditure of the civil service would be perma-
nently diminished by four hundred thousand dol-
lars, or eighty thousand pounds. In the face of
such palpable occurrences there were public organs
which inveighed against the policy and purposes
of the government, designating the retrenchment
scheme as nothing better than a ‘sham.’ The
Quebec Daily News was one of these. That
journal accused the administration of appointing
their friends to office right and left; observing
that no less than eight or ten appointments had
been made in the Militia Department to fill the
vacancies created by those recently dismissed ;
that the office of Inspector of Custom-houses had
been re-established—au office abolished by the
previous government tliree years before; and that
this contemptible higgling plan of discharging
decrepid and invalided, although faithful, public
servants ; of sending one set of needy adventurers
adrift to make room for another still more needy
and unscrupulous, while pretending to purge the
departments and initiate a spirit of economy into
the civil service, was so hollow and transparent as
to be deserving of the utmost contempt.

Now was it without grounds that this bitter oppo-
sition had been evoked. One Saturday Mr. Nash,

81

AN UNPOPULAR ADJUTANT-GENERAL.

Deputy Adjutant-General for Upper-Canada, was
suddenly suspended, and on the following Monday
Mr. Walker Powell, ex-member for Norfolk,
quietly stepped into his place. This ill-advised
appointn.ent speedily raised up a storm of vitu-
peration against the ministry. It was publicly
stated that Mr. Powell was anything ' © qualified
for the responsible office into which been
thrust, while his loyalty became more ius sus-
pected. I was informed that he made a practice of
displaying the ‘Stars and Stripes’ from his resi-
dence every Fourth of July, and that the American
Standard sometimes got torn down by his incensed
fellow-townsmen. It was more than rumoured
that the post of Adjutant-General of Militia was
conferred on Mr. Powell by the Premier on the
requisition of another member of the cabinet, who
was said to have been under obligation to the
family of the individual thus promoted. Had
such been the case, it savours too much of that
purblind policy pursued at Washington, while it
evinces the adoption of the principle by the ad-
ministration that ‘to the victors belong the
spoils,’ or, in other words, the perquisites of
office.

It cannot be denied that the local government
of the Province has at all times very arduous
duties to perform, and no small difficulty in en-
E 5

§2 ENGLISH AMERICA.

deavouring to smooth down the ruffled sea of
faction, which is ever restless and boisterous.
Between the people of Upper and Lower Canada
a great gulf is fixed that no administrative policy
can bridge over. There is the representation by
‘double majority,’ and by ‘population’ parties,
while the people of both sections of the Province
are always jealous of their assumed rights and
privileges, which each consider to be ignored by
the other. In Canada West the Protestant
and Roman Catholic members are invariably at
loggerheads, and a politico-religious party amongst
the latter have been for some time battling for a
separate school system. Again, in Canada Kast,
the French population are provokingly exacting,
and do not amalgamate with the other European
settlers. They want this portion of the Province
exclusively for the French; have an objection to
people of other countries living amongst them;
and are opposed to progress in every way. Even
their loyalty is questionable, although they may
display the British flag in their chapels on féte
days.

CHAPTER V.

THE DEFENCE OF CANADA.

Rejection of the Militia Bill —Passing of a Modified Measure—
1 of Colonel Lysons, C.B.—Supineness among Volun-
teers—Strength of the Active Militia Force of Quebec—
Antipathy towards Englund—The New York Press Condoles
with the Canadians—Annexation and a French Protectorate
Denounced—Anglo-Federal Journals,

A false impression was created in England by the
voting down of the Militia Bill in the Canadian
parliament upon its second reading, which circum-
stance was so far denunciatory of the principle in-
volved therein. Some averred, and no doubt the
statement was accredited in Great Britain, that
the Roman Catholic population of Upper Canada
were more or less disloyal to the Crown; that
their representatives in the House of Assembly,
naturally enough, shared the principles and pre-
dilections of the constituencies by whom they
had been elected; and that had they suffered the
proposed Militia Bill to pass it would have savoured
of hostility to the Federal Government of America,

84 ENGLISH AMERICA.

while it would involve an amount of attachment to
the Crown and constitution of England, for which
they had no desire to receive the credit. Disloyal
constituencies there may exist, and disloyal repre-
sentatives also, but I am convinced that the great
mass of the Canadian people are staunchly and
unswervingly attached to British rule.

On the subject of the rejection of the Militia
Bill I have held several conversations with the
Premier and other members of the new or
‘ Liberal’ administration, by whom I was assured
that no disloyalty was intended by its rejection.

So far from opposing the principle therein in-
volved, amodified bill for a similar organization was
introduced by the government, somewhat analagous
to the volunteermovement at home. The paramount
objection to the measuve of the previous ministry
was the expense it would have entailed on the Pro-
vince, which, owing to the adverse operations of
the American war and other causes, had produced a

. deficit of five millions of dollars below the ar’ 41
revenue. The customs receipts alone, fro:r .e
lst January to the 13th May, 1862, had been less
by five hundred thousand dollars than they were
for the same period of the previous year. An ad-
ditional grant of seven hundred thousand dollars
had been voted for the completion of the Parlia-

ment Houses at Ottawa; while the redemption of

MODIFIED MILITIA BILL. 85

municipal bonds and the Seignorial Tenure formed
a combined item of nearly two million four hun-
dred thousand dollars. How then, it was gravely
asked, could one million of dollars additional be
voted for the purpose of organizing a militia force
and placing it upon a proper footing? The new
government, to their credit, have appropriated two
hundred and fifty thousand dollars for this object ;
just one-fourth of the amount proposed in the sup-
plementary estimates of the previous ministry ;
and forty thousand dollars in excess of the regular
annual appropriation for the purpose of colonial
defence. Had the rejected bill been brought for-
ward during the excitement occasioned by the
Trent difficulty, it would have met with no dis-
couragement from the Opposition ; indeed, would
have been carried without a dissentient vote. The
amicable relations subsequently existing between
England and America, in conjunction with
financial pressure, induced hostility to the mea-
sure, creating the ministerial crisis so humilia-
ting to the Conservative party.

The modified Militia Bill introduced by Colonel
Haultain, on behalf of the new government, and
carried through both Houses of the legislature,
contains but eleven short clauses, amending the
act previously in force. Section twenty-two of
this act is repealed, and a new section substi-

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wise oe ~

86 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tuted, to the effect that the active militia in time of
peace shall be composed of volunteer forces, and
that they shall be armed and formed at such
places and in such manner as may from time to
time be designated by the Commander-in-Chief.
The total strength of each volunteer corps is not
to exceed ten thousand officers and men in the
first class. Each volunteer is to receive clothing
while on drill or service, or six dollars a year in-
stead. Brigade-Majors may be appointed, not
exceeding one for each military district, to be re-
munerated at the rate of four hundred dollars
annually. The fortieth section of the old act is
likewise repealed, and a clause inserted, giving to
the active militia fifty cents. each day during the
twelve days’ drill imposed, and allowing a dollar
additional for each horse. The pay of the militia,
if called out for active service, is to be similar to
that of regular troops. Power is also given to
appoint one hundred drill sergeants, at the re-
muneration of one dollar and a half per day,
when employed. In the event of a war with the
Federal States, volunteer regiments of militia
may be enlisted for general service during the
war, in addition to the active and sedentary
militia. By the tenth section of the act, the
Commander-in-Chief is empowered to sanction
the organization of associations for the purposes

COLONEL LYSONS. 87

of drill, and of independent companies of infantry,
consisting of professors, masters, or pupils of
universities, or of persons engaged in or about
the same, who are to provide their own arms,
accoutrements, and clothing, and to receive no
pay.

I was invited to dinner one evening at the
hospitable mansion of the late Mr. Stewart Derbi-
shire, the Queen’s printer—a generous-hearted,
highly-gifted, and popular English gentleman ;
who, for services rendered to Spain, was honoured
with the ribbon of a noble oder. Amongst the
distinguished company present was Colonel
Lysons, ©.B., who had been despatched to
Canada some months before by the Imperial
government in order to organize the militia,
and who, upon being recalled, was about
to sail for Europe* He appeared greatly
chagrined at the failure of his mission and the
frustration of his plans. During the evening he
afforded me considerable insight into the merits
and advantages of the rejected bill, which left no
doubt on my mind that in a military sense he was
right, however impracticable may have been the

* Colonel Lysons has since revisited Canada, and occupies the
distinguished military post of Quarter-Master Genera] in Mon-
treal, an office which his high soldierly talents and attainments
will, doubtless, enable him to fulfil both with honour to him-
self and advantage to the service,

88 ENGLISH AMERICA.

carrying out of its details. Next day I received
from him a pamphlet, which he had written,
entitled “‘ Parting Words on the Rejected Militia
Bill.” The gallant author’s object evidently was,
judging from the perusal of this brochure, to
correct misrepresentations with respect to the
intentions of the Commission in regard to the
volunteers of Canada, who had shown zeal and
devotion in preparing for the defence of their
country. Colonel Lysons observes :—

‘¢ Had the proposed system been carried out, I
cannot but think that it would have gained
popularity day by day in its working in the rural
districts, and would soon have become so com-
pletely interwoven in the habits and ideas of the
people that nothing would have interrupted its
welfare.”

He concludes by remarking :—

‘In taking leave of the people of Canada, I
can assure them that I have conscientiously
laboured in their cause, and have recommended
what my experience in military matters has led
me to believe was necessary for their safety in case
of attack. I feel certain that no amount of
desultory drill, no amount of theoretical know-
ledge without practice, will be a sufficient protec-
tion to them in the hour of danger. Nothing
short of a broad organization, which will enable

APATHY AMONGST VOLUNTEERS. 89

this Province to put forth her whole power in the
very best formation, under the most advantageous
circumstances, will enable her to preserve her
liberty and her independence in case of a war
with the neighbouring States.”

And here it is but just to mention that the
popular clauses in the defeated bill were of the
ex-ministry’s initiation; the obnoxious clauses
having been forced upon them by the Commission.
It was thought that two hundred and fifty thou-
sand dollars voted in the supplementary estimates
by the new cabinet would, if properly and judi-
ciously applied, more than double the active
militia force then existing.

The volunteer movement in Quebec had only
just commenced to crawl. In no part of Canada
was such sluggishness and supineness manifested
amongst the militia forces. Should the citizen
soldiery happen to be called together for purposes
of drill, but few of them would muster. Owing
to this apathy, officers of battalions and companies
thought it advisable not to summon their respec-
tive corps at all.

‘¢T have raised several companies,” observed
the Honourable Mr. Couchon, ex-Commissioner .
of Works, one day to me, “but I could never
get my men together. Sometimes they could
not even be found.”

90 ENGLISH AMERICA.

From notifications in the local journals, I dis-
covered that a few energetic commanders of com-
panies attempted the experiment of inducing the
volunteers to assemble for instruction, though I
believe with dubious results.

The annexed return, exhibiting the strength of
the Active Volunteer Force in Quebec, was, upon
my solicitation, kindly furnished to me by the
Adjutant-General :—

DENOMINATION OF CORPS. STRENGTH.
Quebec Field Battery

1st Quebec Foot ameniiery Company
2nd ditto -

8rd ditto - ° -

4th ditto - . -
Quebec Engineers -

1st Levi’s Troop of Cavalry
1st Quebec ditto -

2nd ditto - - :
8rd ditto

7th Battalion Rifle Volunteers
8th ditto .

9th ditto

Major Corneil’s Volunteer Rifle Company
Civil Service Rifles -

Total strength .

It is much to be lamented that the volunteer
body should be found in such a comatose condi-
tion, although one would surmise that the pre-
sence of a large garrison would stimulate the
stolid spirit and dormant energies of the people.

The debates in the British parliament, on the
defences of Canada (which directly followed the

CANADA, A SPOILED CHILD. 91

rejection of the Militia Bill), and the comments
of influential metropolitan journals thereupon,
produced a very strong and irrascible feeling
throughout the Province. The Canadian press
bristled with sharp strictures upon those English
peers and English editors who presumed to school
and to scold Canadians into the adoption of a
policy which Canadians themselves considered
impracticable. A good deal of grumbling and
growling was indulged in, mingled with not a
little sulkiness ; while England was plainly and
pertly told to mind her own business—that Canada
must not be dictated to—that Canadians know
their own affairs best, and would not be forced
like slaves at the crack of the English manufac-
turers’ whip-lash !

One journal, somewhat remarkable for croaking
and crotchets, asserted that ‘‘ the rejection of the .
Militia Bill brought in by the late government
was but a pretext for the present ebullition of
ill-humour,” and that ‘ the true grievance is to be
traced to the fiscal policy which this country has
thought proper to adopt.” The truth is, that
Canada has become a spoiled child of the mother-
country. She has, from her infancy, been so
delicately nurtured and petted that she cannot
brook being chided, but grows fretful and restive
upon being reprimanded for her faults or directed

92 ENGLISH AMERICA.

in her duty. The New York press, and the
Herald in particular, expressed sympathy for the
Canadians, who were said to be “‘sharply stung by
the snubbing and sneers” they had received, and
to be the victims of “studied contempt and
studied indifference.” Even the Herald went so
far as to observe, ‘“‘ Weshould not be surprised if
the reaction of feeling produced by the recent
display of English indifference to them should
lead to the Canadians either setting up for them-
selves or annexing their territory to the United
(Northern) States !”’

This affected sympathy of the New York
press was, however, estimated at its proper
worth; and several journals vehemently de-
nounced the vile insinuations therein contained.
The Canadians do not possess such defective
mental vision that they could be imposed upon by
so flimsy a disguise. The desire for ‘ annexation’
is entirely unknown in Canada. There is no party
in the Province who favour such a project.

‘¢ In the depths of our colonial ignorance and pre-
judice,”’ observes the Chronicle, ‘‘ we fail to see the
advantages that would accrue by rending a connec-
tion with the greatest and most beneficent Power in
the world for one whose political theories and prac-
tices are of the narrowest and most retrograde kind.
We cannot detect the gain to be derived from

— or FH VB ES SON DODD

‘ANNEXATION’ V. A ‘FRENCH PROTECTORATE.’ 93

giving up a condition of peace and prosperity to
become a participant in civil war, with all the
ruin and misery it entails . . +. . Ina
word, we regard the idea of annexation as a
solemn humbug, which among Canadians is never
approached but with derision ; and the sooner our
neighbours quite comprehend this truth the better
for them. It may save them a fatal faux-pas
some day.”

These sentiments, I feel persuaded, properly
represent the feeling of the whole Canadian po-
pulation. Discussing the mooted subjects of a
French protectorate and annexation with the
Northern States, Le Journal de Quebec thus flat-
teringly refers to the benefits conferred upon
Canada by her existing relations with the mother-
country :—‘“‘ We are in a most exceptional posi-
tion, and he would be blind indeed who cannot
understand the immense advantage we enjoy in
living under the shelter of the British flag; and
guilty—yes, extremely guilty—those men who,
for a local and momentary triumph, would attempt
to drive us to another state of things.” The
writer then discusses in an able manner the in-
evitable evils that would ensue should the country
enter upon a new state of political life.

Canadians aver that English people know but
little about: either the inhabitants or the resources

04 ENGLISH AMERICA.

of their country. If such statement be true there
are abundant excuses for our alleged ignorance in
these respects ; but there can be no such ex-
tenuation for that of the Americans. And yet
the gross ignorance betrayed by the journalists of
New York was unprecedented when they hinted
the probability or advocated the desirability of the
annexation of Canada. Their ignorance was only
equalled by. their impertinence, and the mock
sympathy they extended to our colonists, whom
they characterised as the victims of ‘‘ studied con-
tempt and studied indifference.” The Canadians
were not so thin-skinned as to feel either ‘dis-
gusted’ or ‘snubbed’ because the English parlia-
ment and the press did not exactly compliment
or flatter them. They can bear reproof from
England, even if unjustly offered; nay, they will
even brook dictation ; but they spurn the
maudlin sympathy of the Federal States, and de-
precate individually and collectively a closer con-
nection with them than that which the growth of
mutual commerce has engendered.

Did some English journalists but anticipate the
immense merriment which their sage lncubrations
would receive in our Canadian dependency, as-
suredly their scribes would have been silent instead
of prating about subjects they did not comprehend.
The Morning Star—that brilliant luminary in a

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A BRIGHT IDEA. 95

Bright constellation—emitted rays, which, however
dazzling to the politicians of Manchester, flung
a total eclipse over the mental horizon of those
resident in Canadian latitudes.

‘¢ Tf,”” observes that sapient organ, at a time of
considerable excitement, “ the Canadians be not
invincibly loyal they will forthwith set up as an
independent state. Never had a people such en-
couragement to assert for themselves a place
among the nations. Not only are they plainly
told that Great Britain will make no effort
to hold them to their allegiance, but they are
almost scolded for continuing a connection in
which, it is said, all the advantage is on their
side. They are reproached with insensibility to
their duties and with an undue enjoyment of their
privileges. They are threatened with desertion if
ever an occasion should arise to which the help of
the mother-country is needed. The young bird,
having outgrown its subjection to the parental
will, is stimulated by beak and claws to take its
flight; and if we are not mistaken in the nature of
the fledgeling, it will presently plume its wings
and soar away with a scream of conscious power.”

Even when Canada was assailed in both Houses
of parliament she was as devotedly attached to the
Crown of England as she had ever been. Not
only so, but she exhibited dignified meekness and

Ses SE Ss ph ngs
ocd. Sos oe ae

96 ENGLISH AMERICA.

composure under the severe castigations she re-
ceived from certain noble lords and the public
journals, under the belief that when this country
was duly informed of the complicated causes that
led to the throwing out of the Militia Bill, and the
consequent dissolution of the government, that
her loyalty would not be impeached. Her
‘‘ withers” did not ‘“‘ wince” under the castiga-
tions she received, however undeserved. Nor had
she then, as now, the slightest desire of throw-
ing off the English yoke, pluming her young
wings, and ‘Soaring away with a scream of
conscious power ”—whither the oracle did not say.
People are not addicted to ‘tar and feathering’
in Canada; but were the writer who advanced
such unsavoury and disloyal sentiments there at
one time, I am inclined to think that institution
would have been improvised for the nonce.

It is but just, nevertheless, to observe, that the
debates in the English parliament upon our colo-
nial defences met with a very unfavourable recep-
tion from one portion of the Canadian population.
French journals generally employed most tren-
chant language in denouncing the sentiments
uttered in those discussions. The leading French
organs in Quebec are Le Courrier du Canada, and
Le Canadien. The former had been Conserva-
tive in its principles, but was subsequently reputed

=.

SPIRIT OF THE FRENCH CANADIAN PRESS. 97

to be under the influence of the Catholic priest-
hood. With regard to the latter, it became the
avowed organ of the French members of the
newly-formed Cabinet, who purchased it about a
month previous to the ministerial dissolution.
This journal was conducted by M. Barthé, whose
hostility to England is well known, having pub-
lished some few years since a brochure entitled
‘¢ Canada Reconquered by France.”

Animadverting upon Lord Palmerston’s ob-
servations on the occasion of the debate, Le
Courrier contended that his lordship could not
have meant what he said, or have spoken more
adversely of a colony that he was about to
abandon to its fate; that the Government of
England had assumed a fearful responsibility ;
that the policy of that country was based upon
egotism and fear; that the allusion to the danger
from America was but a pitiable excuse; and,
finally, that the abandonment of Canada was a
project deeply seated in the breast of the British
parliament.

Commenting on the same fertile topic, Le
Canadien grew vituperative and surly, and growled
like a bear with a sore head. ‘It is useless,”
this uneasy and querulous organ remarked, “ to
disguise the fact, that Canada understands her
duties and her interests better than to change her
VOL. I. F

98 ENGLISH AMERICA,

obligations from day to day merely to suit the
views of England. It is an absurd idea to talk
of enrolling our peaceable agricultural population
for soldiers, and placing them upon our already
exhausted treasury. From that we should be led
to the construction of gunboats, the raising of
bastions, the fortifying of posts, and the forma-
tion and defence of strategic points—thus incur-
ring fabulous expenses. Such is the extravagant
folly of those who endeavour to charge Canada
with a million and a half for the purchase of the
Hudson’s Bay Company. We may as well put
Canada up to auction. ...... Let England
henceforth understand that the colonies are not
children, but must be treated as those who have
arrived at maturity, upon fundamental questions
affecting their destiny........ The Cana-
dian parliament to-day, as in 1812, has been faith-
ful and true in its determination. There is no
recoil but before impossibilities, and who will dare
push us to that ?”

Such is the gist of the rabid article that ap-
peared in Le Canadien.

My impression is that Canada had been more
or less traduced by certain members of the
British parliament, and by one at least of the
leading journals. The rejection of the Militia
Bill had given rise to much false conjecture.

THE VOLUNTEER FORCE.

People at home naturally enough inferred that
this act of the Canadian legislature reflected in-
juriously upon the loyalty of the Canadians gene-
rally. So far as regards the real merits of the
intended measure, I did not hear a dissentient or
disparaging voice; but, however excellent, it was
utterly impracticable, and therefore was voted
down. Out ofa sparse population of two and a
half millions it would surely be difficult to raise a
body of active militia one hundred thousand strong.
But even if this could have been accomplished, how
were farming labours to be carried on meanwhile?
The necessities of the country would not admit of
such an abstraction of labour, and at a particu ar
season of the year, when the crops required to be
cut and garnered.

The effective volunteer force of Canada, existing
and recognised by the Government at the time
the projected Bill was introduced into parliament,
amounted to 14,219. Of these 10,615 were in-
fantry, 1687 were artillery, and 1615 were cavalry,
in addition to 200 engineers. Other corps were
undergoing drill instruction, and only awaiting
Government recognition to be armed, accoutred,
and regularly enrolled. These unrecognised com-
panies would have raised the aggregate militia
force of the Province to something over 16,000
effective troops. The new act, however, author-
F2

100 ENGLISH AMERICA.

ised the enrolment of 10,000 additional volunteers,
thereby augmenting the active strength of that
defensive body to 26,000. So far Canada con-
sidered she had done her duty, and as much as could
reasonably have been expected from her. Hence she
chafed under the animadversions flung so reck-
lessly upon her energy and her allegiance, as
though she were some political changeling, who
had evinced no attachment for her natural parent.

Another consideration is that in Canada there
are very few individuals who can properly be desig-
nated wealthy. Everybody has to labour in one
sphere or another, and labour constantly too.
When this circumstance is duly weighed, it will
be found that our colonists are neither regardless
of their obligations nor indifferent to the just
demands of the English Government; and that |
an active force of 26,000 volunteers, raised under
such conditions and disadvantages, is an honour-
able evidence of Canadian loyalty. Of this I feel
fully persuaded, judging from the universal, un-
disguised sentiment of the people, that should
England unfortunately become embroiled in hostili-
ties with the Federal States, and Canada become
the battle-ground, there would not be wanting
willing hearts and brawny hands to -— in de-
fence of the flag that

‘“ Braved a thousand years,
The battle and the breeze.”

CHAPTER VI.

THE UNIVERSITY OF LAVAL.—THE GRAND AND
LITTLE SEMINARIES,

Grant of a Royal Charter—Prince of Wales’ Visit —Institution
of a Prize—Outline of the Buildings, Cabinets, Museums, ete.
—Pupils and Professors—The Late Rector—The Grand Se-
minary for Theological Students—Financial Position of the
University—Costume of the Scholars in the Little Seminary
—Residence of the Priests—Monseigneur De Laval—His
Educational Labours—A Combination of Mishaps.

THE principal educational institution in Quebec is
LD’ Université-Laval, It was commenced in 1852,
upon the grant of a Royal Charter by Queen Vic-
toria, on the joint recommendation of the Executive
Council of Canada, Lord Elgin, the Governor-
General, and Sir John Pakington, the Colonial
Secretary. The cost of its construction amounted
to forty-five thousand pounds. In appearance it
is extensive, but unimposing; the main building
being of oblong form, two hundred and eighty
feet long, fifty feet wide, and five storys high.
It has a flat roof, with a sanded platform running
the entire extent of the edifice, railed round
with strong wooden pillars. Here the students

102 ENGLISH AMERICA.

occasionally walk, talk, smoke, and otherwise
recreate themselves. On one side of the platform
is a capacious water tank, always supplied so as
to be available in case of fire. The site - espe-
cially the view from the summit—commands an
xtensive prospect of the majestic St. Lawrence,
and the vast amphitheatre of massive mountains
that lift their rugged crests as far as eye can
stretch, until their misty forms are lost among
the clouds. When the Prince of Wales visited
Quebec, he generously contributed the sum of two
hundred pounds to the University, so that a prize
has been founded, called the “ Prince of Wales’
Prize,” for which the pupils annually compete.
Long prior to the grant of the Royal Charter
and the erection of the new building, a scholastic
foundation stood, and still stands, upon this spot,
to which Pius IX. has accorded the privileges of a
university. It is divided into two branches, distin-
guished as the Grand Séminaire and the Petite Sé-
minaire. The branch attached to both colleges is
now termed the University. Here the principal arts
and sciences are taught under competent professors,
two of whom belong to the Anglican communion.
This seems a very politic arrangement, as the privi-
leges of the institution are open to pupils of every
creed.
The great hall, wherein public ceremonies take

r-CclUl wr ww —_- =

THE CABINETS AND MUSEUMS. 1038

place, degrees are conferred, and public lectures
are delivered, is one hundred and fifty feet in
length, and can comfortably accommodate over
two thousand persons, Galleries extend all round
this department, to which ladies are exclusively
admitted. On the ground floor, a room is ap-
propriated to Indian antiquities. These consist of
skulls, stone pipes, pottery, axes, arrows, and
tomahawks, the last of which, in all probability,
have been embued in the blood of the white man
during many sanguinary conflicts. On one of the
pipes a fox’s head is carved, and so excellently is it
executed as to impart to the figure a semblance of
life. In the centre of another department was dis-
played a valuable collection of medical instruments,
manufactured in Paris for the institution. These
were carefully protected against atmospheric in-
fluences by tight-fitting glass cases. Similar cases,
only differing in form, were arranged at either side
of the Museum, wherein are preserved a rare collec-
tion of casts, skeletons, and human bones, origi-
nally brought from the French capital.

The University likewise possesses a fire-proof
chemical laboratory, on the plan of that at King’s
College, London; replete with every modern im-
provement. This department is under the super-
intendence of a talented American, Dr. Sterry
Hunt, F.R.S. The Cabinet of Natural Philosophy

104 ENGLISH AMERICA.

is similar to that at Brussels, and cost about
three thousand pounds. For the most part the ex-
tensive apparatus was manufactured in Paris and
London; but a portion of it came from the States.
In addition to these are Geological and Minera-
logical Museums—the latter embracing a rich
collection expressly prepared by the late eminent
Abbé Haiiy, whose name is extensively known in
European scientific circles. In other departments
of a like nature, I observed French and Canadian
specimens. These are likely to become extensive,
as the local Government have pledged themselves
to present to the institution specimens of minerals
and geological fossils. In an adjacent room was
a magnificent array of crystals, said to be highly
valuable. Another apartment was devoted to
zoology ; but, save a carabou, or Canadian deer,
badly stuffed, there was nothing to excite parti-
cular attention.

There is a spacious, well-lighted, and airy lec-
ture room, for the elucidation of history and phi-
losophy. The professors’ chair is of Canadian
black walnut, a timber almost undistinguishable
from rosewood. Over the chair stands, boldly
displayed, the coat-of-arms of the Faculty of Arts,
consisting simply of an open book, surmounted by
entwined laurel leaves. An immense apartment,
embracing two storys formed into one, is appro-

PUPILS AND PROFESSORS. 105

priated to the Library. Therein are deposited
twenty-eight thousand volumes, comprising his-
tory, theology, science, Latin and Greek classics,
and numerous works in English, French, Spanish,
and German. The proportion of English and
French literature is about equal. Two excellent
reading rooms, are set apart for the use of the
students—to one of which only those who are
studying medicine gain admission. The dissecting-
room is a large, well-ventilated, and appropriately
furnished chamber, possessing every modern ap-
pliance. To this apartment no pupil has access
without one of the professorsbeing present. Such
I regard as a salutary arrangement, which may
be beneficially followed in other schools of asimi-
lar ogaracter, both at home and abroad. There
are three terms in each scholastic year, each of
three months’ duration. The pupils are required
to be familiar with English and French; lectures
being delivered in both languages, at the option
of the professors. About sixty-five young men
were attending the University at the time of my
visit; some of whom came from various parts of
Europe and America. A private apartment, or
robing-room, is assigned fo each professor—and
there are no less than thirty attached to the various
chairs—an arrangement productive no less of
public order than of private comfort.

F 5

106 ENGLISH AMERICA.

The Council Chamber is spacious and hand-
somely furnished. Over the mantel-piece was a
full-sized portrait of the Rev. Monsieur Casault,
who died a short time before, and to whose funeral
people flocked from, all parts of the Province.
The portrait referred to was presented to their
Superior by the professors a¢ few months
previous to his decease, in testimony of their es-
teem and veneration. Casault was the Legislator
and Rector of the University, and fulfilled his
responsible trust with zeal, ability, and honour.

In close proximity to the chief edifice is a lofty
structure used as a ‘boarding-house by the stu-
dents. This is capable of accommodating fifty
persons. It contains an excellent saloon, fur-
nished with a pianoforte, a smoking room, segeral
studies, and every requisite for domestic comfort
and cleanliness. A well arranged garden is at-
ached to the college, adjoining which is an ex-
. tensive playground. The entire group of build-
ings, which are laid out in quadrilateral form and
cover a large area, may be classified as follows:
Firstly, the Grand Seminary, where students live
who are preparing for the priesthood; secondly,
the Little Seminary, or® college for the study of
Classics ; thirdly, the University for the prosecu-
tion of the several sciences. Connected with both
colleges is a very antiquated French structure,

THE SEMINARY. 107

having massive stone walls, looking as though
they were built for purposes of defence. Herein
the ecclesiastics, or masters, reside. All the scholars
in the Petite Séminaire wear a peculiar costume,
consisting of a blue walking coat with facings of
white braid, a cap of similar material, and a sash
of green segge. This livery, although absurd
enough, certainly looks far less grotesque than the
monkish habiliments worn by the pupils of Christ’s
Hospital. e

Respecting the financial position of the Laval
University there is little to say, further than it is
far from flourishing. Since the opening of the
institution—just seven years from the time of my
visit—over seventy-four thousand pounds have
been expended. For the year 1861 the disburse-
ments were 14,626 dollars, while the receipts from
all sources merely amounted to 2,693 dollars,
thereby leaving a deficit of 11,933 dollars. With
such a paucity of pupils, the low, charges de-
manded, and inadequate resources, I cannot see
how the University can be efficiently maintained
without liberal parliamentary appropriations.

And here it will be expedient to make a few
remarks respecting that ancient institution, the
Seminary of Quebec. This establishment was
_ originally founded and endowed by Monseigneur
De Laval de Montmorency, the first Roman Ca-

108 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tholic Bishop of that diocese, in the year 1663.
At the outset it was principally intended for the
education of a few candidates for the priesthood.
' When the Jesuit Order was abolished by the
French Government, the members of the Semi-
nary flung open its doors to the youth of the
country; although the resources of the institution
scarcely warranted such a generous act. Pro-
fessorships were duly inaugurated, and the ordi-
nary branches of education began to be taught.
Twice, during the life of its founder, were the
buildings of the Seminary burnt to the ground.
The first fire occurred in November, 1708, during
the absence of most of the ecclesiastics ; when the
bishop, who resided on the foundation, had to
escape half-dressed from the burning edifice.
The French Court, upon an urgent representa-
tion being made to it, granted an annual pension
of four thousand livres towards its reconstruction
and sustentation. After four years’ labour had
been bestowed upon the new structure, and when
not far from completion, it was again set on fire
through the negligence of a workman. The
edifice was finally rebuilt, but was again almost
totally destroyed by fire during the siege of 1759,
just previous to the famous battle of the Plains
of Abraham, which won Canada for the British

rown. The disasters of the Seminary were not

GOVERNMENT OF THE SEMINARY. 109

even yet complete; for it was once more partially
consumed in 1772—a cowbination of mishaps
truly.

The authority of the Seminary resides in a
Board of Directors (one of whom is Superior),
who are elected triennially. The other officers
consist of two.assistants ; the Procureur, a director
of the theological department, or Grand-Sémi-
naire; the director and principal Préfet des
Etudes of the college; and the steward, or
Assistant-Procureur. All of these, with the ex-
ception of the last-named, are appointed annwally
by the Board. The ecclesiastics, or members of
the Seminary, receive no emoluments. The foun-
dation simply guarantees to them “ food and rai-
ment in sickness and in health.” They make no
special vows, like members of monastic orders.
Hence they are at liberty to resign their offices
and leave the institution whenever any important
cause arises to justify such a course. The pupils
number over two hundred, about one-half of whom
are pensionnaires, maintained on the founda-
tion. In this institution no fees are paid for
tuition. The boarders are required to pay 17/. 10s.
per annum; but in case of absence for eight days
or over, a deduction is made accordingly. The
day scholars disburse ten shillings in the Fall, and
@ similar sum in the Spring, to meet the cost of

110 ENGLISH AMERICA.

wood, candles, etc. Largesums of money arising
from the sale of property bequeathed to the insti-
tution by several wealthy individuals in France,
previous to the French Revolution, and which has
been recovered since the restoration of the Bour-
bons, have enabled the directors, since 1820, to
re-build the Seminary on a more extensive scale
than the original edifice.

Having been introduced, and politely conducted
over the entire range of buildings by the Recorder,
J. Crimazie, Esq., LL.D. (who likewise holds
thevchair of the Faculty of Law), and the Se-
cretary, the Rev. Thomas E. Hamel, I was finally
shown into the Chapel of the Seminary. Here are
preserved valuable paintings by French Masters.
The leading subjects are “‘ The Flight of Joseph,”
by Jean Baptiste Vauloo, painter to the King of
France, but who afterwards resided in London,
where he obtained great fame; ‘‘The Wise Men
of the East,” by Bourien; ‘The Ascension,”
“The Day of Pentecost,” and “St. Jerome
Writing,” by the brothers Champagnes; ‘ The
Trance of St. Anthony,” by D’Avignes; and
‘¢ Peter’s Deliverance,” by De la Fosse, a disciple
of Le Brun, and whom Louis XIV. sent to Rome
to complete his studies, where he imitated Titian
and Paolo Veronese, and became an excellent
colourist. Being addicted to large compositions,

SAINTLY RELICS, 111

he was much engaged in royal palaces and public
buildings; and was finally invited to England by
the Duke of Montague, who employed him in or-
namenting his town residence, which occupied the
site upon which the British Museum now stands.
In addition to the works already mentioned, I
observed excellent paintings by Halle, D’Hullin,
Guillot, De Dieu Lagreneé, and Monet; but to
my apprehension the most exquisitely executed of
them all is a small oval picture representing ‘* Two
Angels,” by Charles Le Brun, an_ illustrious
French painter of Scotch extraction, who is: said
to have drawn figures with charcoal at three years
of age! _ At either side of the grand altar, my at-
tention was attracted to a large cabinet containing
human skulls, and sundry fragments of bones,
displayed in divers forms, and enclosed in a glass
case—a shocking and repulsive sight.

‘‘T perceive, Monsieur,” I observed to the
priest who accompanied me, “that you have got
relics here; have the goodness to inform me
whose they are ?”

‘‘Qh,” rejoined the ecclesiastic, evidently
startled at the boldness of my interrogation, ‘ they
are the relics of unknomwn saints.”

I said no more, but cogitated considerably upon
the candid, if not lucid, confession of the good
but simple priest, who so far essayed to dispel my

112 ENGLISH AMERICA.

heretical ignorance. After all, what a comforting
doctrine is implicit faith ; from what mental misery
and perplexity does it not sometimes save us!
Altogether my visit to Laval University was
highly pleasurable. I regard such an institution,
if properly conducted, and efficiently supported,
of vital importance, and as calculated to break
down the strong barriers of religious resentment
and political party-feeling, so prevalent through-
out Canada. In this seat of learning, Protestant
and Catholic youth, while acquiring proficiency
in the arts and sciences, may also learn lessons
of no less advantage, because purely of a social
character. The attrition of thought, similarity
of pursuits, and continuity of intercourse neces-
sarily engendered, will tend to foster those
amenities of life, and that urbanity of demeanour
and suavity of mind, calculated in themselves to
destroy sectarian prejudices and party predilec-
tions—the unmitigated banes of the Province.

CHAPTER VII.

MORAL ASPECTS OF THE CAPITAL.

Separate School Systems—How Common Schools are Sup-
ported—Educational Statistics—The Old Jesuit College Me-
tamorphosed into a Burrack—Preponderance and Description
of Crime—Visit to the Gaol—What Constitutes ‘ Hard
Labour”—The ‘‘ Room of Records ’’—Condition of the Prison
and the Prisoners—Absence of Classification—Gaol Dietary.

Notwitxstanvine that the system of public in-
struction has been but ten or twelve years in ope-
ration, elementary education is widely diffused
throughout Canada, and schools are rapidly ad-
vancing in number, organization, and efficiency.
Both sections of the Province enjoy separate school
laws, adapted to the religious elements prevailing
in either. The common schools are supported
partly by Government, and partly by local, self-
imposed taxation, and occasionally by the pay-
ment of a small monthly fee from each scholar.
One of the best educational institutes in Quebec
is the High School. It was originally founded
by the Rev. Dr. Cook, of St. Andrew’s Church,
who has been chairman of the Board of Directors

114 ENGLISH AMERICA.

since its establishment. The first Rector was the
Rev. Daniel Wilkie, LL.D., who died in 1852,
through whose exertions this establishment be-
came raised in importance.

Annexed is a synopsis of the elaborate educa-
tional statistics collected by the Inspectors of
Schools, with reference to the district of Quebec,
taken from the latest published returns :—

Elementary Schools - 629 #£Pupils - 384,957
41

Primary Schools ° iy - 2,541
Dissentient Schools - ill : 365
Academies : . 14 9 : 997
Colleges - . ° 4 Pf : 898
Normal School -~—- 1 ” : 94 yy ‘
Educational Convents - 17 s - 8,828
Independent Schuvols - 110 ” - 6,924
Total Institutions - 827 ” - 49,099

It is somewhat remarkable that out of over
49,000 scholars, only 6,400, or thereabout, attend
the Roman Catholic public schools, including the
University of Laval; and this, amongst a com-
munity of at least two-thirds French Canadians.
When it is considered likewise that the convent
schools afford the best education, the fact appears
the more unaccountable.

The first school in Canada was opened in Quebec
as far remote as 1632. At this time it cortained
but two pupils—a negro lad and an Indian boy,
who were instructed in the rudiments of the
French tongue, and initiated in the art of writing.

THE OLD JESUIT COLLEGE. 115

The following year the number of scholars in-
creased to twenty, and by the assiduity and enthu-
siasm of its founder, this institution‘ became the
nucleus of the famous Jesuit College—a seat. of
learning wherein the course of study had been
similar to that pursued in the College of Louis-
le-Grand, Paris.

The history of the Jesuit College may be suc-
cinctly told. Two years after Champlain had re-
sumed the government of New France, namely,
in 1638, the foundation of the original College
was laid. At this time there were but fifteen
priests and four lay-brothers in Quebec, the latter
being employed in the instruction of youth. The
idea of establishing such a seminary was first en-
tertained. by the eldest son of the Marquis de
Gamache, one Rene Rohault, who had joined the
Jesuit confraternity ; to further whose project his
family gave six thousand crowns in gold to the
General of the Order. The capture of the city by
the British retarded the prosecution of the plan;
but after the Restoration, the original design was
carried into execution. Accordingly, the founda-
tion was laid with great ceremony in December,
1635. Five years after its erection the College
was completely destroyed by fire. It was subse-
quently re-built in its present form, and on pre-
cisely the same site, and must, doubtless, have

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116 ENGLISH AMERICA.

looked imposing in its day. It isa large, quad-
rangularly-shaped stone building, and covers a
considerable area of ground. The edifice looks
gloomy and prison-like, and the open space within
recalls anything but the idea of those umbrageous
walks where the Jesuit fathers were wont, after
the manner of philosophical sages of old—inter
sylvas academi querere verum.

Just as in England prior to the Reformation, the
members of the Jesuit Order in Canada had acquired
immense revenues. These were obtained by private
purchases, by royal grants, and by the bequests and
donations of devout and admiring Catholics. In
1764 the King of France abolished the dangerous
confraternity, when its members sank down to the
condition of humble citizens. The last Jesuit
connected with the College was Father Casot, who
died in 1800, when the property of the Order fell to
the Crown, in which it is still vested. The spacious
building is now devoted to the purposes of a
barrack.

Having thus far treated of education, I now
come to consider the condition of crime in Quebec.
This I am enabled to do, owing to the kindness
of his Honour the Judge of the Sessions of the
Peace, who caused tabular statistics to be spe-
cially prepared for my information.

The total number of prisoners arrested by the

CRIMINAL STATISTICS, 117

city police, from the 1st of January to the 31st of
December, 1861, amounted to 3,441. Of these
2,547 were men, and 894 women. The offences
with which those persons were respectively
charged are classified under twenty-eight heads,
which it is unnecessary, and would prove weari-
some, to particularise. I find, however, that the
largest proportion of offences is manifestly trace-
able to inebriety. For example, the number of
persons arrested for ‘‘ drunkenness and impeding
passengers”? was 1,363 men and 289 women,
making a total of 1,652; while those charged
with breaches of the peace and resisting the police
—very probably also the effects of intemperance
—amounted to 198 men and 44 women, or an ag-
gregate of 242 persons.

The next largest numbers charged with positive
infractions of the law are as follows :— Larceny,
101 males and 45 females, altogether 146 cases.
Then 87 persons were arraigned for offences
against the bye-laws. The number of persons ar-
rested for the higher class of offences is compara-
tively small, viz., murder, 1; manslaughter, 1;
assault with intent to maim, 4; having on the
person deadly weapons, 6; stabbing and wound-
ing, 9; robbery with violence, 3. The number
of *‘ vagrants, and persons claiming protection for

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118 ENGLISH AMERICA.

the night,” amounted to 1,192,—720 males and
472 females. It is certainly difficult to accredit
that in a country like Canada, where labour is
affirmed to be scarce and well remunerated, so
many houseless wanderers should be found in one
city during the brief period of twelve months.
Surely there must be “something rotten in the
state of Denmark ’’ when such misery and destitu-
tion exist.

Of the 3,441 persons arrested by the police, and
arraigned before the stipendiary magistrate, 1,892
were discharged (possibly for want of sufficient
evidence to criminate); 384 were liberated upon
payment of fine; 1,032 were committed in defaul'
of payment; 37 were bound over to keep the
peace ; 35 were committed for trial; 7 were com-
mitted for trial but admitted to bail; and 53 were
summarily convicted of larceny and other offences
of a directly criminal nature. Out of 21 insane
persons, one only was removed to the Lunatic
Asylum. These returns, however, must not be re-
garded as the true condition of criminality in this
city. The police are inadequate to prevent, and
too unsophisticated to discover crime. With
a thoroughly efficient police organisation, the
periodical criminal statistics would exhibit a
more formidable array of derelicts than the re-

THE GAOL. : 119

turns at present show, although for one city of a
young colony the figures are strange and startling
enough.

While in Quebec, I visited the Gaol in com-
pany with the Honourable J. Maguire, Judge of
the Sessions. This building, situated in one of
the best localities in the centre of the Upper Town,
was erected during the administration of Sir
James Craig, at a cost of 15,0007, which sum
was defrayed by the legislature out of the public
treasury. The building was first occupied in
1814, Its length is one hundred and sixty, and
its breadth sixty-eight feet. Adjoining the same,
with a miserably confined court-yard between
where the male prisoners occasionally take exer-
cise, is the House of Correction for women. The
entire structure is now in a most dilapidated con-
dition, so much so, indeed, as to be almost unin-
habitable. Besides the incapacity of the Gaol to
accommodate the increasing number of prisoners,
its internal arrangements are extremely deficient,
and even wofully behind the age. A new prison,
however, was in course of erection on the St. Foy
Road, contiguous to the classic Plains of Abraham ;
but although the site is appropriate, I cannot
speak approvingly either of the style or the plan
of the structure. When this edifice will be
completed there is no telling; nor do I believe

120 ENGLISH AMERICA.

that the Apollo of the Board of Works could give
any definite information on the subject, did he
essay to oracularise. Private bickerings and ca-
balings had arisen between the architect and the
builders, so that the former refused to certity for
the works of the latter, and no compensation
under such circumstances could be obtained from
the Commissioner of Works. It was thought
that the contractors would eventually have to
abandon the undertaking. These remarks I make
parenthetically, so now I revert to the old
prison.

At the time of my visit there were 115 prisoners
confined therein (73 males and 42 females), either
under sentence or awaiting trial; although I was
informed by the jailer—a very common-place in-
dividual—that the inmates generally averaged
120. Of these 115 prisoners, two were committed
for murder on the high seas; one for wounding
with intent to murder; and the others comprised
larceny, inebriate, and assault cases. No attempt
whatever is made at classification; nor, perhaps,
would the resources of the Gaol admit of its being
done thoroughly. Criminals of every grade freely
associate together both by day and night; for
their sleeping cells abut upon their day rooms, or
rather form enclosed recesses in these ill-con-
structed apartments.

PRISON DISCIPLINE. 121

In the men’s ward I observed nine persons in a
single room; while in the women’s wards there
were a8 many as nineteen prisoners in ‘one room,
and seventeen prisoners and five children in
another. No wonder that the jailer should have
observed to me—

‘‘T assure you, sir, they go out much worse
than they come in !”—a statement I was fully pre-
pared to endorse.

‘‘The inspection of a prison like the present
Gaol at Quebec,” observes the Inspector, in his
Report for 1860, “‘is unavailing. It is a mere
temple of Cloacina, and a school of iniquity.
With such materials nothing can be effected, and
we must await, however impatiently, the new
buildings, which will supply the means of a better
organisation.”

The undeviating occupation of the male dere-
licts consists in picking oakum, which, lest it
should perchance hurt or spoil their delicate
fingers, is previoy’ » soaked in warm water until
it becomes as } st. and soft as clay in the hands
of the potter. iiow the London pickpockets and
other felons, sentenced to “ hard labour,” would
relish such a pleasant mode of killing time!
Contrary to the Prison Inspectors’ rules, the pri-
soners are suffered to smoke—an arrangement
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122 ENGLISH AMERICA.

that, in consequence of the disagreeable odour
permeating the building, is almost essential to
render incarceration in such exiguous, foul-smell-
ing wards bearable.

Certainly, the trenchant rebuke of the inimi-
table Sidney Smith does not apply to this penal
establishment, however characteristic of others,
namely, that ‘‘ Since the benevolent Howard at-
tacked our prisons, incarceration has become not
only healthy but elegant, and a jail is precisely
the place to which any pauper might wish to re- -
tire to gratify his taste for magnificence as well as
for comfort.”

The unconquerable repugnance to cleanliness
manifested by the criminal classes generally, is
very remarkable, and might furnish a subject for
interesting inquiry to the social science philo-
sopher.

‘¢ Prisoners dread the bath, sir,” remarked the
jailer; ‘‘some of them do not have an ablution
until they come in here.”

Iron bars having been foolishly placed in
wooden sockets outside of the windows when
the building was constructed, facilities were
afforded for prisoners to cut away a portion of
the framework, remove the obstruction, and so
escape. Fifteen years ago it was not an unusual

‘THE ROOM OF RECORDS.’ 123

occurrence for a number of felons to effect their
freedom in this manner during a single night.
Even in broad daylight the venture has been
successful. Since the prison guard was instituted
no escape has taken place; but such a precau-
tionary measure should, assuredly, long before
have been adopted.

One apartment in the prison is designated
‘The Room of Records,’ in consequence of the
various felons from time to time confined
therein, having carved their names and the dates
of their incarceration on the floor, so as wholly to
deface it. They take a secret pride in thus per-
petuating their infamy. In illustration of the
irradicable propensity to theft manifested by a
certain class of offenders, the jailer informed
me that some time back he had missed a silk
pocket-handkerchief and another article of trifling
value. After much fruitless inquiry, and re-
peated examinations of the prisoners’ rooms,
the missing articles were finally discovered con-
cealed in the wall and beneath the flooring, a
portion of which had been neatly and dexterously
cut out, and the purloined property deposited
therein.

Subjoined are the several dietaries for prisoners
confined in the common Gaols of Canada :—
a2

sei tio A

ENGLISH AMERICA.

Cuass I.

Prisoners confined for any time not exceeding four-
teen days.

BREAKFAST.—One pint of oatmeal gruel and /
six ounces of bread.
DiInNER.—Twelve ounces of bread.
Suprer.—Same as breakfast.
All prisoners to have in addition one pint of soup
at dinner twice per week; those at hard labour
to have the same quantity four times per week.

Crass II.

Prisoners not employed at hard labour for periods
exceeding fourteen days.

BreakFast.—One pint of oatmeal gruel and
eight ounces of bread.

Dinner (two days).—One pint of soup and
eight ounces of bread.

Ditto (other two days).—Five ounces of cooked
meat without bone, eight ounces of bread, and
7) half a pound of potatoes,

tH Ditto (three days).—Eight ounces of bread,
| one pound of potatoes, or a pint of gruel when
potatoes cannot be had.
Surrer.—The same as breakfast.

GAOL DIETARY.

Crass III.

Prisoners employed at hard labour for any time ex-
ceeding fourteen days but not more than six
necks.

BreakFast.—One pint of oatmeal gruel and
eight ounces of bread.

Dinner (two days).—One pint of soup, and
eight ounces of bread.

Ditto (three days).—Six ounces of cooked meat
without bone, eight ounces of bread, and half a
pound of potatoes.

Ditto (two days).—Eight ounces of bread, one
pound of potatoes, or a pint of gruel when the
former cannot be had.

Cuass IV.
Prisoners employed at hard labour for any period
exceeding six weeks.

Breakrast.—One pint of oatmeal gruel and
eight ounces of bread.

Dinner (two days).—One pint of soup, eight
ounces of bread, and six ounces of cooked meat.

Ditto (four days).—Eight ounces of bread, and
half a pound of potatoes.

Ditto (one day).—Eight ounces of bread, one
pound of potatoes, or one pint of gruel when
potatoes cannot be had. :
Surrer.—The same as breakfast.

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These regulations embrace the tables of diet
for male prisoners. Those for women are some-
what similar, though considerably reduced in
scale; in some instances as much as one-half,
Generally, however, the difference does not exceed
a couple of ounces. Water and salt are allowed
in abundance. This is not the place to treat of
prison reform; if it were, I should certainly re-
commend that the diet of prisoners be kept
low; for, as an eminent English divine and sati-
rist once observed :—

‘There is nobody so gluttonous as a thief,
and he will feel much more bitterly fetters on
his mouth than on his heels.” |

It is not an unusual occurrence for lunatics to
be brought to gaol, where they remain five or six
weeks, and sometimes longer, before they are trans-
ferred to suitable refuges. As many as seven in-
sane persons are in prison atthesametime. One
poor, wretched object I observed chained in a cell.
Gyves were placed round his bare leg, and
fastened to a strong ring in the centre of the
apartment. He looked exceedingly ferocious—and
no wonder!—from the barbarous treatment he re-
ceived. I did not conceive it possible to witness
such a sight in any portion of the Queen’s do-
minions. Another demented creature laboured
under the delusion that he was going to be burned.

A MANIAC. 127

The day preceding my visit he made his way to
one of the lofts and buried himself in oakum,
so that the jailer thought he had effected his es-
cape. My presence in the prison seemed to have
augmented his delusion, for he remarked :

‘Ah, I know ’tis all over with me now. Iam
to be burnt directly, and you have come to ar-
range all about it!” :

Nothing that I could say seemed to alleviate
the horrible impression. Of course, you cannot
reason a madman out of his delusions; perhaps
you rather augment his disease by the endeavour.
I had not left the cell in which the wretched
maniac was confined many minutes, when one of
the prisoners rushed up to the jailer and informed
him that when the poor fellow had his dinner
served up, he seized a knife and attempted
self-destruction by making a wide gash in his
throat! Surely, it is highly objectionable that
the insane should be sent to such places, where,
so far from assuaging their mental maladies, they
are certain to become aggravated.

‘‘ Inspectors say that there is no room for any
more inmates in the lunatic asylums, and hence
they are thrust in here, to the great disturbance
of prison order and decorum.”

Such was the explanation afforded to me in
extenuation of a grievous injustice and inhu-

128 ENGLISH AMERICA.

manity, which the Legislature should speedily
remedy.

From the “ General Rules and Regulations for
the Common Gaols, framed by the Board of In-
spectors under the Consolidated Statutes,” I find
that the responsibility in such cases devolves on
the sheriff. Rule twenty-six is to the following
effect :—

‘Under our present laws, unfortunate luna-
tics are frequently placed, provisionally, in
prison. While there they should be treated with all
tenderness and care, and bestowed as carefully as
circumstances will permit. It is, however, to be
recollected that a common prison is altogether
unsuited for these afflicted creatures, and it is
therefore the duty of the sheriff*to take such
steps as the law prescribes for the early removal
of persons of this class to a proper lunatic
asylum.”

CHAPTER VIII.

LUNACY IN LOWER CANADA.—THE ASYLUM AT
BEAUPORT.

Lunatics Originally Confined in Religious Houses—Their Con-
dition and Treatment—Sir C. Metcalfe’s Philanthropic Exer-
tions in their Beha!‘—First Receptions of Insane Persons
at Beauport Asylum—Pleasurable Emotions Created in
their Minds by the Change of Scene and Discipline—Descrip-
tion of the New Building and the Grounds—Patients and
their Occupations—Rationale of Treatment Adopted—Library
and News Room—Effects of Religious, A¢sthetical, and
Social Observances—Singular Examples of Mental Aberra-
tion—The Beauport Type of Insanity,

In the picturesque village of J3eauport, distant
nearly five miles from Qvebec, the Lunatic
Asylum for Lower Canada is situated. The his-
tory of this institution is interesting, if only as
an illustration of the growing intelligence, philan-
thropy, and enterprise of our colonists.

Towards the close of the last century an order
in Council was passed, authorising an appropria-
tion for the maintenance of insane persons in
the Lower Province. Individuals labouring under
aberration of mind were at this period entrusted
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130 ENGLISH AMERICA.

to the care of certain religious eommunities in
the respective districts of Montreal, Quebec, and
Three Rivers. The Government granted an an-
nual sum of 32/. 10s., or 1s. 8d. per diem, for
the support of each patient, besides making occa-
sional trifling appropriations for the repairs of the
buildings in which such persons were confined.
As in similar European institutions at the period
alluded to, the insane were deprived of liberty on
the grounds of being unmanageable, and dangerous
to the community, or to themselves. Few, if
any, measures were adopted for their restoration
to reason. They were incarcerated in separate
cells, where the light and air of Heaven seldom
penetrated ; were shut out from intercourse with
the world and each other, and left to brood in
sullen solitude over their disordered fancies until
they became demoniacal, rent their garments, and
until, finally, what was but temporary cranial dis-
organization, ended in hopeless insanity or idiotcy,
from which appalling condition death alone deli-
vered them. Occasionally, perhaps, a patient was
removed by his friends; rarely, indeed, was one
discharged restored to reason. Over the portals
of those conventual receptacles for the mentally
infirm, might with truth have been inscribed the
well-known epigram of Dante :

‘‘ Lasciate ogni speranza, O voi che intrate.”

PHILANTHROPIC EXERTIONS. 131

From time to time urgent representations were
made to the Grand Juries with reference to
the general unfitness of those religious founda-
tions for the unfortunate inmates therein con-
fined. Not the least objections were the damp,
dirty, unventilated condition of the cells, and the
general maltreatment undergone by the insane
persons themselves. Even the ‘sisters’? were
desirous of being released from the grave respon-
sibility which they had charitably undertaken.
They repeatedly urged the unfitness of convents
as asylums for the insane, and the desirability,
and even necessity, for better means of accommo-
dation. :

Shortly after Sir C. Metcalfe had assumed
the government of the Canadas (in 1843), in his
speech at the opening of the Provincial Parlia-
ment, he advocated the importance of an im-
proved system of treatment for the mentally
afflicted. Accordingly, in the course of the
Session, one member gave notice of his intention
to bring in a bill to provide for the supervision
and proper management of this class. Owing,
however, to press of business, the Session passed
over without any direct action being taken in the
matter. During the recess, with praise-worthy
philanthropy, the Governor-General caused the
various religious establishments in which the

1382 ENGLISH AMERICA.

insane were incarcerated to be visited by Inspectors
specially appointed for that purpose. These were
authorised to prepare estimates of the cost at-
tendant upon the removal to the country of such
patients, together with the amount required for
their due care, maintenance, and medical treat-
ment. The Governor-General, at the ensuing
meeting of the Legislature, again brought the
subject of asylums for the insane before the House.
But the Session was very short, and no further
reference was made to the matter.

During the summer of 1845, his Excellency
having entered into an agreement with three
eminent medical gentlemen, directed that such
insane persons as were then confined in the dis-
tricts of Quebec and Three Rivers, should be re-
moved to the temporary asylum prepared for their
reception at Beauport. To this building they were
accordingly transferred in the month of September
following. The property whereon the asylum
stood was leased for the purpose from Colonel
Grugy, M.P.P., and comprised the manor house
and extensive block of out-buildings, together
with about two hundred acres of land. The
grounds were diversified, sufficiently well-wooded,
had a southern aspect, and commanded a fine
view of the city and harbour of Quebec. At this
time insane persons belonging to the district of

OPENING OF THE INSTITUTION. 133

Montreal were immured in the common gaol of
that city—a place destitute of almost every re-
quisite for a lunatic asylum. It was densely
surrounded by buildings; there were no grounds
attached on which the patients could be employed ;
the yards were narrow and insufficient for the
purpose of exercise; and, moreover, the structure
itself was needed for more legitimate uses. Under
these circumstances, Sir C. Metcalfe ordered the
removal of lunatics from the gaol to the more
fitting asylum at Beauport, the principal building
of which vas rendered capable of accommodating
one hundred and twenty patients.

On the 15th September, insane persons in
charge of the nuns of the General Hospital in
Quebec were transferred to the new institution.
One of these wretched creatures had been confined
during twenty-eight years; several for upwards
of twenty years; and the remainder for lesser
periods—shut up in separate cells, in a low, one-
storied building, surrounded by a strong cedar
fence twelve feet high! None of these miserable
oeings had ever been permitted to leave the hos-
pital—most of them not even the cramped cells
in which they were immured. Excepting on an
occasional visit from the Grand Jury, they had
rarely seen a human countenance save those of
the attendants who administered to their urgent

134 ENGLISH AMERICA.

wants. Of these patients nearly all had contrac-
ted abnormal habits ; many were destructive,
and the remainder either partially imbecile or
wholly idiotic—

‘* Monstrum horrendum informe horribile ingens.”

On the 28th of the same month, fifty-two insane
persons were removed from the gaol in Montreal
to the pleasantly situated institution at Beau-
port. Collectively they were much more intrac-
table than those previously received from the
other districts. As, however, their minds were
less weakened by protracted confinement they be-
came more amenabie to the mild curative régime
so humanely adopted and successfully pursued by
Dr. Douglas and his excellent colleague, Dr.
Frémont.

The following month seven additional patients
were brought down from Three Rivers; their
condition being most deplorable. They arrived at
Beauport chained and handcuffed. Some of them
had been kept fastened to staples driven into the
floors of their respective cells—an inhuman pro-
cess which I have myself seen adopted in the gaol
of Quebec! When first approached these vengeful
victims to ignorance and neglect, manifested a
disposition to bite even when their hands and feet
had been released. After a short residence in the

INTERCOURSE OF THE INSANE. 135

asylum, they grew extremely innocuous and
docile.

Upon the arrival of the various batches of
patients at Beauport, highly pleasurable emotions
are said to have been excited in their breasts
by the view of Quebec, the river, the trees, and
the people who passed and repassed the adjacent
road. Dr. Douglas informed me that it was
most interesting to have witnessed the propriety
of their conduct, to have observed their actions,
listened to their conversation with each other, and
the amazement with which they regarded every-
thing around them. All traces of ferocity,
turbulence, and acerbity had suddenly vanished.
They found themselves again in the world, and
treated humanely; so they endeavoured to merit
a continuance of such kindness. One patient, a
man of education and even talent, whose mind
was in fragments, but whose recollection of a
confinement of twenty-eight years was most vivid,
wandered from window to window. He perceived
Quebec in the distance, and knew it to be a city.
He could comprehend ships and boats being on
the river and in the bay, but he could form no idea
of steamers. Before quitting the hospital, the
‘¢ sisters”? had clothed him and given him a pair
of shoes. He remarked that he had been “a
long time shut up, and that nineteen years had

136 ENGLISH AMERICA.

transpired since he had last seen leather.” Another
patient, who had been immured twenty years and
always evinced a turbulent disposition, demanded
a besom and commenced sweeping lustily, insist-
ing that the other patients should likewise employ
themselves. He observed to the physician :

‘¢ These poor people are all fools. Now, if you
will give me a constable’s staff, you will see how
Pll manage them and make them work.”

The effects of a mild and soothing system of
treatment were soon apparent in the improved
health and spirits of the inmates of Beauport
Asylum. They became stronger, eat and slept
better, and some improved so far as to be restored
to reason. In the majority of cases, however,
mental disease had grown chronic or organic, and
the faculties of the brain had been so weakened
by long disease as to preclude any possible hope
of recovery. On the Ist October, 1845, the
number of insane persons in the temporary asylum
was eighty-two. From that period, to the Ist
October, 1848, there were admitted two hundred
and thirty-four cases, the greater number of
whom had, for years previously, been subjected
to treatment that tended to confirm and aug-
ment their mental maladies, Of these cases
forty-three were brought to the institution within
one year, suffering from a first attack of disease.

a eee Tre

THE NEW BUILDING. 3137

Twenty-one of the latter were discharged, only
two of whom subsequently exhibited symptoms of
relapse.

The temporary asylum having become inade-
quate to accommodate the number of insane
periodically crowding its wards, Dr. Douglas and
his colleague entered into a further arrangement
with the Government. The result was, that an
elegant and commodious structure was erected on
the same property, which is indisputably a com-
mendable monument to private and philanthropic
enterprise. The building is constructed of grey
limestone, hammer-dressed, and laid in courses.
It is roofed with slates—a very unusual thing in
Canada—and surmounted with a handsome dome
and lantern. The frontage, including the wings,
is four hundred and eighteen feet in extent. The
edifice itself consists of two stories, with base-
ment and attics—the former being devoted to
offices and furnace rooms. Apartments appro-
priated to the physician and superintendent are
on the first story. On either side is a refectory,
forty feet long, together with extensive corridors.
The remainder of the story is divided into dormi-
tories. The attics embrace large work-rooms in
front, and sleeping rooms in each wing, at the
extremity of which the “lodges ” are situated,
consisting of four day and thirty-two sleeping

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138 ENGLISH AMERICA,

rooms. Heat is supplied by means of seven
furnaces placed in the basement story. Hot-air
flues of German brick distribute in winter the
heated air equally throughout the entire building,
while, in summer, the same assist in maintaining
a system of complete ventilation. The asylum is
lighted by gas manufactured on the premises—a
very complete apparatus having been imported
from Scotland for this purpose. The gasometer
is placed in a stone building specially prepared
for its reception, and the gas is produced from
coal at an expense little above the cost of oil;
while the trouble, dirt, smoke, and danger
inseparable from the ordinary means of lighting,
are avoided.

The original kitchen, not sufficing for culinary
purposes, & new one was constructed of stone (forty-
five feet by twenty-five feet in extent and two stories
high) in the rear of the principal building. The
upper stories are appropriated to dormitories for
the domestics. By the aid of steam and gas the
cooking is now exclusively effected. This ar-
rangement is found not only cleaner, but more
efficient, manageable, and economical than the
usual method ; while, at the same time, it prevents
the risk of fire. The house formerly devoted to
laundry purposes and the manufacture of gas has
been greatly increased in size, in which is erected an

THE OUTHOUSES AND FARM. 139

English-made tubular boiler of thirty-five horse-
power, which generates steam for cooking, and
for warming the workshops and a portion of the
centre building. A range of workshops have
likewise been constructed for blacksmiths, tailors,
shoemakers, and other handicraftsmen, whose
labour is turned to profit and mutual advantage.
Bedsteads, beds, boots, shoes, and clothing—
in fact, almost everything needed by the patients,
are manufactured in the establishment.

One inndred and fifty acres of land are under
cultiv:,.:cu, the field-work being entirely per-
formed by the inmates. Cattle are reared
on the farm, and daily slaughtered to supply
the wants of the institution. The Riviére
des Taupieres flows along three sides of the
asylum, affording an abundant supply of the
purest water. This is conveyed to large cisterns,
placed in different parts of the building, by
means of cast iron pipes, from a subsidiary reser-
voir situated on the north side of thestream. A
powerful force-pump in the basement acts as a
fire-engine, and is connected with a cast-iron
pipe that traverses the institution. In this pipe
several fire-plugs are inserted, to which India-
rubber hose can be attached. Similar plugs are
fixed to the water pipes in each lavatory. Upon
the buil dings, lands, outhouses, bakery, and work-

140 ENGLISH AMERICA.
shops, upwards of twelve thousand pounds have
been already expended. Every architectural
arrangement and modern improvement that
could in any way conduce to the comfort, enjoy-
ment, welfare, and safe keeping of the insane,
have been adopted, without regard to the
pecuniary sacrifice thereby involved.

The rationale of treatment adopted, while
it embraces supporting and tonic measures,
is yet far from altogether ignoring or rejecting
moderate local depletion and other antiphlogistic
remedies. It does not appear, from what I could
learn, that pharmaceutic treatment, per se, has
influenced the results to any marked extent; while
the moral treatment, sedulously pursued, has in-
variably been accompanied by corresponding bene-
ficial results. This remedial mode of action may
justly be regarded as the most important and the
most difficult that could be undertaken, because
it depends principally for its judicious exercise
upon observation and experience. It may ve
defined as the employment of means best fitted
to restore the sufferer to a healthy habit of thought
and action. Of the various modes by which the
patients are induced to practice self-restraint,
regular employment is found to be most effica-
cious. Those kinds of occupations are preferred,
both on moral and physical grounds, which are

141

EXERCISES AND AMUSEMENTS.

accompanied by considerable bodily action—are
agreeable to the patient, and opposed to the illu-
sions of his disease. In accordance with these
views the male patients are occasionally em-
ployed in the extensive farm and gardens (con-
taining one hundred and sixty acres) connected
with the institution, with the happiest effects
both as regards their general health and ultimate
recovery. Other employments have been intro-
duced, but agricultural occupations are those
which have proved uniformly beneficial, and have
justified the estimation in which they are held.
Suitable out-door work has not yet been devised
for the women; useful labour having been found
more beneficial than mere physical exercise. The
consciousness to the insane of having done some
good, either for themselves or their fellow crea-
tures, affords them much satisfaction, and even
happiness. Such exercises and amusements as
bagatelle, back-gammon, and drafts, are powerful
remedial auxiliaries, and are therefore repeatedly
brought into requisition.

The asylum is supplied with a library, news-
papers, and magazines, which advantages are
eagerly seized and intensely enjoyed by a certain
number of theinmates. The pleasing and gently
stimulating entertainment thus afforded produces
a charm which only those who are mentally

vs 5 -

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142 ENGLISH AMERICA,

ostricised from society can rightly appreciate. If
the insane mind be considered as altogether
darkened, so that no interest can possibly be ex-
cited therein, owing to the incapability of mental
exertion, from such an hypothesis, it would logi-
cally follow that reading was productive neither
of pleasure nor profit. But I am confidently
informed that experience does not justify such an
assumption. The diet of the patients is liberal,
and the description of food does not differ from
that generally used by middle class society in
Canada. Very little restraint is employed, and
that rarely, and only under the most urgent cir-
cumstances. There is an ample and efficient
body of attendants, who are held personally re-
sponsible for their respective charges, and Dr.
Douglas is of opinion, that by unremitting care,
kindness, and attention, mechanical restraint may,
in a great measure, if not altogether, be dispensed
with. A leathern belt and wrist straps are occa-
sionally used for the purpose of preventing
patients, during periodical paroxysms, from inju-
ring themselves or others. For the same reasons
and objects they are sometimes immured in cells.
The average number of insane placed under such
restraint, or in temporary seclusion, does not ex-
ceed half of one per cent. Very few of the
patients are so utterly devoid of reason as not to

RULES AND REGULATIONS. 1438

P appreciate and conform to rules and regulations
, which they know are directed to their personal
, welfare and comfort. Religious rites are strictly
| carried out every Sunday—Protestant and Roman
Catholic chaplains being engaged for the ,\\";.08e

; of conducting their respective devotional services.
The effects of these zesthetical observances on the

minds of the patients, as remedial measures, have

been strengthened and confirmed by experience.

During the winter months a weekly ball is given

in the institution for the recreation of the in-

mates, to which friends are occasionally invited.

Indeed, the Beauport Asylum, with its cleanliness,

airiness, order, and arrangement, freedom from

restraint, amusements, and balls, may be re-

garded rather in the character of a large social

circle, or well-conducted private family, than as

a receptacle for the insane. To an ordinary

observer it is difficult, if not impossible, to dis-

tinguish many of the patients from their atten-

dants or visitors. The more harmless are suffered

to walk out daily, and they never abuse the

privilege accorded to them. The regulations for

the attendants and servants are extremely

stringent, and are rigidly enforced. For a minor

infraction of duty, the penalty is instant dis-

missal; for a greater violation of discipline—such

as ill-treating a patient—instant dismissal and

Si neh GEE

—— 4
fame ee.

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144 ENGLISH AMERICA.

reference to a police magistrate. In this, as in
every other respect, it has been found, that for
the prevention of transgression, the certainty of
the punishment is more effectual than its amount.
Such, likewise, is the doctrine laid down by
Beccaria, the eminent jurist, in his celebrated
treatise on “‘ Crimes and Punishments.”

I was accompanied over the ssylum, out-
houses, and grounds, by the principal physician
and proprietor of the estate, Dr. Douglas, whom
Thad met by appointment, and who has an elegant
private mansion adjoining the institution, desig-
nated by the title of ‘‘Glenalla.” Most favour-
ably was I impressed with the cleanliness, order,
and quiet that prevailed, and with the general
aspect of the inmates, four hundred and forty-
six in number, comprising one hundred and
ninety men and two hundred and fifty women.
The spectacle, however, was a sad and saddening
one. ‘‘ There was a time that when the brains
were out the man would die;” but here was
congregated a large community, labouring under
every known type of mental disorder, moving in
a world of their own, each indifferent to the great
world without, and living a kind of death-in-life
existence !

Judging from the physiognomies and bearing
of some of the most desperate lunatics, one would

DESTRUCTIVE PROPENSITIES. 145

imagine that they were the most gentle and harm-
less of human beings. But appearances, in such
cases, are very deceptive.

A meek-looking young man, who was possessed |
of considerable pecuniary resources, had committed
murder in Montreal the previous autumn. For
this offence he was tried, convicted, and, the
plea of insanity being received, was sentenced
to confinement in the asylum. Whenever he
imbibed spirituous liquors, his propensities be-
came homicidal; otherwise his general conduct
was irreprehensible, and such it continues to be.
There are several similar cases. In the yard I
observed a mere stripling, with whom I conversed
through an open window. Why, what crime
could that interesting, innocent-looking boy have
perpetrated? None, an ordinary and unprofes-
sional observer would unhesitatingly remark, had
he been thus interrogated. But, oh! ye secret,
mysterious workings of the human brain, how ye
baffle human penetration and defy human ken!
Yet, that lad, when but eight years of age, ex-
hibited a horrible and incorrigible propensity to
destroy whatever came within his reachh When
but ten years old he cut his infant sister’s throat,
and afterwards set fire to the house in which his
parents resided. Another gentle-looking young
man, the brother of a Montreal merchant, whom

VOL, I. H

| SR RE Nm Re SAE Sn

146 ENGLISH AMERICA.

one would suppose incapable of harming a fly,
used to gratify his destructive propensities when a
mere youth by cutting off the tails of his brother’s
carriage horses. For this offence he was com-
mitted to prison. During his incarceration, having
managed to get near a fellow-prisoner who was
using an axe in chopping wood, he succeeded in
getting hold of the weapon, with which he severed
the poor wretch’s head from his body. This
patient has been over fifteen years in the asylum,
and never gives trouble to his attendants. ;
Another inmate is an English woman, who has
been incarcerated ten years. She first met with
her husband when travelling in a railway carriage,
made a hasty match, and got married in Liver-
pool, Subsequently, she resided with her husband
and family at Sherbrooke, in the eastern counties
of Canada. Some time after her husband’s
decease, she laboured under the delusion that she
had a commission from Heaven to break all the
windows of widows’ houses. Armed witha plen-
tiful supply of stones, she accordingly went
abroad, and commenced the work of demolition.
Of course she was secured and finally transferred
to the asylum. A female of middle age has been
an inmate of the institution for fourteen years,
Unhappily she had been seduced when a girl; and
this misfortune so preyed upon her mind that

SINGULAR DELUSIONS. 147
eo

incurable insanity is the result. The poor creature
appeared exceedingly wild and intractable.

‘‘'Who is that English gentleman?” she re-
marked to the doctor; ‘“‘he murdered my father
and myself !”’

A third female patient delusively fancies that
she is afflicted with all manner of diseases at the
same time, and gives much trouble to the
physicians. The butcher to the establishment
possesses a capital knowledge of all that apper-
tains to cattle, but his madness is characterised
by excessive garrulity.

“He would talk till to-morrow,” said Dr.
Douglas to me, “ provided he had any listeners.”

One case is very peculiar. It is that of a man
named Marshall, who was once employed for
several years as a clerk in the Commissariat De-
partment. He imagines that he has been ill-used,
and that the British Government is. indebted to
him some fifteen millions of pounds. On the subject
of his peculiar grievance he has corresponded with
the late Duke of Wellington, from whom he re-
ceived an autograph letter assuring him that his
Grace would inquire into the case. Marshall’s first

demand was for the comparatively trifling sum of

75,0002. ; but as the War Office did not deem it

expedient either to acknowledge or liquidate the

claim, the authorities were informed that the
H 2

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148 ENGLISH AMERICA.

original amount would in future be decimally
calculated. A period of fourteen years had
elapsed since the original account was sent in;
which sum, having been decimally increased
annually, has caused the same to swell to the
prodigious aggregate previously stated. Every
six months this victim of an incurable delusion
makes out an elaborate account,—calculated and
rendered into Colonial currency, with the exactest
nicety,—which is duly forwarded to Lord Monck or
some other official personage. This poor maniac
talks very rationally, intelligently, and connectedly
on general topics; prominently exhibiting ‘‘me-
thod in his madness.” Some letters of his, written
to a gentleman in Quebec, are in my possession,
and as a psychological curiosity, are remarkable
in their way. Two of them are dated from the
“Cupola of the Queen’s Bethesda, Glenalla,”
another designation for the asylum.

Dr. Douglas related to me the following singular
story, which exhibits the curative advantages of a
lenient system of treatment in dealing with the
insane :

Several years ago a very bad case of mental
aberration was brought to the asylum. It was
that of a well-to-do farmer, a married man,
whose recovery wat considered all but hopeless.
After the lapse of several months this patient

A REMARKABLE CURE.

escaped, wandered about the country, and was
finally returned to Beauport. Hi

Dr. Douglas being addicted to fishing, was one ie
day induced to take this poor man with him on Fee
an angling expedition. He appeared highly |
delighted with the excursion and the sport. Next
morning, greatly to the surprise of the physician,
the patient requested that he might be suffered to
renew the same recreation, faithfully promising
, to return to the institution. After considerable
hesitation, permission was accorded; although
grave doubts were entertained of the man’s sii-
cerity. This privilege, however, was not abused ; ti
and as the patient seemed to improve by the gentle Heh
excitement the amusement occasioned, he was |"
allowed to indulge his predilections very frequently.

e Permanent recovery was the gratifying result.
D9 For three years this man has been residing on his
farm, in the full enjoyment of mental health. He 4
r keeps up regular correspondence with !):, Douglas, he
to whose leniency he attributes his freedom from
e | a malady with which he had been s0 long afflicted.

It appears that when a boy ke was passionately |
fond of angling. To the renewal of an employ-

ie ment, therefore, to which he was addicted in early a
n, life, is attributed his almost miraculous resturation. : :
S. There is a peculiar feature in this insti- il ' ,

tution, not observable in any similar establish-

150 ENGLISH AMERICA,

ment in the world, namely, the excessive presence
‘ of hereditary taint. The major portion of the
inmates consists of French Canadians, whose
mental disorders are aggravated by cretinism, and
whose individual cases are hopelessly chronic.
This terrible state of things is the result of inter-
marriage between the same stock. There are
now residing in the little village of Beauport,
several French Canadian families, whose prede-
cessors have for more than three generations in-
termarried together. It is no uncommon occur-
ence to have at one time in the asylum mothers
and daughters, brothers, sistexs, and brothers and
sisters. Nothing is more certain than that the phy-
sical and mental qualities of parents are congeni-
tally transmitted to their offspring ; and the same
law holds good with respect to the transmission of
specific and well-defined diseases, more especially
when of a mental character. The effects of in-
termarriage in deteriorating the species, became
palpable to my view while bziolding those mise-
rable creatures to whom the terrible curse had
been transferred. The divine human type seemed
either partially obliterated or entirely lost; and
one patient, a Roman Catholic priest, possessed a
countenance scarcely distinguishable from that of
a baboon—a most sad, sickening, and revolting
sight !

HEREDITARY TAINT. 151

One noticeable fact is, that out of four hundred ©

and forty-six patients, only seventy-five are Pro-
testants. It is well known by medical practi-
tioners who devote. their attention to mental
affections, that members of the Roman Catholic
communion, rarely, if ever, are affected with
religious insanity like those of Protestant com-
munities, simply because there is no such
stimuli for the imagination in its peculiar doc-
trines, and because its votaries do not trouble
themselves to such an extent about matters of
intellectual faith. The great preponderance of
Roman Catholics in the asylum would, therefore,
be unaccountable were it not apparent that such
a result was traceable to congenital causes. The
insane of both sexes are divided into seven specific
classes, and treated according to principles which
have been found to work beneficially. They are
all addicted to the use of snuff and tobacco, and
some evince a strong craving for money. I dis-
tributed a few coins among some of the women;
but I was shortly surrounded by a clamorous
group of bedlamites, from whom I had difficulty
in effecting my escape. Although the Beauport
Asylum is a private undertaking, and exclusively
dependent on the proprietors with regard to its
domestic management, still the treatment of the

OAL CELIAC BONELESS

152 ENGLISH AMERICA.

inmates is subject to the control of a Board of
Commissioners, appointed by the Government,
who pay for the insane an annual subsidy of one
hundred and forty-one dollars, or thirty pounds
each.

Large, airy, and well-arranged as the asylum
is, it cannot be denied that its advantages are
more or less deteriorated by overcrowding; so
much so, indeed, as to have attracted the attention
of the authorities. Itis clear, therefore, that the
institution is insufficient for the increasing wants
of the Lower Canadian population.

Dr. Douglas, the principal of the institution,
is a remarkable man. A Scotchman by birth,
he is possessed of that sagacity, shrewdness,
and perseverance, for which his countrymen are
generally proverbial. Although “ silvered o’er
with years,” he is nevertheless wiry and ener-
getic. His success with the insane is unpre-
cedented—a circumstance borne out by the fact,
that, notwithstanding having from time to time
under his charge the most violent and morbid of
patients, not one of them has succeeded in com-
mitting suicide. Every winter the doctor makes
a pilgrimage to Egypt, where he passes much
time in exploring interesting localities; and, as
he perfectly understands photography, in taking

A FISHING EXCURSION. 153

views of the chief monuments of antiquity.
These he has collected into several quarto
volumes, together with typographical descriptions
and explanations from the agile pen of his son,
the Rev. Mr. Douglas.

Having inspected the asylum, we adjourned to
dinner. After that repast was finished, we started
off in a light barouche a distance of several miles
for the purpose of fishing in the river St. Charles
—angling being a favourite sport with the doctor.
For part of the way the road was pleasant to get
over, but when we reached the mountain the jolt-
ing between broken pieces of rock and deep ruts
was excruciating. In fact, we had to make a
highway, in the absence of a regular road. For-
tunately the horse did not break his neck,
though he endangered ours. We could not get
nearer than within a mile of the river, owing to
the deep decline, and other obstructions; so we
had to walk the remainder of the distance. The
sight of the river had an exhilarating effect upon
my companion, who, having prepared his line,
walked right up to his hips in the water without
taking the trouble to change his garments. I
was not exactly in the proper mood for fishing,
and certainly was determined not to get wet for
the sake of the questionable pleasure the occupa-
tion afforded. Consequently, I angled for some

H 5

SDPO MLA DLLME BOT DEE»

154 ENGLISH AMERICA.

time on the brink of the river, but my industry
not being rewarded, I flung down my rod in
despair—not to resume it again. Dr. Douglas
continued in the water for nearly two hours, al-
though his “catch” was bu‘ indifferent—anything
but a commensurate recompense for his industry.
Finally, quite tired out, we started off by the
way we came, encountering similar, if not more
formidable difficulties than before.

was truly glad when I reached Glenalla
again, where I was regaled with some of the fish
my host had caught. Later in the evening we
adjourned to the * Kgeyptian Museum”—a saloon in
the house, filled with numerous relics and mum-
mies, discovered or procured by the doctor while
in the East. In this sanctum sanctorum, quite
unique in its way, I spent a highly agreeable
evening, squatted on an ottoman, @ da Turque,
drinking very strong coffee and smoking Turkish
tobacco out of a genuine chebouque-—rather a
pleasurable contrast to the sombre experiences of
the day. The night of suffering that ensued,
however, I shall never forget. The tortures in-
flicted on Tantalus were light compared to mine.
Whether it was the effect of visiting the asylum,
of drinking the coffee, of smoking, or of the three
combined, I cannot say, but my brain became
excited to a high pitch. No amount of cham-

DREAM FANCIES. 155

pagne it would be possible to imbibe could have
produced anything like the abnormal condition
under which I laboured. Even when tired nature
had induced brief snatches of intermittent repose,
my half-extinguished thoughts reverted, with
stubborn obstinacy, to the harrowing scenes of
the previous day. Again I observed, in all their
hideous deformity, and with keener perception,
the glaring eyes, the dejected looks, the imbecile
acts, and heard the wild shrieks and clamorous
importunities, of the several hundred maniacs
whom I had before encountered, until—O, horror
of horrors !—-I partially fancied that my own
brain had collapsed in presence of the crushing
spectacle.

eabichaa=~

Se ee ee Se ce Seat

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ALR BH

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156

CHAPTER IX.

MONTREAL.

Situation and Extent of the City—The “ Movutain ’—-Judicial
Divisions of the Province—Foundation of Montreal—Position
of an Early Governor—The Coureurs de Bois—Social and
Commercial Progrees--Railroads and Canals—Treusforma-
tions—The Corpors.tion— Assessed Property—Cons:icuous
Public Edifices—Eyesores—Scotch Setilers —Nelson’s Monu-
ment—The Volunteer bfovement-—Allegiance of the People
—Prince of Wales’ Fishing Olub—tvils of Garrison Life.

MontrREAL is an island thirty-two miles long and
nearly eleven miles broad, covering an area ex-
ceeding ten thousand acres. It is situated at the
confluence of the Ottawa river with the St. Law-
rence, and is distant from Quebec one hundred
and sixty-eight miles. The town was originally
laid out by imperial command, when Canada
formed part of the French empire, so that vessels
could proceed as high up the channel as possible.
To the eastward the shores are several feet above
the level of the St. Lawrence, but fall lower in
the opposite direction towards Lachine. There
are two mountains in the vicinity, the larger of
which is situated to the rear of the city, and
ornamented with numerous handsome villas and

FOUNDATION OF THE CITY. 157

gardens. Its summit is densely covered with
trees. Round this circular hill is a favourite and
fashionable drive, affording a prodigiously ex-
tended prospect, over which the eye wanders
admiringly. On the eastern side of the ‘“‘ Moun-
tain” are luscious orchards, which in the season
supply choice fruits of delicious flavour, among
which may be mentioned the Pomme de Neige
and the Pomme Gris.

This city was once the capital; but now simply
forms portion of a district. The entire Province
is judicially divided into five districts; three
superior, embracing Quebec, Three Rivers, and
Montreal, and two inferior, such as St. Francis
and Gaspé. These all possess courts of judica-
ture. In the superior districts the jurisdiction of
the Court of Queen’s Bench is unlimited; but is
circumscribed in the inferior by the power of ap-
peal. It is imperative that all prosecutions for
capital offences be heard in the courts of superior
districts.

Montreal, the second city in political dignity,
but the first in commercial importance, of English
America, presents an agreeable and interesting
study, no less for the philosopher than the tra-
veller. It was founded in 1642, by one M. de
Maisonneuve, Governor of the Island, on the site
of an Indian village, called Hochelaga, and dedi-

158 ENGLISH AMERICA.

cated, amid public rejoicings, to the Virgin Mary
as its patroness and protectress. For a long
time it bore the appellation of Ville Marie. In
1644, this beautiful domain became the property
of the Sulpician Or cr at Paris, by whom it was
subsequently transferred to the Seminary of the
same religious fraternity at Montreal. Ever since
1663, when Louis XIV. resumed his right over
the island, and changed its direction from an
ecclesiastical mission to a temporal government,
has its prosperity increased. Under British rule,
especially, its commercial progress has been
marked. But what a striking contrast does Mon-
treal present in this year of Grace, and during
1735, at which time Baron Lahontan visited it ?
when M. Perot, the governor, had but a thousand
crowns a-year salary, and was driven to trade with
the savages to augment his resources—when the
bailiff of the town got nothing by his place—
when merchants effected two hundred per cent. in
exchanging comparatively worthless kettles, axes,
knives, and such commodities, for valuable skins
and furs—and when, in fine, the streets of Mon-
treal witnessed the dissipation and rioting of
pedlars, called Coureurs de Bois, who lavished,
eat, drank, and played all away, so long as their
goods held out; but when they were gone, sold
their embroidery, lace, and clothes, until they

PROOFS OF PROGRESS. 159

were compelled to make another perilous voyage
for subsistence.

The city is laid out in the form of a parallelo-
gram, and contains about two hundred streets,
and a population, within the city limits, of ninety-
One thousand, nearly one-half of whom are
French, and the remainder of British and other
origins. An additional population of ten thou-
sand four hundred occupy the suburbs, augmenting
the total number of inhabitants to one hundred
and one thousand four hundred. Montreal pre-
sents the appearance and possesses the elements
of a great and growing city. Within the short
space of nine years its population has increased
over thirty-two thousand, and during the same
period its entire aspect has changed. Tangible
signs of progress, strangely blended with the
decayed and decaying relics of the past, meet the
traveller's eye on every hand. The contrast is
most striking and agreeable. In a leading street
may be observed an old tottering shanty, with the
walls rickety and the wooden roof falling in, the
height of the fabric not having been originally—
that is when it stood erect—more than that of an
ordinary sized man. Alongside of this odious-
looking, over-grown sentry-box, rises up amassive
structure of elaborately cut stone, haughtily
frowning down upon the humble neighbouring

160 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tenement. Commerce is a mighty magician,
truly. In an incredibly short time her magic wand
makes the solitary places glad, and the wilder-
ness to rejoice and blossom as the rose. Another
evolution of her mystic sceptre—more potent
than the golden wand of Mercury or the fabled
power of Midas—and rude huts are transformed
into stately palaces, and Indian canoes converted
into mighty ships that sweep the ocean against
wind and wave !

Montreal has indisputably made rapid strides
during the last dozen years, and is still pushing
forward with rapidity and energy. Dilapidated
buildings are constantly being razed, and fine
massive structures take the place of unsightly
ones. Several of the modern edifices are not
inferior to the public buildings of Liverpool or
Manchester—while a few of them may even vie
with those of London.

Although the unfortunate American struggle
had materially injured the Canadian trade—as it
has similarly affected the commerce of European
countries—still the bustle and din of industry
were unceasing in the streets of this noble city ;
nor were the spirit and enterprise of’ its thriving
denizens much damped, or cramped, by the tem-
porary lull under which many branches of com-
merce laboured. Montreal, being at the head of

SPIRIT AND ENTERPRISE. 161

the ship navigation, possesses peculiar local
advantages for trade and commerce. The rail-
roads and canals, already in successful operation,
will, doubtless, in due time, considerably enhance
her business facilities and resources. The city
corporation consists of twenty-seven members,
and the annual revenue from assessed property is
considered to reach one hundred and sixty thousand
dollars, which sum is freely expended in effecting
city improvements.

To speak truly, I was scarcely prepared to find
the “island city” so noble, prosperous, and
thoroughly British. The tangible evidences -of
commercial greatness and social advancement
were unmistakeable. Everywhere my eye alighted
upon public buildings, not only substantial, but
ornamental and unique. Now, when it is con-
sidered that splendid churches, a court-house,
banks, a fine market hall, groups of warehouses,
stores, and handsome private residences, besides
the Victoria Tubular Bridge, have mostly sprung
up during the last few years, there can b> no
hesitation in awarding due merit to the Mon-
trealers, whose social progress has been so un-
paralleled. It will not be considered an elimination
of truth to affirm, that few people on the whole
continent of America have manifested so much
spirit or enterprise. A number of manufactories

162 ENGLISH AMERICA.

have likewise been established within the past five
or six years, worked by water power, while the
inventions for the economisation of human labour
therein are singularly ingenious. But to these I
shall, by and by, more fully refer, as I attach
great importance to the manufactories of a country,
for they afford a fair criterion by which to form
an estimate of a people.

Conspicuous among the public edifices are the
English Cathedral and the Cathedral of Nétre
Dame, each unrivaled in its way. The former is
a rare specimen of skill and beauty. One draw-
back is the site, which happens to be low,
although the lofty ‘ Mountain” in the back
ground enhances its picturesqueness. One Sunday
morning I attended the service, and was pleasingly
but strongly impressed by the aptitude and atti-
tude of the worshippers. I have not seen, nor
would I desire to see, a more respectable, decorous,
and even devout congregation. The spacious
building was well filled, only a few seats being
vacant. I shall never forget the effect produced
upon my mind when one of the officiating priests
read the following passage of our beautiful
Liturgy :—

‘¢O Lord, save the Queen :”

Nor the fervour of soul with which the congre-
gation repeated the response :—

SCOTCH SETTLERS. 163

‘And mercifully hear us when we call upon
Thee.”

It was the best refutation of the calumnies
so busily bruited about Canadian disloyalty. Dr.
Fulford, the metropolitan, is in high repute, and
enjoys the reputation of a distinguished scholar.
The discourse I heard from him was both eloquent
and practical.

Throughout the Province the French element is
singularly unprogressive; doubtless, therefore,
the old Saxon and Celtic blood has rendered
Canada what it is. In perambulating the streets
of Montreal, and while observing the fine modern
warehouses and stores, built of cut-stone, I was
struck by the number of Scotch patronymics,
both engraved on brass plates and painted over the
doors. In fact, Scotch merchants and manufac-
turers are amongst the wealthiest and most im-
portant men in the country. I was for a
time the guest of Mr. Thomas Morland (formerly
of Wigtonshire, in Scotland) who, besides being
a merchant, is the proprietor of an extensive
saw manufactory. This gentleman occupies a
very high social position in his adopted city.
Although but a young man, he is a justice of the
peace, president of ever so many boards, and
officially connected with several charitable insti-
tutions. I mention these facts to show that

164 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Scotchmen, when they thrive in Canada, do not
forget those higher claims and duties that devolve
upon members of a social community.
Notwithstanding there is much in Montreal to be
admired, there is much also to be condemned.
People erect fine houses and imposing public
buildings, but seem to ignore those minor im-
provements which, however apparently trivial, are
of great consequence to a flourishing city. The
pathways and roads are almost as bad, and in
some instances worse, than in Quebec. In the
leading streets the pathways are composed of dif-
ferent materials. Here and there was a small
patch of flagstone in a most dilapidated condi-
tion. A little further on was a brick pavement,
not at all unsightly or unpleasant to walk upon,
provided the bricks are not broken to pieces, rough
or uneven, which was too frequently the case.
Adjoining this again was a plankway, with the
boards either rotten from age or partially devoured
by rats—a species of animal that flourishes wonder-
fully in a Canadian climate. The roads were
equally faulty, and became impassable after much
rain. The drainage, too, was very imperfect ; and
I should not be surprised if much illness was
engendered thereby. In the neighbourhood to
the rear of St. Lawrence Hall—a palatial hotel,
kept by a warm-hearted Irish gentleman, who

NELSON’S MONUMENT. 165

is major of a Militia regiment—property had be-
come so depreciated that land and residences were
to be procured comparatively for little: or nothing.
Still, few purchasers could be obtained, and all
owing to defective drainage. One night I visited
the Theatre Royal, situated in this locality, but the
odour became so offensive that I was compelled
to quit the house during the performance of an
interesting comedy. With such a rapidly increas-
ing population as Montreal possesses, the munici-
pality should have done something effectual towards
obviating so dangerous an evil. The public
health is at least as deserving of attention as the
“almighty dollar.” It is not when a great
plague shall have broken like a storm-cloud over
a fated city that remedies are to be applied.
Nelson’s Monument in Notre Dame Street
forms an important ornament to Montreal. It
consists of a handsome Doric column, enriched by
mouldings of artificial stone, rising to an altitude
of fifty feet. On the summit is a square tablet
surmounted by a full-sized statue of England’s
naval hero, habited in full uniform, and decorated
with various insignia. The face of the statue
looks towards the west, while the countenance
appears as if intently watching the termination of
some mighty event. Resting on a square pedestal
about eleven feet from the ground, this monument

166 ENGLISH AMERICA.

has a highly imposing effect. The pedestal itself
is embellished on all sides with figures emble-
matical of events in Nelson’s life, viz., the battle
of the Nile, the interview with the Prince of
Denmark after the engagement off Copenhagei,
and the battles of the Nile and Trafalgar. One
or two of the panels are particularly neat in
their design and execution; such, for instance, as
the elegant figure of a crocodile in bas-relief
emblematical of the battle of the Nile. The
plinth of the base is further ornamented with
cannon and other appropriate trophies, together
with a cireular laurel wreath surrounding the
annexed inscription :—

In Memory of
The Right Honourable Vice-Admiral Lord Viscount NELSson,
Duke of Bronté,
Who terminated his career of Naval glory in the Memorable
Battle of Trafalgar,
On the 21st of October, 1805,
After inculcating by Signal
This Sentiment,
Never to be forgotten by his Country,
“ ENGLAND EXPECTS EVERY MAN WILL bo HIS Duty,”
This Monumental Column was erected by the
Inhabitants of Montreal,
In the Year 1808,

The statue surmounting the column is formed
of arfificial stone. It is recorded that when it
Jay in the manufactory in London, a sailor who

had served under Lord Nelson, found his way in,
and, struck with the resemblance of the figure to

DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. 167

the original, embraced it enthusiastically, ob-
serving :~—

‘*This is a grand figure of the noble admiral.
I hope it is made of good stuff, and will be as
lasting as the world !”

““T have nothing to fear on that score,” replied
the artist, ‘for his lordship has been in a hot
fire for a week without intermission.”

‘¢ Ah, master,” rejoined the tar, “‘I find you
know something about the character of the brave
admiral; for there never was a British officer
that could stand fire better than he!”

It is due to the inhabitants of Montreal to
mention that a strong desire was evinced by them
to protect the rights and liberties which they
enjoy under British rule, should occasion
arise for an exhibition either of their patriot-
ism or their resistance. Nor were the Irench
Canadians found wanting in their allegiance.
For example, immediately after the ‘“ Trent
affair,’’ the Honourable M. Coursol, Judge of the
Sessions, proposed to the Government to raise a
regiment of French Canadian Volunteers within
a month. This proposition was accepted, and
within a brief period the services of thirteen com-
panies had been tendered to the authorities. Ten
of these companies were formed into a regiment,
duly placed under the instruction of compe-

168 ENGLISH AMERICA.

tent drill-sergeants, and continued their exercises
throughout the entire winter. Early the following
year arms, accoutrements, and overcoats were
distributed to them. When officially inspected
along with other volunteer troops, they exhibited
considerable acquaintance with military duties,
and their discipline was excellent. During my
stay in Montreal, their summer clothing had
arrived from England. This regiment is called
the 4th Battalion Volunteer Rifles, or Chasseurs
Canadian, and is under the command of Lieut.-
Colonel Coursol.

The volunteer movement in the “ island city,”
exhibited unmistakeable signs of energetic life,
and was daily growing in effectiveness and im-
portance. To the kindness of Colonel Dyde, the
commandant, I am indebted for the following in-
telligence respecting the condition of that defensive
organization in Montreal.

The active force, technically termed ‘ Class A,’’
consists of eleven regiments, embracing

2 bone of Cavulry.
1 Fiel ane |

2 Companies Foot Battery.

1 Regiment Foot Artillery.

1 Regiment Light Infantry.
1 Company of Engineers.

1 Regiment (Chasseurs Canadiens) Rifles.
1 Regiment (Hochelega) Light Infantry,

1 Regiment Royals (5th Infantry).

1 Regiment (Victoria) Rifles.

1 Regiment (Prince of Wales) Rifles,

THE FLOWER OF THE ARMY. 169

These form combinedly a force of three thousand
four hundred men, although generally estimated at
four thousand five hundred. When the Prince of
Wales was in Montreal he reviewed the last-
named regiment on Logan’s Farm, and was so
well pleased with its soldierly bearing that he
honoured it by allowing the same to be called
after himself. On that occasion it was com-
manded by Colonel Wily, who has since been
superseded by another officer. In addition to
the Volunteer Regiments above enumerated, there
is also a sedentary force, which, if necessary,
could be speedily organised. It amounts to about
nine or ten battalions; but it is to be hoped that
no occasion will arise for the services of either
being brought into requisition. I do not mean to
reflect invidiously upon the loyalty of the French
Canadians of Quebec, when I state that the same
class in Montreal have evinced deeper attachment
to British rule.

As nearly as I could learn there were over four
thousand British troops located in the city, some
in temporary barracks. These may be regarded
as the flower of the army, and consisted of the
Royal Artiiiery Corps, four hundred and ninety-
three privates and twenty-four officers; the
Royal Engineers, one hundred and thirty-one
privates and nine officers; the Military Train,

VOL, I. I

A aroma ee UP) ing a

170 ENGLISH AMERICA,

two hundred and twenty-eight privates and
eleven officers; the 1st Battalion Grenadier
Guards, eight hundred and seventy-five privates
and twenty-five officers; the 2nd Battalion Scots
Fusilier Guards, eight hundred and sixty-three
privates and thirty-six officers; and the 16th and
47ih Regiments, consisting respectively of eight
hundred and fifty-nine privates, thirty-six offi-
sere, and seven hundred and seven privates. and
thirty-two officers. The appearance of the troops
ou parade afforded much pleasure to the citizens ;
and when the military band performed on stated
occasions in the Champ de Mars, the public was
generally attracted thither. Of course such a
large body of troops imparted great animation
to the city.

Amongst the few private clubs in Montreal is
one called ‘The Prince of Wales’ Fishing Club.”
It has been established for some years, and is so
extremely exclusive as to be limited to eight
members. One day I was invited by the presi-
dent to join himself an: a iew friends ina fishing
excursion. Although no ardent disciple of Izaak
Walton, I readily consented, for there is a charm
even in novelty not to be despised. Early in the
morning of the day appointed, I started from my
hotel with one of the members, and proceeded to
the president’s residence, where, besides having

A LOYAL FISHING CLUB. 171

a substantial breakfast, we fortified ourselves
internally with a spirituous concoction known in
Scotland as Athol-brose—the most insidious and
yet delicious compound I have ever tasted before
or since. After breakfast we proceeded in a car-
riage to the wharf, taking with us a ponderous
hamper well stocked with viands of various des-
criptions, and sundry bottles of wine and brandy.
Having got on board the “ Jessy”—I believe
that was the name of the boat—we were kindly
received by the commodore, Dr. Norton, and
others. Ina short time we pulled off from the
shore and were moving up the St. Lawrence ata
brisk rate, the boat’s flag, ornamented with the
Prince-of Wales’ plume, gaily streaming in the
wind. Upon arriving as far as St. Nicholas
Island, at the mouth of the Chateauguai River,
fifteen miles:from Montreal—near to the Falls of
St. Anne, where Moore lovated the scene of his ad-
mirable * Canadian Boat Song’—we disembarkec’.
Over a square piece of rock, a snow white cloth
was laid, upon which was spread a repast that
would have stimulated the stomach of the most
dyspeptic. As boating on a river—and especially
such a river as the St. Lawrence—is a great pro-
vocative to appetite, we all sat down with hearty
gusto and {partook of our president’s hospitality,
I 2

172 ENGLISH AMERICA.

which was more than every desert island could
afford.

While upon the island the members of the
Prince of Wales’ Fishing Club privileged me by
enrolling my name as an honorary member—the
first elected. In attestation of the act I received
from the president a document, of which the
following is a copy :-—

THE PRINCE OF WALES’ FISHING CLUB.

WALTER MACFARLAN, Esq., President,
The Hon. T. D'Arcy M’GrEE, M.P.P., Vice-President,

S. PHILLIPS Day, Esq., has been elected Honorary Member,

WALTER MACFARLAN,
DoNALD MACFARLAN,
JOHN THOMPSON,
JOHN NORTON,

St. Nicholas Island,

19th July, 1862,

Having returned to the “ Jessy,” rods and
tackling were prepared, and we all entered con
amore upon an agreeable day’s sport. The junior
were first pitted against the senior members, and
a spirited but well-tempered rivalry was sustained
for several hours, as to which party should make
the larger “catch.” I was naturally pleased that
the “juniors” gained the victory over their
superiors in age and angling experience. After a
very delightful excursion we arrived towards dusk

Oo ev

er,

EDITORIAL AMENITIES, 173

at Montreal, jaded and sun burnt, with the
trophies of our day’s toil.

There are four newspapers in Montreal, which,
considering how public journals are managed in
Canada, seem fairly conducted. Most of the
space is devoted to advertisements, und these are
frequently printed in such prominent type as to
give the journals a very unsightly appearance.
An editor’s post I consider rather a sinecure in
English America. Editors write littlek—perhaps
have little to write about; at all events, the two
or three columns of each journal devoted to news
are generally made up of short paragraphs.
Sometimes these savour of personal pique, after
the manner, as painters say, of the Yankee
prints. One day the scribe of a certain paper
informed the scribe of another that he was
‘‘training for the gallows” the boys who sold
his journal in the streets. The organ editorially
referred to was an evening print, entitled the
Witness ; which certainly, to do it justice, did not
lay claim to great pretensions. Its editor was
‘Ca northern man,” from New Orleans, from which
city he had to retire upon offending the secession-
ists, who, I was informed, threw his type into the
street and broke up his press. I was amused one
very wet evening by a little ragged urchin enter-
ing the vestibule of the St. Lawrence Hall, having

174 ENGLISH AMERICA.

a bundle of the Witness under his arm. Both
the papers and the vendor were equally saturated
with the rain. At first the papers were offered
for a ‘“‘ copper” each (one half-penny), the legi-
timate price. After a while they became depre-
ciated in value, and were to be had “ two for a
copper.” Finally, as there was but slight prc :-
pect of selling one, the poor shivering urchin
roared out, ‘The Witness, the Witness; three
for a copper!” but no one seemed to think them of
value even at such a reduction. Upon ascertain-
ing that the lad, who certainly was most per-
severing, had lost sixpence by his purchase, I
handed him this emall amount, partially to get
rid of his presence and importunities.

Some cf the graver evils attendant upon garri-
son life were, unfortunately, but too apparent
during my stay in Montreal. Two military mur-
ders had taken place, while cases of insubordination
and mutinous conduct on the part of soldiers, were
of frequent occurrence. Scarcely a week passed
without acourt-martial having been held upon some
delinquent. Threats, especially, seemed to have
been freely indulged in; while in more than one
case premeditated assassination had been arrested
in an incipient stage of perpetration. Onenighta
gunner of the 10th brigade of Foot Artillery,
named Farrel, was discovered in bed with his

SCENE ON THE CHAMP DE MARS, 15

carbine and ammunition concealed beside him.
This man was accused of having uttered threats
against the life of a corporal connected with his
brigaue. Shortly before Private Morrissey, of
the 16th Regiment, No. 4 Company, while en-
gaged at rifle practice at Chamb!) made similar
menaces to Colour-Sergeant Ra When
arrested a bayonet was discove:.u concealed
beneath his clothes. Again, two privates of the
47th Regiment deserted from St. Helen’s Island,
near Montreal, taking with them their clothing,
accoutrements, and other articles. One of the
deserters was the soldier on duty as sentry, who
actually fired at the party in pursuit, wounding
- one man in the shoulder. Their arrest, however,
was effected a few miles from the city, while the
fugitives were en route for the Western States.
On these men courts-martial were held in due
course; the reading of which was attended by
public ceremonies, one of which I witnessed.
One Monday afternoon all the troops in garri-
son were ordered out for parade on the Champ
de Mars, an enclosed piece of ground east of the
town. Although no public notification had been
made of the occurrence, an immense concourse
of people assembled to witness the cere-
mony of sentences of courts-martial being
read against two military delinquents. The

176 ENGLISH AMERI(A.

crowd was so dense that but for the kindness of
my friend Judge Coursol, who admitted me to
the window of his private room in the Court
House, I should have been unable to witness the —
proceedings. Battalions were formed intocolumns
on three sides of a hollow square, the Royal
Engineers and the Military Train occupying the
vacant side. The space in the centre was appro-
priated by Major-General Lord Frederick Paulet
and his staff. After the preliminaries had been
arranged the prisoners were conducted handcuffed
to the centre, guarded by a corporal and four men
with fixed bayonets. The Adjutant then read ina
firm, audible voice the detailed charges against each
prisoner respectively, and the sentences of the
courts-martial, namely, “that Privates McKay and
Bryan, having been found guilty of desertion and
mutinous conduct, should be branded with the
letter ‘ D,’ according to the articles of war, and
that the remainder of their natural lives be passed
in penal servitude.” The prisoners, who were
young men, stood uncovered during the reading
of their sentences, and seemed to feel acutely the
humiliating position to which their bad conduct
had reduced them. They were then removed
from the grounds under a strong escort, and con-
veyed on board the Quebec steam-boat. Sub-
sequently the troops were put through a variety

MILITARY INSUBORDINATION. 177

of evolutions. Having ‘marched past” in
double file, each commandant saluting Lord Paulet
and his staff, they were re-formed into square and
then into marching order, and left the field, the
bands of the several regiments playing gaily
meanwhile. The spectacle was both a sad and
an imposing one, and not devoid of a moral
lesson. A similar spectacle had occurred on the
preceding Monday, when Privates Morrissey and
Farrel were condemned to penal servitude for life
and ten years respectively.

I find that the subject of military insubordina-
tion has been attracting public attention in this
country, where similar offences have also been
frequent, and where a strong demand has been
made that some effectual check should be adopted
to prevent their recurrence. The same reason
that operated some years since in inducing the
authorities to prohibit soldiers from carrying fire-
arms when off duty, might be applied to the
removal of their ammunition from barrack
dormitories. What necessity can there be for
rounds of cartridge being hung at the head of a
soldier’s bed ?

|
1
a9

CHAPTER X.

INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES AND SOCIAL CONDITION
OF THE ‘‘ISLAND CITY.”

Mr. Anthony Trollope’s Strictures—The Victoria Iron Works—
Nails and Nailers—Rolling Mills—Scientific Process of Pud-
dling—The Royal City, and Canal Flour Mills—Economiza-
tion of Labour—The Canada Marine Works—Vicissitudes of
the Confederate Privateer, Sumpter—The Sugar Refinery—
Advantages of the Lachine Canal—The Montreal Ocean

Steam Ship Company — The Geological Museum—Educa-
tional Institutes—Condition of Criminality.

Ir is to be regretted that Mr. Anthony Trollope
should have dismissed Montreal in so off-hand
and cavalier a manner when treating of that city
in a recent publication. Had the respected
author of ‘‘ North America” but have taken a
little more pains, he would, assured’y ve dis-
covered that there were many persons ...u things
in the thriving city of Montreal worth knowing
and seeing beside Sir William Logan and the
Geological Museum. [cr miles along the banks
of the Canal he might have observed factories
clustered together, from which the hum of in-
dustry constantly went forth, passing over

MANUFACTORIES. 179

altogether the busy marts and temples of com-
merce within the city itself. To some of these
factories I performed a daily pilgrimage; and I
must confess that I was pleasingly astonished at
the resources of the country and the enterprise of
its people.

The manufactures of a city or country, no less
than their ordinary commerce, must be viewed as
so many elements of prosperity and material
wealth. I reiterate that those of Montreal
surprised me much. I was not prepared for the
discovery I had made. Within the past five or
six years, or even a briefer period, a variety of
manufacturing resources have been developed.
Along the banks of the Lachine Canal—the basin
of which is two hundred and fifty feet wide—
factories and mills are closely congregated ; the
machinery of each being altogether worked by
means of water-power. One leading feature of
these establishments is, that machinery is made
to do what in the old country is accomplished by
human hand. In Canada labour of this descrip-
tion is scarce; and hence, ingenuity or necessity,
which we are told is the ‘* mother of invention,”
has been exercised to beneficial purpose.

Having been supplied with letters of introduc-
tion to the principal manufacturers and mill
proprietors, I eagerly set about visiting the

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* gin s st ee ee ee

180 ENGLISH AMERICA.

prominent objects of interest. The first manu-
factory to which I wended my way was the
Victoria Iron Works (the reader will observe how
loyal the people are), where I noticed a rolling-mill
for nail plates in operation, specimens of which
article had been sent to the late International
Exhibition. This mill turns out twelve tons per
day, chiefly from Scotch pig iron, puddled at the
works. One hundred and twenty hands are em-
ployed, and two thousand tons of plates were
produced during the working months of 1862.
The works were commenced as recently as 1859,
and, I believe, were the first of the kind started
in the Province. There is another rolling-mill in
the suburbs of the city, and two nail and spike
factories, in one of which I lost my hearing for
some minutes, owing to the deafening clamour of
the heavy cutting machines—fully a dozen of
them being simultaneously in operation.

And here let me crave the reader’s indulgence
while I say a few words respecting nails and
nailers ; two very necessary aids to civilization.
English wrought nails were exclusively employed
in Canada before the year 1851. Shortly after-
wards the manufacture of cut shingle nails was
established at Montreal ; but although larger cut
nails were imported into the Upper Province from
the United States, those manufactured in Eng-

NAILS AND NAILERS. 181

land continued to be used in Lower Canada,
board and larger cut nails growing gradually into
use. For a number of years these descriptions of
nails were manufactured at Sault au Recollet and
Lower Lachine by means of water-power, and by
steam-power in the city. At present all nails
are produced by water-power, supplied from the
Canal.

Until the establishment of rolling-mills, in
1857, nails were cut from imported sheets and
hoops (shingle nails are still cut from such);
but since these mills ha\> been erected a dimi-
nished quantity of sheets are imported, and the
mills turn out the remainder. The two puddling
and rolling-mills of Montreal are capable of
supplying nails in sufficient number to meet the
requirements of the entire Province. During the
six months ending November, 1861, the estab-
lishments of Messrs. Peck and Snell, proprietors
of the Victoria Works, have manufactured about
three thousand tons of nail plate. The quantity
of this material imported for the five years end-
ing 1859, averaged four thousand tons per
annum. In 1860, about two thousand tons of
nail plate were produced from “scrap” iron, but
since then it became apparent that the available
quantity of that material was entirely inadequate
to supply the mills. This circumstance has led

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a — nemnaeenlle ~~ trnentitih nei mkicdine 2 pais -

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182 ENGLISH AMERICA.

to the erection of puddling furnaces at both
mills, and, necessarily, to the importation of several
thousand tons of “pig” metal, chiefly of Glengar-
nock, Collness, and Blair Brand, which is tech-
inally called ‘“ No. 4 iron,” a close-grained metal
known better in England as “forge pig,” and
adapted for the manufacture of malleable iron.
Several hundred tons of ore have likewise to be
periodically imported, most of which comes from
the mines at Port Henry and Lake Champlain.
The furnaces are constructed of fire-bricks,
brought from Jersey City and Troy, about one
hundred thousand of which had been used during
the year. The fire-brick and fire-clay, at
present imported from Great Britain, although
admirably adapted for foundry purposes, are of
no use whatever for ‘puddling,” or heating
furnaces. Apropos of heat, let but the reader
fancy the author wending his wary way through
those immense factories—furnaces to the right of
him, furnaces to the left of him, seething and
flaming—and on one of the hottest days of a
Canadian July!

Perhaps a brief description of the process of
‘‘puddling” may be alike interesting to the
scientific and non-scientific reader. Nearly all
metals are capable of being broken to atoms just
at the instant they become fused, heat having

PR a,

PROCESS OF ‘ PUDDLING.”’ 183

destroyed the cohesive affinity of their particles.
This is precisely the case with pig iron in the
puddling furnace. Having first been brought to
the required temperature, the broken metal is
charged inio it when the flame is fully turned on.
And here it becomes necessary to observe that a
puddling furnace is composed of chambers that
receive the metal over which the flame from the
grate passes, and the heat of which is intensified
by the refraction from the low roof. As soon as
the metal is about to become fused, the fire is
slackened by means of a damper on the chimney
top; and the charge, having acquired a kind
of semi-fluidity, is easily broken into minute
pieces and scattered over the furnace. At the
same moment the temperature decreases the
entire mass thickens, and the cohesion of
the atoms is destroyed, when the iron
breaks down into the consistency of cream.
Cinders and other refuse are next thrown
on. The damper is then lifted and he
flame turned on, so that the molten mass under
operation in a few seconds begins to heave,
swell, and emit jets of deep blue flame, which is
termed ‘‘ fermentation.” This dark blue flame
is a highly important feature in the process, and
is occasioned by the escape of bicarburet of

*

184 ENGLISH AMERICA.

sulphur, a most injurious compound if suffered to
remain in malleable iron. The stirring or
‘‘puddling* is now vigorously continued, when
the iron begins to drop, or “ dry,” as it is termed ;
the fermentation ceases from the exhaustion of
carbon; and the metal appears to clot or become
tenacious—a process technically known as
‘coming to nature.” Next, it is gathered into
balls; when, having been exposed to a strong
welding heat for a few minutes, these balls are
removed to the ‘‘ squeezers” for the purpose of
imparting consistency to the iron, as well as
giving to it the necessary shape. Finally, it passes
through the “rolls,” when it comes out a long
puddled bar of rough malleable metal. - The
fibre—upon which the strength of all malleable
iron depends—is occasioned by this compression.
The entire operation does not occupy more than
two hours. The bars are then allowed to cool,
when they are removed to a powerful shears, cut
up into the required lengths, piled, heated in a
furnace, and finally rolled out into the sheet iron
of commerce. This ‘puddling” process is,
perhaps, more deserving of the appellation of
scientific, than any other branch of iron manu-
facture. At all events, it is very instructive and
interesting. I candidly avow, however, that I

-_

O Vs Oo OR Ww FRY?

oO Ow a2 @

FLOUR MILLS. 185

should not like to again bear the intense heat to
which I was subjected for the purpose of wit-
nessing the same process a second time.

The quantity of coals consumed by the two
manufactories to which I have alluded, amounted
in 186! to six thousand tons, a large portion of
which was brought from the Albion mines of New
York. In the works of Mr. Snell, only Picton
coals are used, as the furnaces for both puddling
and heating are supplied with blast, to which a
strong coal, like that of Picton, and being free
from sulphur, is especially adapted.

There are three immense flour mills at Montreal,
called the Royal, the City, and the Canal Mills,
through the first of which I was politely conducted
by one of the proprietors. These structures are
not so extensive as the great flour mills of Rich-
mond, Virginia, which I had seen the year before;
nevertheless they are very capacious, and possess
peculiar features of novelty. The warehouse por-
tion of the Royal Milis is one hundred feet in
height by seventy-five feet wide. It has a frontage
of one hundred and sixty feet, while the milling
department is sixty-five feet square and seventy
feet in elevation. The building has eight stories,
and from the gravelled flat roof a fine view is
had of the busy city and the St. Lawrence. These
mills contain forty-four grain bins, having a

186 ENGLISH AMERICA.

depth of from twenty-four to thirty-six feet,
while the capacity of the warehouse exceeds two

hundred thousand bushels. The grinding capacity

of the mills is reckoned at eight runs a stone;

there are four millstones, and every two make

what is called “arun.” Five hundred barrels

of wheat can be ground daily with ease. The

most remarkable feature about these mills is the

introduction of ‘ elevators,” by means of which
a wonderful economy of human labour is realised.

The elevators are worked by water-power and
remove grain from vessels to the bins. One was
in operation during my visit, and I was surprised
to find that, while grain was being taken from a
barge in the Canal up into the warehouse and
weighed, it was transhipped into another vessel
lying alongside. By means of elevators a barge
could be loaded or unloaded in an hour; a pro-
cess that would otherwise occupy an entire day,
even with the assistance of a larye number of
hands. There is a “ barrel elevator” in the mills
for the purpose of raising barrels from one story
to another. Even the very barrels are filled and
weighed by means of machinery. The complica-
ted and varied work of the Royal Mills is accom-
plished by the aid of twenty men and boys—an
economisation of labour truly wonderful. The
proprietors are Englishmen. The grandfather of

THE MARINE WORKS. 187

one served in the British army, and he himself
fought in the Rebellion—a true Loyalist I will be
bound.

Among the objects of interest are the Canada
Marine Works, covering fifteen acres of ground,
upon which are erected a foundry, boiler, and
finishing shop supplied with all kinds of modern
tools. The machinery is driven by a condensing
steam engine, besides a large sawing and planing
mill worked by steam-power. A considerable
portion of the ground is employed as a shipyard,
containing two basins, each five hundred feet by
one hundred feet in extent. This property was
purchased by the present proprietor about seven-
teen years ago From 1845 to the autumn of
1862 inclusive, ninety-four vessels were built and
launched from this yard. These were principally
constructed for the lake and river navigation; the
models combining the highest speed with the great-
est carrying capacity on a light draught of water.

Among these vessels may be mentioned those
excellent steamers plying between Montreal,
Toronto, and Hamilton, that connect the Lake
Erie steamers and all the Great Western travel
to Chicago, with those on the Ottawa route; as
well as the numerous vessels that are engaged in
the intermediate traffic of all the small towns and
villages on the St. Lawrence and its tributaries.

188 ENGLISH AMERICA,

At the Marine Works were also built the steamers
Beaver and Muskrat, for Messrs. Jackson, Peto,
and Co., the Grand Trunk Railway contractors.
The last mentioned vessels were employed exclu-
sively to assist in the construction of the Victoria
Bridge. After a while the railway company had
so much interfered with the carrying trade that
ship building was almost brought to astand still,
—the engineering department entirely so. In
consequence of this depression the proprietor was
compelled to look abroad for orders that could not
be procured at home.

For this purpose he journeyed to Cuba, where
he fell in with a merchant named Don Pedro
Lacoste, with whom he entered into a contract
(in the spring of 1858) to build a steamer on the
screw-propelling principle. The vessel was ac-
cordingly completed, named the Colon, and dis-
patched for Cuba in the month of November fol-
lowing. Subsequently she was sold to run
between Havanna and Vera Cruz, when her name
was altered to that of the Marquis de Habana.
During the civil war in Mexico she was purchased
by General Merriman, in order to be employed as
an armed steamer, and was one of the two vessels
captured at Vera Cruz by an American frigate,
and taken to New Orleans, where she lay till the
winter of 1860-61. She was finally disposed of

THE SUMPTER. 189

as a prize ship, and received the appellation of
the Sumpter. This vessel is no other than the
celebrated Confederate privateer, the daring ex-
ploits of which during the American troubles
have become so notorious. So much for the
vicissitudes of a ship!

During the year 1861 the carrying trade had
increased to such an extent as to supersede in a
great measure the monopoly so long enjoyed by
the Grand Trunk Railway. The consequence was
that an impetus had been given to ship-building,
so as to revive this branch of industry, and
afford pleasing indications of a rapid increase.
The workshops at the time of my visit were again
open, having been leased to a person who carried
on the engineering department therein, which
business had likewise partaken of the general
improvement. The proprietor of the works was
then completing the construction of a dry dock,
formed out of one of the basins. This dock is
sufficiently capacious to accommodate four of the
largest steamers that navigate the river and the
upper lakes. From its commanding position,
being far above the highest flood that can affect
the St. Lawrence, it is admirably suited for
general purposes and for winter quarters. In
going over the yard I noticed a steam-boat on the
stocks, which, I was informed, made the number

190 ENGLISH AMERICA.

of vessels constructed here exactly one hundred
and eleven.

The Sugar Refinery is likewise an object of
interest. It commenced work in January, 1855,
and had, accordingly, been in operation seven years.
About seven-eighths of the white sugar consumed
in the Province are produced here; the remainder
being imported from various countries when the
price happens to fail a little lower than the cur-
rent value of that article in Montreal. The
capacity of the works is equal to the requirements
of Upper and Lower Canada for several years to
come; that is if immigration does not set in very
rapidly. The great difficulty experienced consists
in the extremely limited market that the country
affords for refined sugar. for this reason the
manufacture of the commodity is discontinued
during ‘two or three months every year. The
quantity of raw sugar consumed in Canada is
estimated at about seven thousand tons annually ;
the product being white and yellow sugar, and a
moderate quantity of syrup. The refinery estab-
lishment of Messrs. Redpath and Co. is very
complete, being replete with every modern im-
provement. The building—which is extensive—
machinery, etc., cost fifty thousand pounds, while
an equal amount of capital is employed in carry-
ing on the business. The animal charcoal re-

QB Ss ww |S Ww

THE LACHINE CANAL. 191:

quired in the manufacture is made on the
premises, the gas from the bones being used to
light the same. But I must say no more on
this head, lest percharce I should be the innocent
means of creating in the reader a disgust for
refined sugar.

In addition tothe factories enumerated there are
several others that I had not leisure to inspect,
such as the Steam Saw Mills, the Oil and Colour
Works, the Candle Works, the Chemical and
India Rubber Works, and an immense establish-
ment for the manufacture of doors, window-
frames, etc., by means of water-power. The
existence of such places is indicative of the
energetic character of the people and of the
growth and wealth of the city.

To the facilities afforded by the construction
of the Lachine Canal, all those results I have
been describing must, of course, be attributed.
This Canal was executed by the Provincial Go-
vernment at a cost of two millions of dollars; but
the pecuniary benefits that have, and will arise
from this outlay, are beyond computation. Not
only has it enabled vessels to pass the Lachine
rapids, but it has afforded manufacturing facilities
equivalent to at least four million horse-power.
It has, in fact, revolutionised primitive ideas, so
that where the tottering wind-mill once stood is

192 ENGLISH AMERICA.

now erected imposing water-works, built strongly
enough to last for ages. To the same cause may
likewise be traced the material and commercial
prosperity of Montreal itself, which this Canal
and the works upon its banks have converted
into the grand trading and manufacturing centre
of the Province.

Incalculable advantages have accrued not only
to Montreal, but to the whole Province, by the
establishment of steam communication between
Canada and Great Britain. In these benefits
this country largely participates. Buta few years
ago and the voyage from Quebec or Montreal to
Europe would occupy six or seven weeks, and in
case of adverse winds, considerably longer. Du-
ring this time the Provincial Government had
been directing its energies and resources to the
development of the Canadian trade; a conside-
rable portion of which has been diverted into
American channels. As the large subsidies
granted by the British and United States Govern-
ments to their respective lines of steam-
vessels, operated injuriously upon the colonial
commerce, it became absolutely necessary that a
direct mail service between Canada and Liver-
pool should be founded. Accordingly, a postal
contract was entered into between the Canadian
Government and Mr. Hugh Allen, of Montreal,

ATLANTIC PASSENGER TRAFIC. 193

for the conveyance of mails fortnightly to and
from Quebec ir summer, and Portland, Maine—

the eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway— -

in winter. At length a weekly service was esta-
blished, the Colonial Government granting a
subsidy of eighty-four thousand pounds annually
for this purpose. |
The **Montreal Ocean Steam Ship Company” has

proved a desideratum of no ordinary importance.
It possesses a fleet of seven vessels, ranging from
one thousand seven hundred to two thousand five
hundred tons burden. All these are first-class
ships, specially built for the Canadian trade, at a
cost of over half a million sterling. The service,
notwithstanding its well-known dangers, has
been maintained with singular regularity. For
example, the average passage during the year
1861 was thirteen days to westward and. twelve
days to eastward—a result which compares favour-
ably with that of any other line crossing the
Atlantic. The number of passengers carried in
1861 was twelve thousand two hundred and

seventy-nine; or about three thousand eight hun-

dred and seventy-five eastward, and eight

thousand four hundred and four westward; while

in 1862, the number conveyed was expected to
exceed that of any previous period. This line of
transit has decidedly one advantage, namely, that
VOL. I. K

Seen Soanianene nae
Sees
. S

. a ity SRR. a + i

194 ENGLISH AMERIOA.

the distance from Liverpool, vi4 Derry and Cape
Race, is two hundred and fifty miles shorter than
that of New York. During the summer of 1856,
this line was partially opened, but the weekly
voyages were not regularly instituted before the
spring of 1859. The ‘ Montreal Ocean Steam
Ship Company’s”’ fine fleet of vessels are run at
an annual outlay of three hundred thousand
pounds, which immense sum has to be provided
from the passage monies, freights, and the
subsidy paid by the Canadian Government.

It is rather a singular anomaly that while
Great Britain contributes largely to postal com-
munication with almost all her other colonies
and dependencies, as well as with foreign
countries, from Canada alone does she receive a
contribution to her postal revenue, without be-
stowing any recompense. In 1857 the Post Office
revenue of Great Britain received from Canada,
through her mail service, five thousand six hun-
dred and seventy two pounds, and in 1860 over
eleven thousand pounds; an amount likely to be
augmented year by year.

The ‘* Montreal Ocean Steam Ship Company”
also possess a line of steam vessels which ply
every three weeks from Montreal to Glasgow,
and vice versa.

Upon visiting the Geological Museum I was

SIR WILLIAM LOGAN. 195

greatly edified, if not instructed. Mr. Anthony
Trollope says that he ‘ could have listened to Sir
William Logan for the whole day” discoursing
on geology, although he understood nothing of
that science. At the time of my visit Sir William
happened to be in England at the International
Exhibition (where, by the way, there were some
choice specimens of Canadian ores and marbles),
so I was politely conducted over the Museum by
my friend Mr. Sterry Hunt, F.R.S., who spoke
eloquently and unctiously upon such hard and dry
subjects as stones, fossils, and flints. An elaborate
discourse of an hour’s duratiun upon geology and
mineralogy, although entertaining, did not leave
me much wiser than before. I had an opportu-
nity, however, of further admiring the pure, un-
flagging devotion with which scientific men
devote themselves to their profession. Sir
William Logan’s acquaintance I was fortunate

enough to make on a subsequent occasion ; and I

was really charmed with the character and man-

ners of that distinguished scientific veteran.

And here it will not be irrelevant to mention

some particulars respecting the Geological Survey
of Canada.

This Survey, which is entrusted to a Commission
under the direction of Sir William Logan, was
commenced twenty years ago. It began on a
K 2

196 ENGLISH AMERICA.
comparatively small scale, but has grown in ex-
tent and importance as its results have become
more known and appreciated by the Canadian
people. Sir William Logan is aided in his
arduous labours by an assistant geologist, Mr.
Alexander Murray; by a mineralogist and
chemist, Mr. Sterry Hunt; and by a paleontolo-
gist, Mr. Billings—each of whom has acquired
an European reputation owing to his scientific
researches. In addition to these gentlemen there
is a staff of field explorers, artists, and draughts-
men. The task of the officers connected with
the Geological Survey in such a country as
Canada, is an exceedingly varied and onerous
one. In the first place, they must fulfil the
duties of land surveyors and topographical en-
gineers; for in many parts of the Province to
which their researches carry them, they find them-
selves necessitated to survey rivers, triangulate,
and, in short, to make a geographical map of the
country in which they may subsequently lay down
their geological observations, The labour of such
investigations is difficult enough in a country
like England, where accurate maps arfd good
roads are to be found. But in Canada the geo-
logical surveyor has frequently to draw his map
as he travels along, or to find his way on foot, or
in canoes (with Indian guides), through almost

NEW CANADIAN FOSSILS. 197

ie interminable miles of wilderness, where the foot
- of civilized man has never trod.
m The longitude of the principal points in Canada
ite * have been determined by the new method, which
Ar. employs the electric telegraph in transmitting ob-
vil servations from station to station. By this means,
tie together with the excellent Admiralty charts of
ad Admiral Bayfield, the Geological Survey had just
‘fo completed a large map of British North America,
peel the topographical details alone having occupied
ia several years in their execution. I was shown the
ith proof-sheets of this wonderful specimen of skill
ai and industry, upon which the draughtsman was
ae : inserting the names of places. So excellent was
the the penmanship that the lettering could scarcely ins
wie be distinguished from the fine copper-plate en- aed
i graving. Thedepartment in which this map wa We
vai being prepared, contained an innumerable variety
ate, of maps of all sizes, all of which had been con-

the . sulted in its construction. The engraving was a
executed in Paris, and certainly reflects great ree 4

pee credit upon those to whom the work had been
ntry entrusted.

ath The careful study and elucidation of the organic
ai, remains observable in Canadian rocks devolves
map upon Mr. Billings. This gentleman has already
, or ‘‘ fizured”’ and described several hundred new

fossils from Canada, and thus contributed, in no

198 ENGLISH AMERICA.
slight degree, to the advancement of North
American geological science. Iwas intensely in-
terested by hearing explained how the study of a
minute fossil shell has furthered the identifica-
tion of a metal-bearing formation, and thereby
proved of high economic importance. It would
thus appear as if fossils had become the Alpha
Beta of geologists. The study of the minerals,
ores, and mineral waters, in their chemical and eco-
nomical relations, is the “speciality” of Professor
Sterry Hunt, whose investigations, in what is
termed the ‘chemistry of geology,” have rendered
his reputation extensive in Europe no less than
in America.

That gentleman very patiently explained to
me the geology and chemistry of the famous
western Petrolium oil-wells, which he seems
to have made a particular study. <A large octavo
volume treating of the geology of Canada, wherein
aresummed up the observations scattered through-
out the geological reports of many years, was in
the press. It is illustrated with several maps,
which, together with the typography, so far as I
could judge from the proof-sheets, was executed
in a manner highly creditable to the Province.
The Museum itself is arranged upon the plan of
that in Jermyn Street, and includes specimens of
all the ores, marbles, building stones, and other

EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 199

economic materials of the country. I was
attracted by the large masses of rich iron ores,
similar to those of Sweden; by the fine marbles,
of which Canada possesses a vast variety; by the
roofing-slates and soap-stone; and by the litho-
graphic stones and granites. ‘Whe best specimens,
I was informed, had been removed to the London
Exhibition, the entire mineral collection from the
Province having been specially prepared under
Sir William Logan’s direction. One of the chief
attractions of the Museum consists in the collec-
tion of fossils. It includes many thousand
specimens, carefully moulded, attached to which
are brief printed descriptions. This institution,
so useful, instructive, and abounding with such
numerous geological specimens, is supported by
a parliamentary grant of about four thousand
pounds a year. I trust the reader will discover
that Ihave not paid quite an idle visit to the
Museum of Geology, and though I finding
much that had been told to me hard to digest
mentally, or associate in my mind with any definite
idea, nevertheless that I gathered some entertain-
ing, if not exactly instructive, information.

The educational institutions of Montreal are
numerous, and, judging from the various official
reports I have glanced at, are sufficient for the

* 200 ENGLISH AMERICA,

requirements of the population. The most pro-
minent of these is the McGill College—an elegant
and imposing structure, salubriously and promi-
nently situated in the west end of the city. The
Hon. James McGill, a prosperous merchant, by
his last will, bequéathed the estate of Burnside—
on which the college stands—containing forty-
seven acres of land, with the manor house and
buildings thereon erected, in addition to ten
thousand pounds, unto the “ Royal Institution
for the Advancement of Learning,” as estab-
lished by Act of Parliament in the reign of
George III. The only condition was that one of
the colleges to be comprised in the said university
should be named and perpetually distinguished
by the appellation of ‘McGill College.” At
the date of the bequest the value of the property
was estimated at thirty thousand pounds.

In 1856 a public meeting of influential citizens
was convened, to take into consideration the
financial position of the college, when the sum of
fifteen hundred pounds was raised. The revenue
derived from these sources has, however, proved
inadequate to meet the growing claims of the
institution ; while the legislative aids, upon
which the governors greatly depended, have been
materially diminished by the introduction of the

REVENUE OF THE COLLEGE. 201

system whereby the distribution of public monies
is made through the Superintendent of Education.
And here I may observe that only 19,092/., out
of the annual appropriation of 68,000/., for the
maintenance of superior education, are distributed
to the universities of Lower Canada, and to the
colleges and high schools that are nurseries to the
same. The principal portion of the grant, owing,
it is said, to the erroneous construction placed
upon the Act of 1856, is afforded to schools
simply of an elementary character, and scarcely
equal to those maintained out of the Common
School Fund.

Notwithstanding the partial assistance received,
and the exercise of rigid economy, the income
of the college still falls short by six hundred
pounds of the amount necessary to defray its
current expenditure, besides being burdened with
a debt of six thousand pounds, Professors,
teachers, and students are thereby alike impeded
in their work by the want of books, apparatus,
and other appliances, which deficiency the profes-
sors are often necessitated to supply out of their
own pockets. The absence of suitable accommo-
dation is likewise severely felt. The Faculty of
Arts, for example, has outgrown its apartments.
The rooms of the Faculty of Medicine are at least
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202 ENGLISH AMERICA.

inconvenient; while the Faculty of Law possesses
no class rooms for its special use. So great at
one time had been the pecuniary pressure, that
the governors were compelled to incur a personal
liability of eight hundred pounds to meet exist-
ing deficiencies and to carry on effectively the
educational departments of the institution.

The embarrassment under which the McGill Col-
lege unfortunately labours is ascribed to an unex-
pected degree of success. It may especially be at-
tributed to the rapid increase of a demand for that
higher education which it is the province of the
college to supply, and which the Board of Gover-
nors manifestly regard as their duty to provide,
even at the risk of overtasking the resources of the
foundation. Its rapid growth under such pres-
sure has been so far beyond what might rea-
sonably be expected, that it has become difficult
to make its income keep pace with its extending
usefulness. Unless sufficient means be obtained
from private or public resources it cannot possibly
be cvried on with the same degreé of efficiency.

Mr. McGill’s endowment was long anterior to
the establishment of any Protestant college in
Canada. Since then hundreds of thousands of
pounds have been bestowed, by annual appropria-
tions, upon Roman Catholic schools in Lower

WANT OF PERMANENT PROVISION. 203

Canada; while in the upper portion of the
Province several colleges have been established,
all of which participate more or less in the grants
of public monies. The University of Toronto,
for instance, enjoys an endowment of 226,000
acres of land, conferred by Royal grant in 1858,
from which a sum exceeding 294,000/ has been
already derived ; and yet in addition it receives a
bounty of over 1,100/. annually. Upper Canada
College—an institution founded in 1832 —was en-
dowed by various grants between that period and
1845, with 63,000 acres of land, which has yielded
55,434/., nevertheless it receives a periodical
gift of 1000/ sterling. It becomes the more
surprising, therefore, that no permanent provi-
sion has been made for McGill College, although
the gross emoluments received by that institution
from public sources, since 1854, do not altogether
amount to one quarter of the annual revenues of
the Toronto University, or to one tenth the value
of Mr. McGill’s bequest. Not only was the late
founder warranted in believing that his exertions
to establish a university would be supported by
a grant from the Crown lands, but the members
of the Royal Institution were subsequently led to
expect that they would have been spared the heavy
outlay of erecting college buildings, and that the

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204 ENGLISH AMERICA.

endowment would have been rendered available for
the future maintenance of the institution.

During 1819, Lord Bathurst, then Colonial
Secretary, instructed the Governor-General (the
Duke of Richmond) to adopt, with as little delay
as possible, the necessary measures for erecting
upon Mr. McGill’s property a suitable building
for the instruction of youth. His Grace was
authorised to defray the expense of the same
from the funds in the hands of the Receiver of
the Jesuits’ estates. For reasons, however, un-
known to the governors, these liberal intentions
were never carried into effect.

The McGill College is the only educational es-
tablishment in Canada of an unsectarian cha-
racter. As such, it possesses the confidence of the
Protestant community of every religious deno-
mination. The university affiliated therewith is
more than a mere private institution. It partakes
of a public, and even provincial character. Not
only does it confer degrees upon the stu-
dents of its own colleges, but, under certain
regulations, of those scattered throughout the
Province—a boon fraught with the highest ad-
vantages. The governing body is appointed by
the Crown, and is removable at pleasure. Lord
Monck, the Governor-General, is its visitor. Six-

ROMAN CATHOLIC SCHOOLS. 205

teen scholarships in the Faculty of Arts are at the
disposal of his Excellency. He possesses besides
the presentation to the same number of scholar-
ships in the High School department, a building
erected a considerable distance from the college
estate. These scholarships exempt the students
from the payment of tuition fees. There are thirty-
five professorships in the University, of which Dr.
John W. Dawson, F.G.S., is the Principal. The
increasing desire on the part of students to take
advantage of such educational facilities, is evinced
by the number that have matriculated from the
years 1854 to 1860 inclusive, namely, 97, 110,
154, 167, 174, and 205; thereby exhibiting a
progressive annual increase. In addition to these
must be included the teachers in training and
normal schools, as well as the pupils in high and
model schools; making an excess for 1861 of 528,
or a total number of students in connection with
McGill College of 833.

There are a variety of other educational in-
stitutions in Montreal, the good effects of which
will, in after years, be perceptible among the
community. The Jesuits, monks, and nuns,
have the education of the Roman Catholic youth,
much, if not altogether, in their own hands.
Annexed is an accurate statement of the number

206 ENGLISH AMERICA.

of scholars, male and female, in the Roman
Catholic schools at the time of my visit :—
DESCRIPTION OF SCHOOL. SCHOLARS,

Minor Seminary, conducted by the Priests of St. Sulpice 198
Students in bathe (same school) . . 50
e

St. Mary’s College (Jesuit Fathers) ‘ : 266
Schools of the Friars of the Christian Doctrine 8968
Schools of the Sisters of Nétre Dame . ° 8144
Schools for Male and Female Orphans . . 800
Schools of the Sisters of Providence . ‘ 419
Schools of La Maitrise . ‘ F ‘ 80
Schools of Salle d’Asile. : > ‘ 476 ©
Irish Independent Schools . ° . 489
Other Schools and Academies . A . 674
Jacques Cartier Normal School ° ° 58
Model School attached to same . " 121
Total number of Scholars . ° 10,238

The Protestant youth of Montreal have likewise
adequate provision made for their instruction,
The total number of Protestant children attend-
ing superior schools and academies amounted in
1860 to 3,946, making an excess upon the year
1859 of 263. For the above particulars I am
indebted to M. Chauveau, Superintendent of
Education for Lower Canada.

In the different school municipalities of Canada
East, the amounts levied during 1860 for primary
education were as follows:—Assessment, or vo-
luntary contribution to equal amount of grant,
114,424 dollars; a sum less by 1,368 dollars
than in the previous year. The amount of assess-
ment levied over and above that required to equal

SUPPORT OF EDUCATION. 207

the grant, and of special assessment for the liqui-
dation of debt, was 123,939 dollars, being an in-
crease of nearly 15,000 dollars compared with
the receipts of 1859, which exceeded by 20,779
dollars those of the previous year. It thus
appears that the sum levied by annual assessment
exceeds more than two-fold that afforded by
Government for educational purposes; the latter
being 116,000, and the former 238,364 dollars.
This result appears the more remarkable from
the face that when first it was suggested to
give the municipalities power to double the
assessment for educational purposes, people
raised their voices against the proposal, affirming
that no compulsion could be adopted, and that
they would not voluntarily consent to such a tax.
The returns for 1862 likewise exhibit highly
favourable results. Schools had increased by one
hundred and fifty-six during the year ; while the
number of pupils had been augmented by nearly
eight thousand, making the aggregate total
188,635. The contributions show an excess of
16,509 dols., having already increased 22,360 dol-
lars in 1861. Local contributions in support of
education amounted to 542,728 dollars, viz :—
CONTRIBUTIONS. DOLS.

Rates to equal the provincial eee . 110,966
Rates over ig amount , . 134,033
Monthly fee . . 281,930

Rates for building achool houses e ‘ 15,799

208 ENGLISH AMERICA.

When the Government grant of 110,966 dollars
be added to the above sums, it will give 653,694
dollars as the total expenditure for educational
purposes in Lower Canada in 1862. Over one-
i sixth of the population attended school, while the
i average contribution reached close upon sixty cents.

| per head of the population, or about three dollars
and fifty cents. for each pupil. The three Normal
Schools had two hundred pupils in attendance
during the season of 1861-62—90 male and 110
at female. Of the male pupils 4] were at the

lt Jacques Cartier, 10 at M’Gill, and 39 at Laval ; of
H the females, 58 were at M’Gill, and 52 at Laval.
The three schools have accorded the following
diplomas since their foundation :—Teachers of
academies, 16; model schools, 219; of common
schools, 274—total, 509. But as diplomas for
two or three grades have been successively
granted, the schools have really only educated
406 teachers. Of these M’Gill has educated 167;
Laval, 160; and Jacques Cartier, 72. Three
hundred and seven diplomas have been granted
to schoolmistresses, and two hundred and two to
schoolmasters, most of whom are employed in
teaching.

And now I shall give the reader a glance at
the dark side of the picture, namely, the criminal
aspects of Montreal. From the statistics

CRIMINAL STATISTICS. 209

furnished to me, I find that, in proportion
to the population, the number of delinquents is
exceedingly high. This circumstance is the
more surprising, as the active causes mainly in-
ducive to crime are not in operation to such an
extent in Canada as in the old country.

From the 1st of January, to the 3lst of De-
cember, 1861, the total number of apprehensions
were 7,802; 5,681 males and 2,121 females—a
large proportion out of a population of 96,000.
Of these apprehensions, however, 2,208 were
simply to afford protection to destitute persons,
so that but 5,594 strictly constitute criminal
offenders. But even these form a large array of
offenders for a single colonial city, where
labour is scarce and work well remunerated. I
fear, nay, I am convinced, that much of this
crime may be attributed to intemperance; for in
such respect, the habits of the people are far
from irreproachable. Those persons apprehended
for drunkenness, and for drunkenness combined
with disorderly conduct, numbered 3,655, or very
nearly one-half of the entire committals; while
the apprehensions and convictions for breaches of
the peace (possibly attendant upon inebriety)
amounted to 587. From the same statistics
I discover that juvenile delinquency is rather
predominant in the Montreal district. The total

210 ENGLISH AMERICA.

number of offenders whose ages ranged from ten
to twenty years is 1,108, or about one-seventh
of the entire criminal population. Taking the
total number of criminals, their nationality may
be thus classified: —Belonging to Ireland, 3,664 ;
French Canadians, 2,057; English, 1,024; Scotch,
527; British Canadians, 270; United States,
136; from other countries, 1,124.

The gaol of Montreal is a comparatively new
and substantial building, very well adapted for
the purposes of a prison. It is situated in the
suburbs. On the day of my visit (July 26th) it
contained three hundred and thirty-four inmates,
there being nearly an equal proportion of each sex.
Of that number thirty-one were untried. The aver-
age age of the prisoners was thirty years. During
the year 1861, the greatest number confined at
one time was three hundred and eighty-one.

CHAPTER XI.

FETES AND FEASTING.

Visit of the Governor-General — Civic and Military Display—

W Scene at the Wharf—The Public Reception—His Excellency’s

Reply to the Corporate Address—The Cortége—Concert at

the * Crystal Palace”"—Banquet at St. Lawrence Hall—The

1e Levée—Dramatic Performance by Military Amateurs—Grand
Review and Mimic Fight on Logan’s Farm.

8 THE first visit of the Governor-General to
Montreal was productive of unusual excitement.
Since the Prince of Wales honoured the city with
& his presence, no such enthusiasm had been mani-
" fested. On Monday, June 30th, the Mayor issued
a proclamation, embodying the official announce- Vi
ment that his Excellency would arrive in the ee
city at four o’clock p.m., on the following day, i ai
and inviting ‘‘the citizens generally to unite Wg
with the Corporation in giving a most cordial]
welcome” to the distinguished visitor. This
civic appeal seemed indeed a work of supereroga-
tion, so far at least as stimulating the loyalty of
the people was concerned; nor do I believe it
had much effect in enhancing the public display.
Lord Monck and his suite had left Quebec in the

212 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Queen Victoria (a small screw-steamer, specially
chartered for the occasion) on Monday evening,
and during his journey to Montreal, called at
Sorel, and other small towns, where he was
publicly received and presented with addresses.
About three o’clock on Tuesday, July Ist, all
the troops in garrison, in addition to several
Volunteer regiments, turned out in honour of the
occasion. The former were arranged in double
line along every street through which the cortége
was to pass, from the Wharf to the St. Lawrence
Hall, where handsomely furnished apartments were
provided for the noble guest, and his attendants.
Along the Albert Wharf a guard of honour,
composed of the Grenadier Guards, was drawn
up; a company of the Prince of Wales’
Volunteer Rifles performing a similar duty in the
rear. Both the Guards and the citizen soldiers
had each their bugle band. The huge bearskin
shakos of the Grenadiers (which I understood
they wore for the first time), and the prim uni-
forms of the Volunteers had a highly imposing
effect. Guards of honour, composed of the
Fusiliers and the Victoria Rifles were also dis-
played in front of the St. Lawrence Hall, from
the dome of which palatial hotel the English
standard proudly waved. Crowds of eager spec-
tators congregated adjacent to the landing place

SCENE AT THE WHARF. 213

where his Excellency was to disembark; and it
required great exertion on the part of both
military and police to prevent the dense masses
from encroaching beyond the circumscribed boun-
dary. Hundreds of persons might have been ob-
served blackening the decks and mounted on the
rigging of vessels, high as they could climb, and
even out upon the yard-arms, to testify their
allegiance to her Majesty’s representative. An
accident occurred in consequence(that, fortunately,
did not prove serious), which was witnessed by
Lord Monck and his party, as the Queen Victoria
happened to be approaching the Wharf at the
time. A vessel in the Albert Basin lay close to
where the steamer had to be moored. Every
portion of this schooner (apart from the deck,
which was crowded) where it was possible to stand
or climb, or maintain a position by the exercise
of strategy or agility, was occupied. The entire
ship looked one black mass of human life.
Owing to the immense number of people distri-
buted so unequally over the vessel, especially on
the rigging, it evinced signs of unsteadiness for
a moment, then swayed to and fro, and finally
gave one sudden bound, careering to the port side
until her bulwarks almost touched the water.
Numbers of persons were suddenly dashed from
the rigging, or else threw themselves off, during

214 ENGLISH AMERICA.

& momentary paroxysm of terror, upon those
on deck, while others jumped into the river. The
panic was severe and general. The spectators on
shore nearest the vessel caught the alarm, and
endeavoured ineffectually to escape from the
ship’s masts, that seemed in unpleasant proximity
to their heads. So compact was the crowd that
no individual composing the huge living block
could move an inch even at the peril of his life !
Providentially, the schooner, upon being relieved
of its excessive burden, heeled to the larboard side,
and quickly righted again; consequently, no more
serious disasters occurred than those occasioned
by fright and the sousing in thé St. Lawrence.
It was surprising in what an incredibly short
time the entire rigging of the vessel became
cleared of its adventurous occupants, just with
the same rapidity as a prestidigitateur would per-
form a conjuring trick. Hic Presto! and they
disappeared on to the deck and—into the water!

The gentlemen who assembled on the Albert
Wharf in readiness to receive his Excellency,
comprised the Mayor (who wore his collar of
office) and Corporation, the Honourable the
Premier, and the Honourable Messieurs M’Gee
and Dorion, General Sir W. F. Williams (the hero
of Kars), Commander of the Forces in Canada,
General Lord Paulet, Honourable Colonel Percy,

ee aS ee Re |

THE QUEEN’S REPRESENTATIVE. 215
Judge Coursol, the Recorder, and a few city
| Counsellors. The author was also privileged to
| form one of the group. Precisely at four o’clock,
as previously announced, the Queen Victoria
steamed alongside the Wharf, when the lusty and
prolonged acclamation of human voices almost
drowned the thunder of the guns fired from the
fort on St. Helen’s Island. Those cheers had for
me a deep signification. I learned from them
and through them the political sentiments of the
people, and how devotedly they were attached to
English institutions and to our good and gracious 1
Sovereign. The scene at the Wharf was pic- A) ie
turesque and exciting. All the vessels in port :
had their colours gaily streaming. But when
Lord Monck and his suite disembarked, and the
military band struck up the National Anthem,
popular enthusiasm had reached its highest pitch.
People waved their hats and raised their voices
in a deafening shout. The reception of the
Governor-General was brilliant and intense; so
muchs° u. sensibly to move the honoured visitor.
Lord }. ack’s suite consisted of Major-General
Doyle, Colonel Paynter, Mr. Godley, Private
Secretary, Captain Retallack, Military Secre-
tary, Lieut-Colonel de Salaberry, Lieut-Colonel
Irvine, and Mr. Brand. Between his Excellency
and the members of the Cabinet, General

216

ENGLISH AMERICA.

Williams and others, a very warm greeting took
place. Immediately after this friendly recognition,
the Mayor, Mr. Beaudry, approached the Gover-
nor, and presented an address of the usual
character, which, owing to the fact of his having
' been a French Canadian, he read most imper-
fectly, repeatedly stumbling in his attempts.
During the reading Lord Monck several times
bowed his acknowledgments.

His Excellency, in a clear, sonorous, and im-
pressive manner, then read the annexed reply to
the Corporate address—a reply that deeply
affected those who heard it :—

‘‘Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen,—I thank you
heartily for your cordial welcome on my visit to
the city of Montreal, as the representative of our
I receive with pleasure the assu-
rances of your feelings of loyalty and fidelity to
the Queen—feelings which I am certain would
develope themselves into action should it become
necessary to defend her Majesty’s Crown and

Sovere’ sn.

dignity in this part of her dominions.

The

domestic dissensions which still unhappily pre-
vail amongst the inhabitants of the United
States Republic, must be a cause of deep regret
to all who desire the progress of mankind and
the development of civilization, more especially

to those who, like yourselves, from close juxta-

THE CORTEGE. 217
position, have so many interests in common with
that people. I rejoice to think that Canada has
been spared the infliction of war, and I fer-
vently pray that foreign attack and domestic
dissension may ever be strangers to her shores.
I thank you for the expression of your wish to
render my stay, amongst you agreeable; and I
assure you I promise myself great pleasure in
making myself acquainted with your city and its
institutions.”

His Excellency having concluded his reply,
which was received with greetings, was conducted
to a carriage and four, in readiness for his recep-
tion. He was attended by the Honourable Mr.
Sicotte, Attorney-General, East,General Williams,
and the Mayor, the escort consisting of a troop
of cavalry. A line of carriages fullowed, occu-
pied by civic officials, military officers, ministers,
and private gentlemen.

The cortége slowly wound its way along the
leading streets, and finally drew up in front of
St. Lawrence Hall. All the line of route was
thickly lined with spectators; the windows of
stores and private houses were filled principally
with gaily attired ladies, who waved their delicate
hands and virgin pocket handkerchiefs gracefully
in the air, while around and above them were
displayed the British flag and other insignia,
VOL, I. L

218 ENGLISH AMERICA.

many of which were suspended by cords midway
across the thoroughfares. The ovation was
magnificent. Both the day and the pageant
were equally fine, and nothing was wanting that
could impart éclat to the Governor’s reception.
As a wind-up to the day’s proceedings, a
grand military concert was given; previous to
which Lord Monck inspected a battery of Montreal
Volunteers. Both took place in the Crystal
Palace—an immense structure, hideously ugly,
originally erected as a banquet hall during the
visit of the Prince of Wales. To compénsate in
some degree for the dreary look of the interior,
several banners were displayed in front of the
building, rendering the coup dail on entering
tolerably imposing. Evety available seat was
occupied by well-dressed spectators, many of
whom had travelled hundred of miles to auspicate
the visit of the Governor-General. Shortly
after nine o’clock his Excellency arrived, attended
by General Williams, Lord Paulet, General Doyle,
and other distinguished officers. Just before
Lord Monck had taken his seat on the dais,
the band struck up “God Save the Queen.”
The effect of the National air was highly ex-
hilarating, and created much enthusiasm. After-
wards a brigade of Volunteer Artillery, under
Major Hogan, went through a variety of evolu-

GRAND MILITARY REVIEW. 219

tions ; and with their battery of four field pieces,
which they trailed and otherwise exercised in the
body of the hall, greatly contributed to the en-
tertainment of every one present, for considerably
over an hour. Drill being over the artillerists
were drawn up in front of the platform, when
his Excellency descended from the dais, and in the
course of some well-timed observations remarked,
that “‘he would not presume to express his
opinion on the performance of the battery, but
that of the distinguished Generals beside him,
who were more conversant with military matters ;
and their opinion was high'y gratifying.”

An excellent concert succeeded, and as a finale,
three lusty cheers were given for Lord Monck,
while the band again repeated ‘“‘ God save the
Queen ”’—an air that lighted up every counten-
ance, as it evidently touched every heart. Later
in the evening his Excellency witnessed a well
got up dramatic performance given by the garrison
amateurs at the Theatre Royal. The dress circle
looked very brilliant, owing to the intermixture of
scarlet coats and spreading crinolines.

Next morning, at the early hour of eight
o'clock, a brilliant review was held on Logan’s
Farm, situated in the suburbs. About three
thousand troops assembled upon a magnificent
plateau, skirted on one side by a handsome grove

L 2

220 ENGLISH AMERICA.
and by a deep ravine on the other. The regi-
ments on the ground comprised an Armstrong
battery of nine guns, under Major Penn; the
Royal Artillery (Colonel Furner); Royal En-
gineers (Captain Gordon); Grenadier Guards
(Hon. Colonel Percy); Scotch Fusilier Guards
(Colonel Dalrymple); 16th Regiment (Major
Garrett); and the 47th Regiment (Colonel
Kelly). The troops, as they arrived on the
ground, formed into line on the eastern side
of the plateau, facing in a westerly direction ;
the battery taking up position on the extreme
right, and the 10th Royal Artillery on the left.
When the troops had all formed into line a few
rounds were fired from the Armstrong guns,
creating a sound that made the very earth tremble.
Directly afterwards the Governor-General ap-
peared on the field, mounted on a spirited charger,
attended by General Williams, Lord Paulet,
General Doyle, and their respective staffs. The
scene was most impressive and imposing—indeed,
a grander military spectacle I have seldom beheld
on the American continent, or even in Europe.
An additional charm was imparted to the effect by
the surrounding landscape. Westwardly, the broad
turgent St. Lawrence pursued its silent course
along thickly-wooded banks and islands, exposing
rising and thriving villages here and there, in-

api-
ong
the
En-
ards
ards
lajor
onel
the
side
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reme
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EFFECTS OF A SORTIE. 221

dicated by unpretending-looking churches with
tall spires, that glistened like mirrors in the
morning sunlight. Further, and Montreal spread
out to the wandering eye, while the numerous
turrets and minarets which adorn that city deluded
the imagination into the belief that one was in
an Kastern land. More westwardly still appeared
the great Victoria Bridge—that noble monu-
ment of modern engineering skill—with the
village of Laprarie on the opposite shore; the
cottage roofs sparkling like moon beams on a
limpid lake.

After the troops had been inspected, a grand
mimic fight took place. The firing of the Guards
was excellent; so much so as to call forth
flattering encomiums from _ several officers.
Although every soldier discharged his piece as
quickly as it could be loaded, nevertheless so
uniform and precise was the firing that it appeared
unbroken. Upon the 47th Regiment being thrown
out as a skirmishing party, they made a sudden
sortie, and, approaching within disagreeable
proximity to groups of spectators on foot and in
carriages, caused no slight panic by the unex-
pected discharge of their rifles full in the civilians’
faces. A general ‘ stampede” ensued ; the ladies
screamed, and the horses became restive. How-
ever ludicrous in itself, it possessed a degree of
seriousness; but, fortunately, no accident occurred

222 ENGLISH AMERICA.

in consequence. When the engineers were with-
drawn from the copse they had been defending, all
the troops deployed into line, and then into column.
While the “ military salute” was being given, the
band played the National air. The sight was
highly imposing; and Iam not aware that the
citizens of Montreal had ever before witnessed so
brilliant a military /é¢e.

In the evening a grand banquet was given to
his Excellency Viscount Monck, by the citizens,
to which I had the honour of being invited.
About two hundred guests were present, consisting
of the city authorities, military officers, members of
the Government, of both houses of the Legislature,
and of the learned professions, in addition to all
the leading residents. The capacious dining
saloon of the St. Lawrence Hall was tastefully
festooned with cedar branches, and further adorned
with the Royal Arms, portraits of the Queen and
the late Duke of Wellington, besides several
banners bearing appropriate devices. A military
band was in attendance. The banquet was
recherché in every respect, and the order and
arrangement were alike faultless. As there is a
closer affinity existing between civilisation and
the culinary art than at first sight appears, I
subjoin the ‘Bill of Fare,” which, together
with the musical programme and the list of
toasts, was neatly printed in gold :—

223

ith- DINNER BILL OF FARE
yall TuHurspay, JULY 3, 1862.
mn.
SOUP,
the é Green Turtle. A la Reine.
was FISH,
the Boiled Salmon, Lobster Sauce.
1 so : ENTREES,
Petit Paté aux Huitres,
Rix de Veau ‘Piqué au Petit Pois.
1 to Cotelettes d’Agneau au Champignon.
Supréme de Volaille aux Truffiés.
ens, JOINTS,
ited. Roast Filet of Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding.
, Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. Roast Ducks.
ting Roast Ham, Champagne Sauce,
rs of Boiled Round of Beef and Greens.
Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce, Boiled Leg Mutton and Caper Sauce.
ure, Boiled Tongues.
0 all VEGETABLES,
hin New Potatoes. Green Peas. Caulifiowers. Lettuce,
& | Asparagus, Cucumbers, Spinach,
lly Game,
ned Venison. Guinea Hens. Ducklings. Spring Chickens.
Lobster Salad. Chicken Salad.
and
reral PASTRY,
Plam Pudding. Fruit Jelly. Strawberry Bavaroise,
tary Charlotte Russe. Gooseberry Pastry.
was Merengues, with Cream.
Italian Cream. Nugas. Pyramids. Ice Creams,
and DESSERT,
1s & Grapes. Oranges. Pine Apples. Strawberries,
Fancy Cakes. Apples. Nuts, &c., dec.
and
sf WINES,
4 Champagne (Green Seal and Lac d’Or.) Sparkling Hock and Moselle,
ther Sherry. Port. Cliret. Sauterne,
of Cider Cup. Claret Cup.

Coffeg and Liqueurs.

224 ENGLISH AMERICA.

The Mayor, in proposing the toast of ‘ The
Queen,” and “The Prince of Wales,” gave
utterance to the most loyal sentiments, which
were received with every testimony of an equally
loyl feeling on the part of those present. His
Worship then gave “The Health of our noble
guest, Lord Monck,’’ the response to which was
enthusiastic.

In an appropriate speech, his Excellency re-
turned hearty thanks for the high honour conferred
upon him, and adverted to the eritical position of
Canada in language that could not be misunder-
stood. He observed that ‘ he was not vain enough
to take so grand a demonstration as a personal
compliment. He accepted of and regarded it as
an evidence of the loyal feelings by which they
were actuated, and of attachment to that Sove-
reign whose representative he was. The kindness
they had shown him,” he continued, ‘had em-
boldened him to make some remarks, not in an
official capacity, but in the capacity of one who
took a warm interest in all that concerned them.
He was afraid that what he was going to say
would abolish some of the feeling produced by
the remarks of the chairman. The latter told them
that Canada occupied a position that had never
before been attained by any country of similar
size. But we had the entire control of our own

225

CRITICAL POSITION OF CANADA.

affairs ; our commerce and our frontier were pro-
tected without our aftc..ards being called upon
to bear any part of the expense. He was bound
to tell them, as a friend, that this state of things
could not exist much longer. The plain truth
had better be told at once. There was but one
quarter from which Canada could be attacked,
and that was from over the frontier. Up to the
last year there was no other excitement than that
of commercial action; but to-day, he regretted
to say, the whole nation was turned into one vast
camp. The change was observed with pain and
regret by the mother-country and by ourselves ;
and the return to peaceful industry would be
gladly welcomed. It would be madness if one
did not recognise the existence of a large army in
that country. He did not make this remark be-
cause he entertained any apprehension that they
should be attacked, but in the words of one older
and more sagacious, he would say that if they
wanted to be independent and on terms of inti-
macy with the neighbouring country, it could only
be by being prepared to defend themselves from
attack. It was not necessary that they should
anticipate attack, but they should constantly be in
a state of sufficient defence. These were the
words of the most able English statesman—he
L 5

226 ENGLISH AMERICA.

meant the Prime Minister. Incase of aggression,
they might depend upon it the whole resources of
the empire would be put forth to defend Canada,
no matter from what point the attack came.
They must, however, remember that Canada
formed part of the empire, and would have to
become liable for some of the expense. Although
he did not wish to make any assertion as to what
would be expended by England or by the
, Colonies, still he was sure that England would
deal it out with no niggard hand. England
could not, in case of invasion, supply men to
defend Canada; but stout hearts and strong
hands would then be found in Canada, and he
was satisfied that they would not be wanting in
such anemergency. The people of Canada should
put forth some effort to prevent the risk of an
attack. He thought it his duty, as a friend, to
lay these views before them, and he therefore had
the more agreeable task of alluding to the won-
derful development of industry among them.
Canada, and Montreal in particular, might look
forward with confidence to the future. Their pro-
gress for several years past had been as remarka-
ble as it had been satisfactory. They might be told
that they had not a fertile soil; but he believed
that those nations which had to struggle against

AN ILL-TIMED EXPRESSION. 227

nature were those which afterwards went forth
and conquered not only their fellow men, but all
the difficulties of life!”

Lord Monck’s address was listened to with
breathless attention, and evoked repeated plaudits.
A brilliant assemblage of ladies occupied the
gallery. These were evidently delighted at the
manner in which the “lords of creation” enjoyed
the profuse bounties of nature so lavishly spread
out before them. The elegant effect of the saloon
was heightened by three massive chandeliers, and
by branches arranged at either side.

One* slight occurrence, however, slightly
marred the harmony of the proceedings. The
Mayor in proposing one of the toasts that, as
chairman, fell to his lot, observed that ‘it was
better for Canada to be connected with England,
because it was cheaper that such should be the
case.”” Now, the Mayor happened to be a French
Canadian who understood and spoke the English
language very imperfectly. The unfortunate and
ill-timed expressions to which he gave utterance
may have been the result of his inacquaintance
with our forms of speech, or else may have been
simply a lapsus lingue. Atall events, he gave con-
dign offence for having estimated Canadian loyalty
at so low a rate. Should he again become a can-
didate for civic honours, I fear he would be in a

——

228 ENGLISH AMERIWA.

sorry minority. Animadverting upon the Mayor’s
inadvertence, a French Canadian observed to me

a short time afterwards :—

‘Sir, there is more security for life ‘and
property under the English flag than we could
either have or hope for under that of any other
nation; and therefore, if necessary, I shall fight
and die to preserve Canada a British dependency.
Why should our Mayor have taken so contemptible
a view of our allegiance as to suppose it could be
actuated by mere monetary considerations ?”’

Next day Lord Monck held a J/evée, in the
saloon of the St. Lawrence Hall, which was
numerously and influentially attended, more so,
indeed, than upon any similar occasion. The
leading people of the Province vied with each
other in testifying their deep loyalty and attach-
ment to Her Majesty through her representative.
Considerable effect was added to the spectacle by
the uniforms worn by the ®fficers of the line and
the Militia—a display enhanced by the robes of
the clergy, professors of colleges, and members
of the bar. The tout ensemble was admirable ;
and the proceedings were conducted with con-
summate order and courtly state.

!
|

229

CHAPTER XII.

KAKOUNA, ‘‘THE BRIGHTON OF CANADA.”

a

Quitting Montreal—On Board a Steamer—Town of Sorel—Its
Historical Interest—Cascade of Chambli—Riviére du Loup—
Kakouna—Topography of the Place—French Canadian Lodg-
ing-House Keepers—O'Neill’s Hotel—Fashionable Life at
this Watering Place—A Gifted Jehu—A Yankee Speculator—
An “ Artist” par eacellence—An Indian Encampment—Visit
to a Convent—The Catholic Church—Sunday Auction for the
Benefit of a Soul in Purgatory—Drive to the Falls—A Strange
Story—Atmospherical Phenomena in the Lower St. Law-
rence,

I tert Montreal on a sultry July evening, in
one of those steamers which ply daily between
that city and Quebec. These river boats present
a most unsightly appearance, being clumsily
built, after the American fashion, and having
their machinery upon deck. For the most part
the accommodation is unexceptionable. The
saloons embrace the entire length of the vessels,
at either side of which are confined state rooms,
wherein two tiers of berths are fitted up. In the
centre of the saloons tables of an oblong form are
placed, upon which meals are served at appointed
times. Here also are pianotortes for the use of

230 ENGLISH AMERICA.

passengers ; and volatile maids and gawky strip-
lings, during the voyage, pass the evening in
dancing, singing, and playing, to the manifest
delight of the “old folk,” in whom such an ex-
hibition probably revive the recollection of long
buried joys. Ladies who seek retirement have
private saloons specially appropriated to their
use, and gentlemen addicted to “liquor,” can
obtain all the refreshment they require at the
‘‘bars,” in which suffocating cribs the most
jovial of the voyageurs sit, stand, smoke, and
drink at night for hours together. The boat in
which I journeyed had over two hundred souls on
board, a number rather above than below the
general average, although judging from the quiet
appearance of Montreal, no stranger could
believe that so many travellers passed through it
daily. With the exception of Sorel there is no
place of interest along the St. Lawrence until you
arrive at Quebec, and the scenery is exceedingly
tame, monotonous, and uninteresting.

The little unpretending town of Sorel possesses
more or less of historical importance. The first
mission for the propagation of the gospel in
Canada, was established here. Here also the
first Protestant church was erected, the bell of
which is the oldest on that side of the Atlantic,
The first Protestant settlers were United Empire

nine ——nrrremerinicin inca

TOWN OF SOREL, 231

Loyalists, who gave up their property in the
States rather than become subjects of a foreign
Power. The place itself takes its name from one
Sieur de Saurel, a French engineering officer,
who built a fort at the mouth of the Richelieu,
to defend it from the ravages of the Indian
tribes who then infested that region. The re-
mains of an old moat are still observable, said to
have been the scene of a terrible struggle between
the French and those marauders. Along the
banks of the Richelieu was quartered, in 1777,
the army of General Burgoyne. From. the time
of Sir Frederick Haldimand, who built the Go-
vernment cottages, both the Governors-General,
and the Commanders-in-Chief, have made this

spot their summer residence. Two members of
_ the reigning Royal Family have visited Sorel —

viz., the Duke of Clarence, then serving in the
navy, and the Duke of Kent. Upon the presen-
tation of an address to the former, his Royal
Highness was pleased to sanction the change of
the designation of the town to that of his own,
William Henry.

In the neighbourhood a certain river conveys
the waters of Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence,
after having formed a cascade of two leagues at
Char bli. Sorel, at one time carried on a great
trade in beaver skins. Several tribes of Indians

232 ENGLISH AMERICA,

used to resort hither in vast numbers to exchange
their furs and skins for other goods.

At eight o’clock next morning the steamer ar-
rived at the Quebec Wharf, where another boat—
the Magnet—was in readiness to convey passengers
to Riviére du Loup, a distance of one hundred and
twenty six miles on the opposite side of the St.
Lawrence. A scene of confusion ensued, owing to
the searching for, and changing of luggage. A
porter seized my portmanteau, carried it off
somewhere, and it was fully half-an hour before
I could find either, and only just as the cry
was given—‘“all aboord.” But this is quite an
usual occurrence, and decidedly detracts from the
pleasure of travelling. These minor arrange-
ments upon which so much temporary happiness
or misery depends, are managed much better at
home. After a while, however, one gets accus-
tomed to such annoyances so as to regard them
as inseparable concomitants of travelling in
English America.

The neighbourhood of Riviére du Loup is ex-
ceedingly picturesque. Huge mountains, mostly
bleak, barren, and uninhabitable, meet the eye,
while rugged cliffs extend for miles along the
broad island-dotted St. Lawrence, frowning in
defiant majesty. But even in this region the busy
hand of man has not been idle. Here and there,

ASPECTS OF THE PLACE. 233

at either side, long lines of wooden cottages ex-
tend—the domiciles of French Canadians—and as
the walls and shingle roofs of these buildings are
generally whitewashed, they present a very
cleanly if not interesting appearance. About
six p.m. the steamer arrived at its destination,
when I speedily got into a carriage and drove to
Kakouna (a journey of some half-a-dozen miles),
to the cottage occupied by General Williamson,
formerly of the United States Army, who had
invited me to spend a few weeks with himself and
i:* amiable niece.

s.ahouna, or Cacouna, is an insignificant village
on the border of the St. Lawrence. This “‘ Brighton
of Canada,” as it is somewhat affectedly called,
seems to afford wonderful attraction to Canadians
during the sultry summer months. I am at a
loss, however, to discover what those attractions
are. I never visited a more dreary or woe-begone
place in my life. It would make a capital penal
settlement; and as there is a difficulty in know-
ing how to dispose of the more dangerous class
of criminals in the colony, I would suggest that
Kakouna be converted into a receptacle of this kind.
In the background is a bare flat-country, sparsely
inhabited, with a miserable human habitation
dotted about here and there, appearing like
specks in the distance. In the foreground is the

234 ENGLISH AMERICA.

river St. Lawrence, half hidden by woods and
out-houses, and bounded by bleak, rugged cliffs,
which frown on you from the opposite shore.
The village itself consists of some two hundred
straggling wooden tenements, low, and incom-
modious, the property of the Aabitans, which they
let out to visitors at exorbitant prices during the
‘¢ fashionab'e” season.

These simple-looking French Canadians are
notorious adepts at swindling, although from
their isolated position, their limited wants, and
their priest-ridden condition, one would scarcely
look for such a trait in their character. They are
likewise ineffably mean and parsimonious; and,
notwithstanding the possession of every necessary,
would nevertheless receive the crumbs from your
table as abjectly as the veriest mendicant. In illus-
tration of their sharp practice the following incident
will suffice. A friend of mine, desiring to pass a
few months at this place, commissioned an agent
in Quebec to procure for him a furnished cottage.
Finally, such was apparently obtained, though the
rent demanded was extortionate, owing to the
concourse of visitors to Kakouna during the
season. Judge, kind reader, of my friend’s sur-
prise when, upon taking possession, he discovered
that the cottage contained no other furniture than
two tables, two beds, a chair, and a water jug!

re aricnenateemc

A BATCH OF NOTABLES. 235

No redress could readily or easily be obtained, so
my friend had to exercise patience, and procure,
as a matter of fuvour, necessary articles from the
sympathising proprietor of Russell’s Hotel in
Quebec.

There is an hotel at Kakouna, which is closed

during the greater part of the year, kept by a

genial Irishman, named O’Neill, who, I was in-
formed, fed his guests almost exclusively upon
ham and eggs. Certainly, very little else could
be obtained in this remote region; and those
visitors who could not “rough it,” were com-
pelled to procure luxuries either from Quebec or
Montreal. One morning I encountered at the
hotel a number of distinguished people, including
the Premier’s wife and daughters; the daughters
and relatives of other Ministers; the President of
the Executive Council; Baron Boilleau, the
French Consul-General, and his lady; and persons
of similar social grades. They appeared to have
had a pleasant time of it, notwithstanding the
Canadian fishy-flavoured ham. JDancing par-
ties were got up occasionally in the evening, when
the guests, who numbered ten ladies for one
gentleman, whirled themselves round and round,
in a room of small dimensions, to the music of a
very indifferent instrument.

Why it is that people resort to this locality every

236 ENGLISH AMERICA.

season is more than I can divine. To my mind it
is the most dreary-looking spot that could well be
selected; the only prospect being uncultivated
forests, the river, and towering bluffs, when the fog
does not obscure the vision. A single week here
is quite enough to afflict one with chronic ennui,even
with all the accessories to comfort that could pos-
sibly be procured. The only specimen of animated
nature to be found are wild mules, gaunt bristly
pigs, with long legs, bony bodies, and donkeys’
ears, excepting huge flies, ducks, and chickens.
The flies are most villanously pertinacious and
provoking. They gather round your bed at day-
light, and buzz hoarsely into your ears, while
they bite like hungry mosquitoes when they have
the chance. To guard against assault I was
compelled to protect my face with the bed clothes,
preferring to be half smothered than exposed to
their unmerciful attacks. I have come to the
conclusion that, with all its disadvantages and
draw-backs, Kakouna is a dernier ressort, owing
to its being the only watering place in Canada.
Why so many people who wish to be esteemed

‘‘ fashionable” congregate in Kakouna is, as
I have before remarked, beyond any conjecture of
mine. The sea-bathing, unquestionably, is very
good—when the tide is in; but the difficulty of
getting to the beach is great. One has to des-

A CANADIAN SUPERSTITION. 237

cend dizzy precipices, sprinkled. over with masses
of slippery slate, that there is imminent danger
of breaking one’s neck, or else being toppled
over the huge, steep, rugged cliffs. Once I ac-
complished the feat in a very awkward manner,
holding on to the rocks occasionally for support,
and so descended in safety. For no vw rialy con-
sideration would I venture upon such an exploit
again; and yet I was told that ladies most in-
trepidly ran the risk, albeit the slimy pathway
down the declivity is not nearly as wide as the
crinolines so extensively worn in Canada, as well
as in Europe. The real attraction of Kakouna
consists, I apprehend, in a puerile, insensate su-
perstition, to which all Lower-Canadians are more
or less addicted—namely, the virtues believed to
exist in the salt water; although there is an ex-
cellent sulphur spring in the neighbourhood, to
which nobody resorts. Visitors to this place are
in the habit of drinking and gorging their
stomachs with the sea water daily; and many,
when returning to their homes, bring away the
same in bottles. Great virtue is considered to be
inherent in it; and it is regarded something after
the manner that the Irish Roman Catholics do the
“holy wells ” of their country. .

As in a dull village of this kind time hangs
heavily, and amusements are circumscribed, it is

Scene enaneenen ete eae ee RESET VLEET AON Ria? aI «th

238 ENGLISH AMERICA.

all but impossible to escape ennui. One foggy
evening, after having walked about a mile, I en-
tered the parlour of the hotel as drenched as if I
had been dipped in the neighbouring river.
Reader, dilate no more on the miseries of a No-
vember fog in London; an August fog in
Kakouna beats it hollow! Well, in this dingy
apartment were congregated some fifteen or
twenty ladies, in the prime of life, and in the
bloom of womanhood. Sucha grave assemblage of
women I have seldom seen. Some were engaged
in needlework ; others were reading, or affecting
to read ; but every countenance was sombre, even
to a painful degree of expression. Scarcely a
word was interchanged—a circumstance, consider-
ing the character of the company, which struck
me as remarkable. I thought within myself what
sacrifices people made to the idol Fashion, and
how much happier those individuals would have
been in their,own homes, and among their re-
spective families. But then, what is happiness,
compared to the opinion people entertain of you?
It is not “ the thing” to remain in town during
the whole year. To violate social arrangements
in this respect, would be considered unpardonably
vulgar, even for a Canadian. Hence the necessity
for “‘ keeping up appearances.”

‘ The general routine of life during the Kakouna

A GIFTED JEHU. 239

season consists in sleeping, eating, bathing,
driving, dancing, and, though last not least, love
making. Sometimes, by way of variety, beds are
placed in hay-carts, and the “‘ young people” take
rides through the country in groups of a dozen or
more. This the ladies call “ perfectly delightful,”
and I have no doubt it is, although I have not
been tempted into trying the experiment. Occa-
sionally the visitors of both sexes find themselves
in dire perplexity for music by which to measure
their steps, when they trip it on the green sward
on picnic occasions. Kakouna only possesses one

- musician, whose services can be had for a consi-

deration. This individual is the driver of a caléche,
but also acts in the capacity of a wagoner. In
fact he follows a variety of occupations, rendering
his presence very unce:*..1in when his services are
needed as a votary of Apollo. A French gentle-
man observed, respecting this gifted Jehu:—

‘¢ Dis be man of omnibus vocation. Sometime
he make de pig-pen; sometime he drive nail in
shingle on de house; den he cut me hare, shave
me berd, make me shoe, and den he make de
music for de dance.” ‘ :

During my brief stay in the village a Yankee
speculator, or, more properly, peculator, arrived

‘there—where will not this class of adventurer

240 ENGLISH AMERICA.

penetrate?—in order to dispose of Brummagem
jewellery. He hired the baker’s shop for the oc-
casion, which simply consisted of a small room
ten feet square. Outside the door was displayed
a white flag, upon which was printed in bold
characters the following notice :—
“Great Roya, Girt Storrs—
SoMETHING NEW.”

Each evening an auction took place, when some
mock auctioneer ascended the platform, formed by a
couple of planks supported by a few empty flour
barrels. Thus propped and perched up, with his
head bobbing against the ceiling of the apart-
ment, this man endeavoured to dispose of cheap
and trashy wares to caléehe drivers and village
girls, who filled the room almost to suffocation ;
some of whom actually danced with joy over
the tinselled trifles and garish gewgaws which
were knocked down to them for what the
mounted vendor designated “a Yankee six-
pence.” Pipes containing foul tobacco were
freely smoked during the occasion, and as the
only means of ventilation was the door, which
was generally blocked up, the condition of the at-
mosphere became consequently insupportable.
Such a compound of villanous smells are not often
experienced. However the contents of the

AN INDIAN ENCAMPMENT. 241

‘¢ Royal Gift Store”? may have been deserving of
the appellation, this, I will be bound for it, was
altogether ‘“‘ something new.”

Owing to the large influx of English-speaking
visitors to Kakouna, an enterprising French-
Canadian “artist” honoured that village with his
presence, and opened a temporary phaqtographic
studio, in some out-of-the-way place. Asa ludi-
crous specimen of French-English, I subjoin an
announcement (verbatim et literatim) issued by
him :—

‘Portraits! Portraits! AT VERY Goop
Curarp!—The undersigned artist invites the
parishioners of Cacouna, who wish to have their
portrait taken and profit of the good cheap to
come and visit the numerous portraits which he
shows at the little building situated near the road
which conduct to the river St. Lawrence. They
will assure themselves of the portraits offered at
very good cheap and with a very fine box.”

This composition is a curiosity in its way, and
will, doubtless, provoke a smile.

One day I visited an Indian encampment in
close proximity to the village. The wigwams,
which were formed of birch branches, covered
with birch bark, stretched along the shore and

VoL. I. M

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Se 3. Br et Se en CE ee ne eee ee ee Peat Fn 8 PI BOM Pe oe ic Ren Bone C eelees

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ee Mn re Aya PART ete EN te ere a ee eet 3 2 a ee
: ~ eS perteet. 3~ Be es es a caine oat -

242 ENGLISH AMERICA.

had rather a picturesque appearance. I found
the men and women very industrious. Some
were occupied in building canoes; others in pre-
paring food; but the majority of the squaws were
busily engaged in making baskets, fans, and other
fancy articles, out of Indian grass and reeds.
A few of the aged squaws wore breast-plates of
tin. These are termed ‘‘Niskman;’’ and are
only used by those tribes who pride themselves
on their caste and follow the superstitious customs
of their order. Most of those people, however,
were apparently members of the Roman Catholic
faith, judging from the beads and crosses I ob-
served suspended in their wigwams and the
‘¢ Miraculous Medals” around the women’s necks,
I conversed with two of the Indians, who seemed
very intelligent, and could speak French well and
English fairly. They answered all my questions
with readiness and clearness. The Indians of
Lower Canada wander about during summer in
order to vend their commodities, but on the ap-
proach of autumn return to their various settle-
ments. They are considered a quiet, harmless,
inoffensive people; and one of them assured me
that his band never touched ardent spirits.
Accompanied by General Williamson and his
niece, I visited the convent of the Sceurs de
la Charité—a very excellent establishment,

eC ISMN 1 8
—_—

A LOTTERY BAZAR. 243

although entirely constructed of planks. The
ladies—one of whom is from England—got up a
lottery bazaar of fancy articles, including a num-
ber of things, from dolls and dolls’ bedsteads up
to sacerdotal vestments, all of which were to be
rafied for in the evening, and the proceeds
devoted to the completion of the nunnery, still in
an unfinished state. I was gallant enough to inyest
a trifle in the purchase of tickets (which I did not
accept) at the solicitation of the fair attendants,
who were presided over by the sisterhocd, with
some of whom I got into converse, as well as wiih
two ecclesiastics who happened to be preseat.
One was a thin, spare, cadaverous individual of
most ascetic appearance, who might easily have
been mistaken for a Carthusian monk. The other
was an obese, round-waisted, jaunty, jolly looking
fellow, the deau-ideal of the fat, fescennine
friars of olden time, who laughed and quaffed
and illustrated the maxim in their own persons,
that those who would lead a good life lad need to
live well. After leaving the chapel of the convent
to which I was conducted by ma Mére Supérieure, I
entered a reception room below stairs, wherein a
few of the nuns were engaged. On a small

square table in the centre of the apartment, I

observed, nicely arranged, a number of common

clay pipes, together with tobacco and cigars.

M2

244 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Upon opening the door and noticing these articles
my risibility became unrestrained, and the good
sisters, quickly realising the suggestion which
had produced my merriment, positively laughed
outright themselves. Afterwards I was informed
that the strange commodities alluded to—and they
certainly seemed to me ludicrously out of place in a
conventual establishment—were for sale, in order
to aid the bazaar, which eventually produced a very
handsome sum. This religious community only
numbered five ladies. The head establishment is
at Quebec; that at Kakouna being but an affilia-
tion or branch of the “ mother house.” These
daughters of St. Vincent de Paul employ them-
selves in a very useful manner. They teach
school, visit the sick, and fulfil many other acts
of mercy and charity. Most of the “sisters”
are young, and some appeared both interesting
and intelligent.

There is a Roman Catholic Chapel in the vil-
lage capable of accommodating one thousand
persons. It is to ine a matter of astonishment
how these French Canadians realise funds suf-
ficient for the erection of large churches and the
maintenance of their clergy; and yet, go to any
village and you are struck with their efforts in
these respects. Tithes are paid to the priests;
and I have heard of farmers who refused to im-

ticles
good
which
ughed
ormed
d they
ce in &
order
a very
y only
1ent is
affilia-
These
them-
teach
opr acts
isters ”
resting

he vil-
ousand
shment
s suf-
nd the
to any
orts in
priests. ;
to im-

SUNDAY AUCTION. 245

prove their holdings because of the extra levy
that would be made upon them by their spiritual
directors.

The first Sunday after my arrival I attended
the Catholic Church—the only place of worship
at present erected—where a high mass was per-
formed in a very low manner. Only one priest
was dressed in canonicals. On either side of the
high altar were arranged groups of choristers
habited in surplices. The singing was so bad and
the voices so ‘‘out of tune and harsh,” that I
was compelled to retire long before the service had
concluded. Such raising and straining of the
vocal chords no delicate ear could abide. The noise
was intolerable, and could only be compared to the
bleating of a flock of sheep, or the bellowing of
some scores of oxen. Had there been any in-
strumental music the cracked hoarse voices would
have acted upon the auricle with less violence;
as it was the effect was not only disagreeable, but
painful. After mass the congregation assembled
outside of the church in a wide open space, where
caléches and other vehicles were drawn up in a
line. Shortly afterwards an auction took place ;
a usual occurrence, with which the devotional
exercises of the morning are terminated. On this
occasion a little porker was put up, and finally
knocked down “ for the benefit of a soul in Pur-

-

246 ENGLISH AMERICA.

gatory |’? Such was the laudable object ostensibly
assigned by the auctioneer, in bad French,
although, properly speaking, the proceeds of the
sale were to go into the pockets of a priest, for
repeating a mass or masses for the repose of some
spirit which had departed this life, and about
whose comfort the proprietor of the said porkling
was solicitous. Finally, notices were read re-
specting cottages and lands to be offered for
sale during the week. During these proceedings
boys were busily occupied selling raspberries,
which grow wild and in profusion about this part
of the country.

One evening I drove to Riviére du Loup with
the double object of obtaining a glimpse of the
Falls, and having a look at the town, for it
possesses that dignified appellation, having been
‘‘incorporated” a few years since. In some
parts the read was very bad, and even dangerous,
and occasionally impassable on foot. Pools ofstag-
nant water overflowed the road in close proximity
to cottages, almost entering the very doors, and
yet the Aabitans were either too indifferent
or too indolent to fill up the hollows. The Falls
ure situated nearly half-a-mile from the town,
and although inferior and less imposing than
those of Montmorenci, near Quebec, are never-
theless worth a visit. The water, which was not

A STRANGE STORY. 247

sibly then voluminous, has a descent of one hundred
ench, feet through a crevice in a rock, upon the summit
f the of which I mounted, and gazed down upon the

, for roaring cataract beneath. Nature uround seemed

some wofully bare and barren; in fact, I do not re-

about member ever having visited so utterly wild a

kling place. The town of Riviére du Loup is built

d re- upon an acclivity, from which an extensive view

1 for of the St. Lawrence can be obtained. The ey

dings cottages are more or less detached, and a few | hi 4

Tries, appeared somewhat ornamental, for so dreary a Rogas

s part locality. | Fifteen hundred inhabitants are at
scattered about; but, judging from appearances, teed a

with a stranger would not regard the population to be i

f the one quarter of that number. I noticed several half- i

or it clad, dirty, barefooted children, and some wretched

been looking hovels here and there; nay, I have even

some observed entire families pent up in barns and in

Tous, “huts scarcely good enough for swine, which

stag caused me to observe to my fellow-tourists :—

imity “‘ After all said about England, the peasantry |

, and of the ‘old country’ seem to me far better off, As cl

ferent and to be far better fed and clothed than many of “id

Falls the same class I have observed in this.”

town, A romantic story is told concerning Riviére du

than Loup, which goes far to prove that fact is some-

ever= times stranger than fiction. About thirty years

s not ago a vessel which had suiled from England

age ee
ee

= ee

hee Pac a ee

ft
|

4
Bit |
4

248 ENGLISH AMERICA,

happened to be wrecked upon the coast. A bar
or ledge of rock traverses the St. Lawrence north
and south, near this point, rendering the greater
portion of the river unnsvigable, and leaving but
a narrow passage through an aperture for the
entrance and exit o: suips. During squally
weather vessels are sometimes driven upon these
rocks, or else towards the shore, and meet with
speedy destruction. On board the foundered
vessel I have mentioned was an English gentle-
man named George Edward Ewell, son of the
Governor of Columbia at that period. This
young man was fortunately saved from drowning
by a fisherman, one of a class who exclusively in-
habited the coast, although at such a compara-
tively recent date. He was taken to the fisher-
man’s log hut on the beach, for not even the
nucleus of a village was in existence then. At
first the stranger had great difficulty in making
known his wants, being unacquainted with the
French, and especially the patois spoken by the
people by whom he was surrounded. After a
while, however, he managed to pick up sufficient
knowledge of the language so as to render him-
self understood. It being the winter season, and
no possible communication then opened up be-
tween Quebec and Riviére du Loup, he was
compelled by necessity to remain an unwilling

AN AGREEABLE SURPRISE. 249

guest of the hospitable fisherman for several
months.

The fisherman had a daughter, a very un-

comely-looking person, for whom the English-

man formed an attachment, and to whom he
eventually became allied. Shortly after his
marriage he returned to his native country, where
he sojourned nearly four years, owing to the
death of his father (who for some time previous
had resided in London) and the delay produced
by the legal arrangements consequent upon the
settlement of the patrimonial estate. Meanwhile
his wife had received no tidings of her wealthy
lord; and her friends twitted her for her folly
in espousing a husband whom they persisted
had deserted her, and whom she would never see
again. Certainly, there was apparent cause for
grave upbraidings and the worst suspicions.
After much weary, and perhaps hopeful waiting,
the fugitive did return at last, with a splendid
carriage, livery servants, and a showy equipage.
Upon his arrival he was greeted as ‘‘ Lord George
Edward.” He re-joined his spouse in her
father’s humble cottage, but soon afterwards
built a commodious stone edifice—the only one in
the locality—which still remains an object of
attraction and curiosity to visitors. The romantic
husband did not relish his new surroundings, so
mu 5

250 ENGLISH AMERICA.

he gave himself up to fishing and carousing,
making boon companions of the fishermen.
This career did not last long. Ewell died three
years after his return, leaving a widow and an
only daughter. The former being in posses-
sion of a large estate, soon attracted the atten-
tion of suitors from distant quarters. Among
the rest was a French physician named Boleau,
whose persevering overtures were finally accepted.
The doctor’s brother finally got married to the
daughter, thus securing the entire property to
themselves. Rumour with her busy tongue
reported that the doctor and his wife did not live
happily together. One thing is certain, she was
never seen driving about or in company with
him; while it was averred that she never went
abroad or received visitors, but led a life of per-
fect seclusion. What fiction can be stranger than
the facts thus recorded ?

The atmospherical phenomena of summer in
the Lower St. Lawrence are certainly well worthy
of the descriptive pen of some future Jean Paul.
I have gazed wonderingly and almost enchantedly
upon skies which, if pourtrayed upon the canvas of
Turner, I should have been tempted to pronounce
wholly out of Nature. Whether it is that the
vapours engendered between the Mexican Gulf
stream and the Arctic counter current of this

ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENA. 251

entire coast are draughted inward by every
easterly and southerly wind; or whether from the
immense local evaporation occasioned by the high
temperature of the mid hours of a Canadian
summer’s day, following on cool, not to say chilly,
nights, or from the combined operation of both
causes, certain it is that never did heat and
moisture play such pranks upon the eye and the
imagination. Within the short space of twenty
minutes Ihave seen the huge expanse of waters
before Kakouna—seven leagues across, from
shore tou shore— wrapped in a thin white gauze,
through which phantom ships seemed to steal
without the aid of the winds, when suddenly the
vapour has been rolled up as completely and
almost as rapidly as a theatrical curtain. During
certain hours of the day the exhalations became
lifted up in masses, bow-shaped, pillar-shaped,
and bird-shaped. Indeed, some of the sunsets on
this great river were the most gorgeous I ever
beheld. At times the St. Lawrence appeared as
though it were one vast sheet of flame; while the
tall cliffs in the distance seemed to reflect its
brilliancy—almost too glowing for the eye to
gaze upon. Then the sun would sink, when
the waters and bluffs presented the appearance of
a blackened mass, almost distressing to behold.
At night I have seen the stars in all their Arctic

252 ENGLISH AMERICA.

glory, and the weird Aurora Borealis, with its
ghostly glow, like Plato’s twilight, or the Scan-
dinavian Ragnarok, which is to close the era of
existence both for gods and men! Further east-
ward, on the Labrador coast, and in Newfound-
land, I have bee. told what I have nowhere seen
mentioned, that the Aurora can be distinctly
heard at night, rushing overhead, with a sharp,
swift sound, like the flight of innumerable
rockets. So old residents have assured me. Of
course I pretend to no personal knowledge on the
subject.

I had arranged with the Honourable D'Arcy
M’Gee to make a trip with him to the River
Saguenay before proceeding to Quebec. Accord-
ingly, we drove down, in defiance of an inundating
rain storm, to Riviéredu Loup, for the purpose
of meeting the steamer which plied from thence
to that magnificently stern region, where, by
some mighty convulsion of nature, a huge mour.-
tain had been ripped asunder, opening up a deep
gorge for the river to pass through without caring
to smooth down the marks of therupture. How-
ever, we experienced the painful mortification cf
observing the vessel steam away from the Wharf
before it was possible to reach it. I had no
alternative but to take refuge for the night in a
neighbouring hotel. No further opportunity

le

THE KING OF RIVERS. 253

occurred of viewing the majestic scenery of the
Saguenay— a river wide and deep, situated at the
debouchure of the St. Lawrence, having bare and
precipitous rocks at either side, rising in awful
grandeur nearly two thousand feet above that dark-
browned sullen, sluggish tide,

‘* Whose gloomy shore
Skylark never warbles o’er.”

For seventy miles up this wonderful tiver is
navigable for vessels of the largest tonnage.
Then occur rapids and cataracts—

‘* Boiling, wheeling, foaming, thundering down ;”’

when, at the extent of forty leagues it issues from
out Lake St. John, beyond which for over two
hundred miles, in a north-westerly direction, it
pursues its ruffled but unflagging course. The
peculiarly sombre colour of this “ King of Rivers,”
as it has been aptly styled, is by some travellers |
attributed to the presence of pitch-pines on its 4
banks, intensified by it prodigious depth, and the )
shade of its lofty margin. Few sights on our
globe are said to be more majestic or impressive.

254 ENGLISH AMERICA.

CHAPTER XIII.

RETURN TO QUEBEC.

French-Canadian Pretensions—The Exodus from the States—
Yankee Emissaries Discomfited—Outrages by Federal Senti-
nels at Niagara—A Volunteer Hero—The Turf Club Races—
Military Murders,

On returning to Quebec early in August, I found
that a controversy of more than local interest had
sprung up between the French and English press
and their several representatives in the new
Cabinet. The point at issue was the settlement
of the waste lands of the Crown, especially in
Lower Canada, where one hundred millions of
unoccupied acres were alleged to be available,
and more or less capable of cultivation. The
policy of throwing open these waste lands on
equal terms to all comers, whether natural born
subjects of her Majesty, or foreigners desirous of
entering into British allegiance, had long been
advocated by Mr. M’Gee, to whom it was confi-'
dently expected—indeed the announcement was
official—that the immigration portfolio would be
entrusted. But the French-Canadian population

CANADIAN *‘ KNOW-NOTHINGISM.”’ 255

of Canada East, who for many years had become
more intense and exaggerated in the assertion of
what they call their “nationality,” formed a
strong combination against this arrangement, so
that the Ministry at this period were undecided
as to what course they should adopt. The French
journals—of which there are four published at
Quebec, one at Three Rivers, one at Sorel, two at
St. Hyacinthe, one at St. John on the Richelieu,
one at Ottawa, and three at Montreal—had all
clamourously united in the cry of ‘ Lower
Canada for the French.” Against this species of
Know-nothingism Mr. M’Gee was the only Lower
Canadian statesman who had the moral courage
boldly to contend. The contest was exceeding
embittered, and seemed likely to be protracted,
especially as the British population appeared su-
pine on the question, while the other party acted
with hierarchical unanimity.

To illustrate the extent of French-Canadian
pretensions, | transcribe the following propositions
from an issue of the Gazette de Sorel, embodying

_ the conditions on which alone a Lower Canadian

Minister may look for support from the patrons
of that journal :—

‘¢ Firstly—Firm opposition to the Intercolonial
Railway.

256 ENGLISH AMERICA.

‘‘Secondly—Seat of Government in Lower
Canada at Quebec.

‘“¢ Thirdly—Colonisation of Lower Canada by
French-Canadians as much as possible, and by
means of homogeneous immigration, viz., French,
Belgian, and Swiss.

‘¢ Fourthly — Supreme effort of the Government
for that end.

‘“¢ Fifthly—Encouragement of commercial rela-
tions and closer intimacy with France.”

Every British subject at home as well as in the
colony is interested in the issue of this grave

contest; which was then expected to have become
the turning-point in the fate of the McDonald-
Sicotte administration during the ensuing session
of the provincial Parliament. It was thought
that the Montreal district and Upper Canada
would probably be found arrayed on one side, and
French Canada—that is, the country from Three
Rivers downwards to the Gulf—on the other.
The British, however, are to their opponents
nearly as two to one; but, unfortunately, they are
neither so compact nor so resolute in the asser-
tion of their rights as the French are in the
maintenance of their exclusive ‘ nationality.”
‘‘This Lower Canadian rivalry,” said a gentle-
man to me, whilst conversing upon political sub-

THE NORTHERN EXODUS. 257

jects, ‘‘is entirely attributable to the privileges
and immunities granted by England to these
people when she took possession of Canada. The
policy was short-sighted, however liberal. Had
the English Government then abolished French
laws and the French language, the Lower
Canadian population would have been compelled
to amalgamate more freely with their English
fellow-subjects ; and the country would have been
saved an infinity of trouble, while its prosperity,
instead of being retarded, would unquestionably
have been advanced.”

About this time a general exodus had set in
from the Federal States, to various portions of
the Province, a movement indubitably induced
by the President's threatened conscription. As
many as four hundred people passed over the
Niagara Suspension Bridge in oneday. Through
Detroit the rush had been tremendous. The
trains arrived laden with young and middle-aged
men from all parts of the West, who were “ flying
to Canada like cravens to escape the draught.”
So observed a local journal. People were cross-
ing the frontier in shoals. The railway “ cars”

and the steamboats were crowded to inconveni- .

ence. Many of the refugees were mechanics, and
young men between the ages of eighteen and
thirty, and consequently liable to the first

258 ENGLISH AMERICA.

draught. Among the rest were Federal soldiers
—deserters from the army—and others who had
fled from a land of terrors, to escape Southern
fever or Southern bullets. One day a train en-
tered London, containing about fifty young
Northerners. When jumping on to the platform,
one of them ejaculated :—

‘Hurrah, boys! here we are all safe at last!
‘God Save the Queen,’ and ‘ Rule Britannia!’ ”

An officer belonging to the Military Train
addressed me from Montreal in the following
strain :—

‘¢ Since you left this city it has become quite
inundated with supporters of the Union, who
require change of air during this hot season, pour
vasser le temps. Some persons have been so un-
generous as to intimate that the presence of these
people is attributable to their efforts to avoid con-
scription—a statement which neither you nor I
can accredit.’’

Indeed this incursion was unparalleled. The
newspapers of Upper Canada were unanimous in
recording the immense influx of persons who, by
some means or another, had contrived to smuggle
themselves across the frontier. So great was the
legion of visitors that in certain towns no accom-
modation could be obtained either in hotels or
lodging-houses; while the phrase ‘“ American

ad.

GUARDING THE FRONTIER. 259

refugee”” had become as common in Canada
as Italian or French refugee used formerly to be
in New York.

For several weeks did this ‘“‘ skedaddling”’ un-
interruptedly continue from the States, notwith-
standing that a military cordon was established
along the frontier, with provost-marshals to de-
tect and arrest fugitives. Some recalcitrants
while endeavouring to evade the dreaded conscrip-
tion not only risked but positively encountered
death in the attempt. I was informed by a fine,
strapping young fellow who had succeeded in
effecting his escape from New York, that three
men were shot in trying to elude the guard
posted near Niagara Bridge. The young gentle-
man to whom I have just referred, happened to
be a fellow voyager from America to Europe
during the previous year, when he gave great
offence by the swaggering manner in which he
spoke of the Americans, and the supercilious con-
tempt he manifested for English institutions.
But he had become greatly crestfallen when I
encountered him in Quebec. He informed me
that upon his return home he had found matters
too disagreeable to induce him to remain; that
the President had issued a proclamation such as
was likely to interfere with his personal liberty ;
therefore, deeming prudence the better part of
valour, he accordingly determined to “quit his

260 ENGLISH AMERICA.

country and his father’s house.” So he got into
a car one fine morning, and never stopped till he
reached within ten miles of Rouse’s Point. The
night being dark, and the train travelling slowly,
he ran the risk of jumping off the ‘‘car,”’ which he
succeeded in accomplishing without detriment to
his life or limbs. He then pursued his journey on
foot, and by this means evaded the sentinel stationed
at therailway terminus. Unfortunately the luggage
hehad brought with him he thought it advisable not
to claim, as detection may have resulted there-
from ; so, being limited to the resources neces-
sary to defray his expenses to Europe, whither
he was bound, his condition was anything but
enviable. To escape from the train before reach-
ing Rouse’s Point was evide tly an afterthought,
upon ascertaining that pickets were posted in the
vicinity of the railway station.

The expedients adopted by numbers of young
men in the better walks of life, in order to cross
the frontier, were as ludicrous as they were inge-
nious, Some disguised themselves in women’s
garb; a few escaped by having procured Crimean
medals—which I was informed would then fetch
a high premium in New York—and thereby pass-
ing themselves off for British subjects; others
stowed themselves away in ships; while more
daring adventurers ran the risk of suffocation by
suffering themselves to be placed in casks, and

re

AN EXTRAORDINARY NOTIFICATION. 261

then deposited as freight in the holds of vessels !
Every species of Yankee ingenuity it was possible
io devise, was employed to avoid the dreaded
horrors of conscription. The fact is, that the
Northern people seemed to have lost all heart and
hope, and “‘ the Young Napoleon’s” retreat from
Harrison’s Landing, with the mere remnant of an
army, to the point of his departure months before,
without achieving a single military triumph or
advantaye, was not calculated to revive either the
one or the other. General McClellan had had a
series of dire disasters, that hovered about hira
‘“‘as doth the raven o’er the infected house.”
His defeat and retreat, combined with the
decimation of his army by battle and disease,
were severe punishments enough for that silly
egotism and egregious boasting which he dis-
played before he moved ‘ onwards to Richmond.”
But the gods are just, and invariably frustrate the
schemes of human arrogance.

At this juncture a very extraordinary notifica-
tion appeared in the Montreal Herald to the fol-
lowing effect :—

“NOTICE TO AMERICAN CITIZENS IN CANADA.

“ American citizens liable to military duty, now sojourning
in Conada, are informed that if they return to the United
States by the 15th of August, or before any draft is made, they
will be permitted to return to their respective places of resi-
dence without molestation.—August 15th, 1862.’’

henpet eum geretne en eeene

262 ENGLISH AMERICA.

My first impression led me to suppose that this
notice had been issued by the Federal States
Consul at Montreal; probably my conjecture may
not have been ill-founded. Still, was it not re-
markable that the document should have borne
no signature? Then it struck me that some
officious and not official individual had inserted
the same with the view of indulging his ironical
humour. But how could this have been when
the Herald was decidedly anti-secessional in its
policy, and possessed the reputation of being a
Federal organ—so that the proprietor and
editor would assuredly have suffered no ruse to
be practised on him. All things considered, I
was led to the conclusicn that the notice referred
to had emanated from an authentic source.

Agents of the Federal Government were also
scattered over the Province, endeavouring, it was
averred, to enlist men for the Northern service
by the offer of bounties combined with collateral
advantages. Some endeavoured to cloak their
legitimate mission by the flimsy pretext of pro-
curing employment for young and able-bodied
men. Their nefarions object, however, was speedily
discovered ; consequently their efforts to augment
the Northern army were nipped in the bud. One
day intelligence was transmitted to the authori-
ties that an American staying at one of the hotels

A YANKEE EMISSARY. 268

in Quebec had been holding out inducements to
persons to violate their allegiance as subjects of
the Queen. It was said that he offered to pay
the travelling expenses of young men willing to
accompany him into the States, and that he
pointed out the peculiar advantages derivable
from enlistment while high rateg of, bounty pre-
vailed. The Judge of Sessions had taken steps to
ascertain whether any unlawful attempts of this
nature had been made. Meanwhile the fellow
decamped. I have seen the suspected individual,
and candidly confess that there was something
about him anything but reassuring. If there be
any truth in the proverb, “ Vultus est index
animi,” then am I right in my conjecture. He
possessed a villanous look, that upon the very
first sight inspired the beholder with distrust.
One evening a scene of excitement occurred in
the bar-room of the hotel, where this man and
myself were staying. The Yankee adventurer
had attracted the numerous guests of the estab-
lishment, and even strangers from the streets, so
that the spacious bar-room was densely thronged.
A negro melodist—that is, a white man with a
blackened face—happened to be playing upon a
banjo. The suspected individual, and one or two
of his associates, endeavoured to get the melodist
to perform ‘‘ Yankee Doodle,” but the attempt was

264. ENGLISH AMERICA.

hissed down, followed by shouts of execration.
Finally, the ‘ National Anthem” was struck up by
desire, when every head was immediately un-
covered.. I simply narrate this circumstance as
indicative of loyal feeling on the part of the
British population. After this occasion we heard
no more of the American, with the exception
that he had started by the night train—no one
knew wither. As it was, he had a narrow
escape from being roughly handled; but in all
probability, had he delayed his departure but a
tew hours longer, he would have been secured and
deposited in prison.

Next day I was attracted by the presence of a
Federal soldier, of most woe-begone aspect,
having his uniform hanging in shreds. He came
to the principal entrance of the Russell House,
thrust in his head, and looked wistfully about.

‘What or whom do you require?” I asked,
drily; at the same time observing the United
States buttons on his grey shoddy uniform.

‘‘Sare,” he answered, with bated breath,
' “ain’t there a recruiting serjant here? I calki-
late to see him.”

This interrogative fully explained the objects,
and was ‘confirmation strong” of the illegality
of the suspected person’s mission.

‘*T am not aware,” I observed, ‘of any such

A DISCHARGED FEDERAL SOLDIER. 265

individual as you Jook for being in the hotel.
There was, however, an American here yesterday,
about whom unpleasant rumours were in circula-
tion ; so much so that he took his hasty departure.
Is that the person you are after ?”

‘¢ Wall, I guess, sare, that’s the man I’m look-
ing up. We were in the same regiment, sare, and
he was my serjant.”

‘¢ Then his object in Canada was not good,” I
rejoined,

‘“‘ As for that, sare, I guess I can’t say; but
I want to see him slick.”

“‘T am afraid,” I remarked, “ that your pre-
sence in. Quebec will cause you some annoyance.
I suppose you are a deserter ?”

“ No, mister, I ain’t that, either. I’ve been in
a many actions and got wounded last June, in
them seven days’ battle before Richmond. Look’ee
here, sare,” and he held up his right hand, which
I observed was minus the forefinger.

‘“‘T perceive you have been wounded, and ap-
parently are no deserter,” I continued. ‘ Surely
you have a decent pension, and need not be in the
pitiable plight you seem ?”

‘* No, mister,” ne replied, “ I’ve been in three
engagements ; got wounded as you see, sare, and
when | quit the hospital, [ was turned adrift
without pension, or reward of any kind. Tis

VOL. I. N

266 ENGLISH AMERICA.

a very hard case; but I guess there are hundreds
in the same fix. So I came to this country
to hunt up something to do; and hearing that my
old comrade was here, I was told he had money,
and I wanted assistance! That’s the entire truth,
sare.”

Although but a comparatively young man, this
poor fellow locked old, shrivelled, bronzed, and
withered ; and as far as my judgment went, was
pertectly incapacitated from working for a living.

A Northern emissary, named Max, was some-
what more successful in Hamilton, Canada West,
than his colleague who had just made a sudden
exit from Quebec. The former succeeded in en-
gaging a number of Canadians in that city upon
pretence of affording them work in a cotton
factory at Chicago. Twenty of the supposed
employés went on to Windsor, intending to cross
over to Detroit. Before reaching their destina-
tion, however, a few were rendered insensible by
drugged liquor. On arriving at Detroit, they
were accosted by Federal officers, when the eyes
of the sober men opened to the snare set to entrap
them. Clearly, it was intended to force them
into the Federal ranks, as there was no cotton
factory in the town. Discovering the trick that
had been practised upon them, they seized the
miserable German and compelled him to recross

PRANKS OF FEDERAL SENTRIES. 267

the river, and then and there, under threat of
instant immersion, caused him reluctantly to dis-
gorge three hundred dollars, partly as a recom-
pense and partly to defray their expenses home to
their families. This amount was generously
shared with ten other dupes, who had been simi-
larly deceived, and had travelled to Windsor,
where the occurrence created considerable excite-
ment. It was fortunate for the German that the
deception he practised did not cause him the for-
feiture of his life. I regret to state that the
tempting offers of bounty held out by the War
Office at Washington, had induced several British
soldiers to desert from the garrison on the Island
of Orleans. The garricon of Quebec, however,
was creditably free from such disaffection, although
unhappily tainted with crimes of still deeper
turpitude, to which I shall duly revert.

During the exodus from the States, Federal
sentries, stationed on the Niagara frontier, had
been playing pranks with Canadians. These
sentinels had received orders to prevent American
citizens from crossing over into Canada. <A bevy
of undisciplined soldiers construed their instruc-
tions into a right to challenge, and bring to, boats
belonging to the other side; and, in order to
compel obedience, frequently fired into the same.

One day a sailing boat started from Queenstown

N 2

268 ENGLISH AMERICA.

on a pleasure excursion; and although having
received three shots, one of which riddled the
sail, she refused to be ‘‘ brought to,” and pursued
her way. On the following day, the Sergeant-
Major of the Canadian Rifles, four privates of the
same regiment, and half-a-dozen women, were
proceeding down the river in a row hoat, when,
without warning, they were unceremoniously fired
ut from the American shore. After the first shot
the boat was ordered to be “brought to.” The
assaulted party, hesitating whether to obey the
rude‘mandate or not, were fired upon a second time.
As the Sergeant-Major was ignorant of what the
firing meant, he determined to find it out; and
accordingly directed the steersman to make for
the other side. It was then about seven o’clock
p-m., and quite light at the time. Upon landing
the British soldiers stepped up to the assaulting
party, and inquired, in no very complimentary
language, what they meant by such dastardly
conduct, and why they should have fired upon
women in the boat? To these interrogatives the
sentinels snivelled out a number of paltry
excuses, to the effect that “it was a mistake
firing at them ;” that they ‘ did not observe the
women ;” and that they “had orders to stop all
the cowards who were leaving the States to avoid
the draft.” Soindignant were the ‘‘Britishers”’ that

ing
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A VOLUNTEER HERO. 269

but for the urgent interference of the Sergeant-
Major, unarmed as they were, they would have
fallen on the Yankee guard and flung them into
the river.

Shortly after my return to the Capital I made
the very agreeable acquaintance of Lieutenant-
Colonel Light, commandar of a Militia and
Volunteer Rifle Company, a stock, Canada
West, the very beau ideal a soldier and a
patriot. The Colonel’s mission to Quebec was to
press on the Government the expediency of em-
bodying additional Volunteers in the county
of Oxford, especially as five hundred men had,
for several months previously, been willing to
join the active force of the Province. This sug-
gestion was highly approved of by the Premier,
who accordingly sanctioned the formation of four
additional Rifle Corps and two troops of Cavalry in
the county specified. Ii was thought that, as he did
this for one district, the probability was that a
similar policy would be pursued towards others,
until the country would be placed in a fair
position of defence should any rupture unfortu-
nately occur with the neighbouring States. And
here itis important to make one observation.
The county of Oxford is notorious in Canadian
history, for having supplied nearly the entire of
Duncan’s army during the Rebellion, of which

270 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Duncan and Mackenzie were the celebrated
leaders. But since then what a change has come
over the spirit of the people! The loyal feeling
existing in 1862 throughout the whole of this
once rebellious district afforded a striking but not
less pleasing contrast to that which obtained
during the revolutionary period of 1837-38.

Colonel Light is unquestionably a man of mark,
and a disinterestedly loyal Volunteer command-
ant, who has “done the State some service ;”
characteristics that will readily be inferred from
the few eventful incidents of his life, which I
append by way of memoir :—

Ever since the year 1837, Colonel Light has
been engaged in the Militia service, both active
and sedentary ; in fact, was but seventeen years of
age when he first became a volunteer. During
the insurrection he had charge of a cavalry troop
at Norwich, under command of the late Sir
Allan McNab. Then he volunteered into the
Naval Brigade at Chippawa, under Com-
modore Drew, who appointed him coxswain
of a gun boat. He subsequently assisted
in the attack on the insurgent steamer, Caro-
line, engaged in conveying ammunitions of
war to Navy Island, in the Niagara channel, and
was bowman of the boat under command of
Lieut. Elmsley, R.N., the crew of which as-

ted
me
ing
his
not
ned

nd-

”
e 3

DARING OF A BOAT’S OREW. 271

saulted, boarded, and finally burned that vessel.
Colonel Light is the individual referred to by Sir
Francis Head, in his “ Narrative,” as having un-
moored the steamer from the Wharf at Fort
Schlosser, while under a sharp fire of rifles, and
as having been accidentally left on board the
Caroline alone, the vessel meanwhile burning
rapidly, and as rapidly drifting towards the
Niagara Falls. From this appallingly perilous
position he was relieved by the daring of Lieut.
Baird’s boat crew, who, at imminent peril to them-
selves, succeeded in rescuing their comrade from
@ fearful death! A few minutes had but elapsed
when the blazing mass was precipitated over the
furious cataract into the boiling waters—a moment
hidden, and then appearing in frittered, segre-
gated remnants, frizzing and floating on the
surface !—a wild and majestic scene worthy of a
Raphael’s art or a Dante’s genius to delineate or
describe.

As a reward for the daring exhibited by the
young hero, in assisting to assault and burn the
Caroline, he was appointed aide-de-camp to Com-
modore Drew. Afterwards he raised a party of
Volunteers to man agun-boat for the purpose of
attacking the American steam-ship Barceluna;
but when their guns were pointed and matches
lighted in readiness to fire, orders were received not

272 ENGLISH AMERICA.

to prosecute the assault. In 1838, Colonel Light
assisted in raising a Volunteer company, that
became amalgamated with the incorporated bat-
talion, called the Brantford Light Infantry, in
which he held rank as acting-adjutant. During
1841, he formed a Volunteer flank company of
‘minute men” for active service, if required,
under the general order of December 14, 1840.
Five years later he organised a troop of Volun-
teer cavalry, and came under the favourable
notice of Lord Cathcart, who was a friend of his
father’s. In 1857, he was elected by the High-
land Society of Oxford county to the command
of their Rifle corps; and the same year was also
appointed captain of a Volunteer cavalry troop.
He was commissioned by the Government in
1861 to take charge of and re-organise the
Woodstock Volunteer Rifle Company, when in a
demoralised condition, the Governor-General ex-
pressly stating, through Colonel de Salaberry,
Adjutant-General of Militia, that the appoin*
ment should not in any way interfere with hi.
position as Lieutenant-Colonel of the Oxford .
Volunteer force. He accordingly set vigorously
to work, got rid of all the inefficient men in the
company, so that it became reduced to five;
and since October, 1861, had augmented his
command to fifty-nine effective members. These

TURF CLUB RACES. 273

are all picked men, as none were allowed to join
the. force without having first received the
Colonel’s approval. A drill school had been es-
tablished since the time of the Trent difficulty,
which was regularly attended by commissioned
officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates.
Colonel Light’s father was a full Colonel in the
25th Light Infantry, and had seen much active
service. His uncle is Admiral Smart, K.H., who
is in command of the Channel Fleet. The
subject’ of this brief notice—who has resided, as
must be already inferred, over thirty years in

. Canada,—assured me that he did not believe one

disloyal or disaffected person was to be found in
the western district of the Province — none
willing to exchange British for American rule.

1 was induced during my stay in Quebec to at-
tend the annual Turf Club races, which took place
in September, three miles from town, on the St.

’ Charles’ Road. Hitherto these races had been

held on the plains of Abraham. Owing, how-
ever, to some fracas that had taken place between
a party of military and some civilians, the use of
this classic ground was forbidden for sporting
purposes. The chief interest centred in the
opening race for the Queen’s Plate of fifty
guineas, contributed by Her Majesty, for horses
bred in Lower Canada only, and which had never
nN 6

274 ENGLISH AMERICA.

won public money. Six entries were made for
this race. Contrasted with the English sport of
a similar nature, the affair was most miserable.
The course itself—enclosed with planks—was un-
suitable, being but halfa mile in circumference.
In the centre was a small stand, shiagle-roofed,
designed for stewards and a few favoured indi-
viduals, Some yards apart stood the “ grand
stand,” a rough and unsightly-looking structure,
one hundred feet long by perhaps twenty feet
wide, partially filled with any but the elite of
Quebec society. Here and there, like an oasis in
the desert, peered a female face, half hidden by a .
parasol, which, without exhibiting any particular
radiance, relieved the dull monotony of the scene.
The more select portion of the spectators occupied
front tiers, while behind were perched a number
of persons, who, from their appearance and attire,
I judged to be caléche drivers. Upon descending
to the basement, I found it was open and appro-
priated as a refreshment “bar,” by an hotel
keeper in the Lower Town, who, I was informed,
paid a high premium for the privilege; but
whose villanous New York brandy, and new
rye whisky, soon exhibited their delirious effects
upon those who had imbibed even but*moderately
thereof. On the grounds,—covered with débris
left after the workmen,—were a few private

THE GAME OF ROULETTE. 275

vehicles, any number of caléches, and a soli-
tary Carriage and pair, looking melancholy in
its isolation, in which were the only ladies I
observed during the day’s proceedings. His Ex-
cellency the Governor-General, and his son (a
youth about fifteen years of age), attended by his
lordship’s private secretary, Mr. Godley, and his
aide-de-camp, Captain Ratallack, arrived on
horseback some time after the first heat had been
run. Several rows occurred, and most of the
waiters got drunk, and were lying about the field
long before the races had.conclude’. No police-
men were present that I could observe, although
the deprivation was of little importance, for a
more awkward, undisciplined, puny, and in-
efficient force could not be found out of Quebec.

Contiguous to the “ grand stand ” was fixed a
roulette table, presided over by an old grey-
headed, grey-whiskered Irishman, who, in a loud
stentorian voice, that almost frightened the
horses, and with consummate confidence in the
effect of his invitation, roared out :—

‘¢ Now then, sporting gents, here the father
stands with the mother, and the mother with the
daughter, put your money down anywhere you
like! This is a branch of the great English
roulette, where the English put crowns and
doubloons. Two must win every time. Pay

276 ENGLISH AMERICA.

‘your penny or a York shillings a piece, whichever
you like. Two are sure to win !”

Outside of the course was erected an apple stand,
and four rough, hastily-constructed, unfinished
plank booths, wherein refreshments were served
out. The shanties looked as uninviting as the
viands they contained. In a central position was
a marquee, the only decent-looking temporary
structure that could be observed. People who
could not afford, or who wished to evade payment of
their “quarter” for admission, clambered up on
the wooden fences, from which uncomfortable but
elevated positions several of the spectators tumbled
off, greatly to the merriment of their more fortunate
neighbours. The whole arrangement had a
“rowdy” look about it, and impressed me far
from favourably. After the races terminated a
scene of indescribable confusion followed in front
of the entrance gate. This was occasioned by the
difficulty of getting vehicles to move, the road
being partially blocked up by dirty-looking
groups of people, besides a collection of caléches,
the drivers meanwhile heaping imprecations upon
each other in their favourite patois, more expres-
sive than elegant. I had quite enough of a Quebec
race-course the first day, so I did not repeat my
visit, but left the hurdle-race to go off as best it
might.

a

A MILITARY MURDER. 277

Within the incredible period of two months,
three military murders were perpetrated in
Quebec, the victim on each occasion being a
sergeant of one of the regiments in garrison, and
the murderer a private in the same corps. The
case that produced most ‘excitement and sym-
pathy was that of Colour-Sergeant Ryall, the par-
ticulars of whose assassination may perhaps be
worthy of record :—

One morning, shortly after the 17th Regiment
had assembled in the quadrangular parade
ground of the Jesuits’ Barrack, and were in the
act of ‘falling in,” a private of No. 5 Company,
named Tynan, stepped one pace to the front,
deliberately leveled his rifle, and shot Colour-
Sergeant Ryall, who happened to be but a few
yards distant from the assassin. The ball entered
the Sergeant’s left breast, and perforated his heart,
producing instantaneous death. Immediately the
murderer was seized and conveyed to the guard-
house cells. On his way thither he acknowledged
that he was aware of the crime he had com-
mitted, but manifested not the slightest com-
punction.

Sergeant Ryall,—who has left a wife and seven
children to deplore his miserable fate,—had been
seventeen years in the service, although having
scarcely arrived at what is technically termed the

278 ENGLISH AMERICA.

prime of life. For seven years he occupied the
post of Colour-Sergeant. He was considered in
every respect a most exemplary man, lenient to
those under him, and always acting under the
high promptings and principles of duty. No
soldier in the regiment was more generally es-
teemed. The assassin, Tynan, had been nearly
eight years in the service, and up to the time of
this melancholy occurrence, with the exception of
being remarkable for quickness of temper, was
tolerably well conducted. At the inquest next
day, when the prisoner was brought before the
jury (in the custody of a guard with drawn
bayonets), and while in the presence of the
murdered man, he was asked by the Coroner if he
recognised the body. To this interrogative Tynan
replied, without betraying the least emotion :—
“TI do; it is that of Colour-Sergeant Ryall !”
From all that I could learn, and from my per-
sonal observation of the culprit when in prison,
I am inclined to attribute the horrible murder of
Sergeant Ryall to homicidal mania. I take this
view of the lamentable occurrence no less on the
ground of humanity than in defence of the
British army. It was averred that Tynan had
entertained a grudge against his victim, simply
because he was ordered to procure a new shako
and some other matters, for which the private

INSUBORDINATION IN THE ARMY. 279

would have had to pay out of his scanty resources.
But one cannot reconcile it to reason that so
trivial a circumstance could have engendered a
feeling of deadly hostility. For some time be-
fore the murderer had manifested symptoms
which had caused him to be placed under strict
surveillance. His comrades affirmed that,
‘although ordinarily a quiet man in the regiment,
he was nevertheless occasionally subject to
cerebral attacks, and that he had only re-
turned from hospital, where he had been
treated for temporary insanity, just prior to
the perpetration of the horrible deed. A sergeant
of the same regiment assured me, however, that
the assassin “‘ knew very well what he was about.”
But, if there exist sufficient grounds to establish
these periodical aberrations of intellect, then I
think there is something like prima facie evidence
that the wretched man was impelled to the com-
mission of this crime under an influence which
seems as uncontrollable as it is unaccountable.

After the assassination, in a similar manner, of
a sergeant at Montreal, I was dining at mess with
Captain McFarlan, and other officers of the
Military Train, stationed in that city. Conversation
happened to turn upon the fact and frequency of
these high-class offences in the British army,
upon which one officer remarked :—

280 ENGLISH AMERICA.

‘¢T should not be surprised if these cowardly
murders would spread throughout every garrison
town in the Province. If condign punishment,
by order of court-martial, be not inflicted, and
that summarily, upon the perpetrators of such
enormities, instead of handing the culprits over to
the civil authorities, we shall next hear of officers,
and not sergeants, becoming the victims either
of cold-blooded malice or of delirious resentment.”

Those who have studied the startling phases of
criminal jurisprudence, are well aware that on the
commission of some extraordinary crime, others
of a similar character almost invariably succeed.
Whether the publicity of such an occurrence as
that I have presupposed, acts upon the latent
criminal propensities hitherto undeveloped, or
whether to an ill-regulated and ill-balanced mind
the passion for notoriety may not be paramount
to even the love of life, is not for a non-profes-
sional writer like myself to decide.

A scene so solemnly touching and affecting as
the funeral of the deceased Colour-Sergeant, had
rarely been witnessed in Quebec. At nine o’clock
a.m. on the day of the funeral, the coffined re-
mains of the lamented soldier were removed from
the dead-house of the military hospital to the
open space in the Barrack. <A procession was
then formed in the following order :-—

A TOUCHING INCIDENT. 281

Firing party of 18 men with arms reversed,
A Sergeant and Corporal.
The Bands of the 17th Regiment and 60th Rifles.
The Undertaker.
THE COFFIN,

With hat and sword of deceased, covered with a black pall
and Union-jack, borne by eight Non-commissioned
Officers and Pall-bearers.

The Wife and Children of Deceased.,
Carriage containing Female Relatives and Friends of
Deceased.

Privates of the 17th Regiment,
Non-commissioned Officers of the 17th Regiment.
One Company of the 60th Rifles,

One Company of Artillery.

Pensioners and Citizens,

The Colonel and other Commissioned Officers
of the 17th Regiment,

When the cortége moved on at avery slow pace
the bands alternately played the ‘‘ Dead March” in

Saul, At the Cemetery gate the procession was

met by the Abbé Ferland, one of the Chaplains
to the forces. The burial service having con-
cluded, the firing party, who had previously taken
up position by the side of the grave, were ordered to
load, and three successive volleys were discharged
—the last sad but honourable tribute that can be
paid to a soldier, no matter how inferior or dis-
tinguished his rank. Soon as the firing ceased,
the “National Anthem” was struck up, during the
performance of which most of the spectators
stood uncovered. A touching incident finally
occurred when two sons of the deceased Sergeant
supported their mother to the brink of the grave,
where they witnessed the lowering of the body to

282 ENGLISH AMERICA.

its last resting place. Traces of sorrow were
plainly observable on every countenance; and
those who had fought many a battle had now a
difficulty in suppressing their emotions. Over a
thousand civilians were present at the ceremony. .

The Plains of Abraham were one day the scene
of avery brilliant military spectacle, on which
occasion all the troops in garrison turned out.
This display had ostensibly for its object the pre-
sentation of the Victoria Cross to Captain Burslam,
60th Rifles; but Colonel Paynter, the Command-
ant, seized the opportunity to take farewell of,
and address a few parting words to, his men be-
fore resigning his post and returning to Europe.
Their Excellencies Lord Monck and Earl Mulgrave
(who had arrived the day before), and some
Members of the Cabinet were present. There
was a paucity of spectators, who consisted for the
most part of ragged urchins and idle labourers.
Nothing seems to arouse the ‘ Quebecers,” they
are so torpid, mentally and physically—not even
a grand military demonstration.

A square having been formed, Colonel Puynter
proceeded to attach the decoration to the gallant
Captain’s breast, a ceremony accompanied by ex-
pressions highly, and no doubt deservedly, flatter-
ing to the honoured recipient. The Colonel then
addressed the troops in simple but energetic

BY

COLONEL PAYNTER. 283

language. He complimented them for the
manner in which his slightest order had been
obeyed during the three and a half years he held
command of the Quebec garrison, and adverted with
marked emotion to the melancholy occurrences
that had taken place, the perpetration of which
he attributed entirely to an indomitable love for
strong drink, unhappily indulged in by many
British soldiers.

‘¢ The army,” observed Colonel Paynter, ‘‘ had
never been wanting in physical bravery in the
field, but moral bravery in the camp was often
wanting. A soldier who would dash the tempt-
ing glass from his lips would be respected by his
companions, and prove himself possessed of the
highest degree of bravery —moral courage !”

Perhaps in no country are such vile liquors re-
tailed as in the Province. Bad Canadian grain
whisky is adulterated with the most deleterious
compounds,—amongst the rest what is termed
“silent spirit,” which, when taken in copious
quantities, exercises maddening influences upon
the brain, thereby giving rise to egregious crimes.
And this is the abominable stuff sold to British
soldiers in those miserable haunts where, un-
happily, they are accustomed to resort.

When Colonel Paynter had taken leave of his
men, the troops went through a variety of evolu-

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284 ENGLISH AMERICA,

tions, “‘marching past” in quick and slow time and
firing by sections, The sharp-shooters performed
their complicated manceuvres with great precision.
Finally, the entire garrison formed into line and
fired a feu de joie, the effect of which was highly
effective. A battery of four field-pieces was
likewise brought into requisition, and greatly en-
hanced the magnificence of the spectacle. To
me the event was a godsend, as it served to
relieve the dull—very duil monotony of life in
Quebec.

a
ony

CHAPTER XIV.

THE LATE SIR ALLAN NAPIER MACNAB.

Antecedents of the Defunct Baronet—His Progenitors—The
School Boy Soldier and the Midshipman—Studies Law, and
Commences Practice as an Advocate—Attains the Rank of
Queen’s Counsel—Becomes a Member and Speaker of the
Legislative Assembly—He Engages in the Rebellion, and
Marches to the Protection of Toronto—He Receives the
Honour of Knighthood and the Commendation of the Queen
-—Sir Allan's Parliamentary Career—His Attendance upon
the Prince of Wales—His Personal Appearance and Charac-
ter—His Last lllness—Indecorous Scenes at his Death and

Burial—The Protestant Clergyman and the Roman Catholia
Bishop.

AN universal, if not a profound sense of sorrow was
created throughout the Province by the death of Sir
Allan MacNab, who expired at Dundurn Castle,
(named after his grandfather’s house in the Bigh-
lands of Scotland), Hamilton, C.W., about the
middle of August. Although for several years
Sir Allan had laboured under occasional attacks
of indisposition, nevertheless he attended assi-
duously to his parliamentary duties, and it was
not expected that so stirring and useful a life
would be brought to so sudden a close. A short

ud
5

286 ENGLISH AMERICA.

sketch of this remarkable man’s career, and the
painful circumstances that attended his death,
will not fail to interest especially lovers of the
‘¢ sensational.”

Sir Allan MacNab, Bart., Member of the Legis-
lative Council, was born at Niagara, in the year
1798. His grandsire, Major Robert MacNab, of
the 42nd Regiment, or ‘‘ Black Watch,” was a
Royal Forester, and resided upon a small estate
called Dundern, at the head of Loch Earn. His
father held a commission, first in the 71st Regi-
ment, and afterwards in a dragoon corps, but
was attached to General Simcoe’s staff during the —
American Revolution. So soon as peace was restored
Captain MacNab accompanied General Simcoe to
Canada. When the Americans attacked Toronto,
Sir Allan, then a mere school-boy, formed one of
the number of youths selected as able to carry a
musket; and after the authorities surrendered
the city, he retreated with the army to Kingston.

Shortly afterwards he was rated as midship-
man on board Sir James Yeo’s ship, when he
joined the expedition to Genessee, and other
places on the American side of the Lake. Again
we find him as an ensign doing good service in
the 100th Regiment on the Niagara frontier, and
at Plattsburg. Finally the peace left him on
half-pay. He next turned his attention to the

SIR ALLAN MAOCNAB. 287

study of law, and was employed as Clerk of the
Journals of the Legislative Assembly. In 1825,

he was called to the bar, when he commenced —

practice as an advocate at Hamilton. After some
time he was promoted to the dignity of Queen’s
Counsel, the first occasion on which that honour
had been conferred in Canada. Four years later
he was returned to Parliament for Wentworth
county. While going through the routine of a
member, and also Speaker of the House, Sir
Allan was summoned into an arena, probably
more congenial to his tastes, by the eventful
Rebellion of 1837. His early acquaintance with
military tactics, his perfect knowledge of the
country, combined with his courage, activity, and
facility of command, rendered him most promi-
nent among the Loyalists who took part in the
defence of Canada. With the men of yore,
hastily summoned from their farms and work-
shops, he bravely marched to the protection of
Toronto, and, as I have already stated, took part
in the Navy Island operations. For these valu-
able services he received the honour of Knight-
hood, in addition to the commendation of the
Queen and the Provincial Legislature.

After the Union, Sir Allan MacNab was elected
to Parliament for the city of Hamilton, several
times in succession. He became Speaker of Lord

288 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Metcalfe’s Parliament in 1844, and materially
assisted his party in their retention of office
under trying circumstances. When the Baldwin
and Lafontaine Administration was formed in 1848,
Sir Allan took the leadership of the Conserva-
tive Opposition, and strongly inveighed agaiust
the Rebellion Losses Bill—a resistance which
resulted in the burning of the Parliamentary Build-
ings in Montreal. In 1854, he was called upon
to form a Government, in which he retained office
until 1856, when he was ousted by an alleged
intrigue carried on by his colleague in the Go-
vernment, Mr. J. A. Macdonald, the late Premier,
generally known as “ the Disraeli of the House,’’
and unquestionably a shrewd, clever, and gifted
statesman, of whose acquaintance I feel proud.
Shortly before the dissolution of Parliament in
1857, Sir Allan resigned his seat for Hamilton,
and proceeded to this country with the view of
making it his permanent abode. Accordingly
in 1859, having previously received the rank of
baronet, he became a candidate for the borough
of Brighton, but was defeated by a considerable
majority.‘ His health, which had been delicate,
having improved, he altered his former intention,
and returned to Canada—a circumstance to which
his non-success at the Brighton hustings may
have in part contributed. In 1860, he became a

SIR ALLAN MACNAB. 289

candidate for a seat in the Legislative Council,
and was duly elected. Subsequently he became
reconciled to Mr. J. A. Macdonald, leader of the
Upper Canada section of the Government, and at
the opening of the Session of 1862, was chosen
the first elective Speaker of the Council.

No public individual in Canada had enjoyed
similar honours to those conferred upon Sir
Allan MacNab. First we behold him as Clerk in
the Legislative Assembly ; afterwards its Speaker ;
then a Knight; subsequently Premier; then a
Baronet ; and finally Aide-de-camp to the Queen,
and attendant upon the Prince of Wales during
his tour through the Province. Sir Allan was
a hale, good-looking, rubicund personage, not
what may be termed exactly an old man, being
only in his 65th year. A few days prior to his
death he seemed in excellent health and spirits.
The last public act he performed was the signing
of a writ appointing a new election for the
Niagara district. A brief illness, consequent upon
an attack of gastric fever, terminated this emi-
nent statesman’s existence.

The deceased baronet first married (in May,
1821) Elizabeth, daughter of Lieutenant Daniel
Brook, who died in 1825, by whom he had two
children, one son and a daughter. The former
died in 1834, and the latter married, in 1849,

VOL. I. Oo

LALLA AGES UE ee tet cen

290 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Assistant Commissary-General Davenport. Sir
Allan was again allied (in 1846) to Mary, eldest
daughter of Mr. Sheriff Stewart, by whom he
had issue two daughters, the eldest of whom
married the Right Hon. Viscount Bury, eldest
son of the Earl of Albemarle. The younger
daughter, was married in 1861, to ason of Sir

. Dominick Daly, Governor of South Australia.
This concise sketch of Sir Allan MacNab’s career
exhibits him in a prominent and even dis-
tinguished light, as a soldier, a lawyer, and a
politician, As a permanent and active leader in
the affairs of our Canadian dependency, and
associated with all the stirring events of the past
half-century, his loss was deeply felt by many
who had witnessed the same scenes and taken part
in the same events.

While inclined from a feeling of delicacy to
abide by the maxim, De mortuis nil nisi bonum,
still I cannot refrain from mentioning that
Sir Allan MacNab’s career was characterised by
anything but a high sense of political honour or
even commercial probity. There were some
ugly blemishes in his character, which have left a
stigma on his name. Yet, for these defects due
allowance must be made when we take into con-
sideration the condition of society wherein he
moved; and that the acts of public men are not,

SIR ALLAN MACNAB. 291

apparently, governed by such strict laws of
morality in Canada as in England.

The unseemly and indecorous scenes that
occurred just previous to the death, and at the
burial of Sir Allan MacNab, justly provoked
much comment and animadversion throughout
the Province. It was alleged that Sir Allan em-
braced the tenets of Romanism, when in articulo
mortis; a statement which Mr. Geddes, the
Protestant. clergyman of the parish, distinctly
disavowed, but one which Dr. Farrell, the Roman
Catholic bishop, as assiduously maintained. The
testimony of the former is, however, borne out
by cogent confirmatory evidence; that of the
latter rests merely upon dubious representations.
Manifestly, the weight of evidence is favourable
to the Protestant champion, who asserts (and his
testimony is supported by trustworthy witnesses),
that after the Roman Catholic prelate had visited
Sir Allan, and, as was alleged, received the dying
baronet ‘into the bosom of the Church,” he
entered the solemn chamber and held such con-
verse with the sick man as left no ccubt in his
mind that Sir Allan had died, as he had lived, a
consistent member of the Anglican communion.
Perhaps it may be advisable to re-produce a
portion of Mr. Geddes’s statement, for the satis-
faction of such of the defunct baronet’s friends

0 2

292 ENGLISH AMERICA.

in England as may not be acquainted with the
facts, before I proceed to comment upon that of
Bishop Farrell.

Mr. Geddes affirms :—“‘ When I entered Sir
Allan’s chamber I found him lying with his lips
closed and the expression of his features quite
natural. In the room, and close around his
couch, were about seven individuals, including
Mrs. Stuart, and Miss MacNab (sister of Sir
Allan), Doctors Craigie and Hamilton, two or
three servants, and Mrs. Boulton, a Roman
Catholic lady. I approached and addressed Sir
Allan earnestly by name. He opened his eyes,
and looked full and intelligently upon me. I
asked him if he knew me? He replied ‘ Yes.’
Tasked him whoI was? He replied, ‘ Geddes,
to be sure!’ I asked if he was glad to see me?
He answered with emotion that he was ‘very glad,’
and held out his hand to me. I told him I
had made three attempts to see him the day
before, but had been refused; but now being be-
side his dying bed, I wished to ask him a few
questions. He expressed his readiness to hear,
but said ‘make it short,’ meaning, I imagine,
that there was no time for delay, and the sooner
it was done the better.”

Having put some doctrinal questions to Sir
Allan, which were answered in the affirmative,

Yes.’
sddes,
e me?
glad,’
him I
e day
ng be-
a few
) hear,
agine,
sooner

to Sir
native,

SIR ALLAN MAOCNAB. 293

Mr. Geddes resumed :—*‘‘ Then, Sir Allan, let me
ask you, and let me understand you distinctly,
Do you desire to die in the faith of your fathers,
in that church wherein you were born and
baptized—the church in which you have been
brought up, and in which you have communi-
cated?’ Mrs. Boulton here interposed, and asked
in a soft and not very audible voice, ‘ You die a
Catholic?’ meaning a Romanist. There was no
response. I resumed, ‘ Do you desire to die in
the pure and reformed faith of the Church of
England, for which our martyred forefathers
perished at the stake?’ Hereplied earnestly and
distinctly, ‘ That’s what I do.’ I said, ‘I rejoice
to hear you say so.” I then turned to the by-
standers and said, ‘I call you all to bear witness
to this declaration of Sir Allan on his dying bed.’
I then observed, ‘ Do you desire your body to be
disposed of according to the rites of that
church ?? ‘To this he signified his assent, but
while doing so, Mr. Andrew Stuart, his brother-
in-law, rushed to the head of his bed, looked
angrily at me, and replied, ‘Mr. Geddes, I am
not going to allow this.’”

I would much prefer flinging a veil over the
subsequent proceedings in the dying baronet’s
chamber, did not the interests of truth demand
that they should be made known. When Sir

294 ENGLISH AMERICA.

Allan’s spiritual adviser said ‘“‘ Let us pray,” he
was interrupted by Mrs. MacNab, who knelt down
and prayed aloud from some Roman Catholic
book of devotion. Having finished, Mr. Geddes
essayed to repeat the appointed service from his
manual, when this lady turned round upon him,
observing, “Oh! Mr. Geddes, do not disturb Sir
Allan, he has been prepared for death.” But he
insisted, notwithstanding, that he should not be
interrupted in the discharge of his solemn duties,
and succeeded in going through the service.
After a while, Mrs. Boulton entered the apart-
ment holding in her hand a Romanist prayer-
book, from which she read two or three pages in
a loud voice; seemingly the form of prayer for
the dying. When this lady had finished, the
Protestant clergyman called upon all present to
kneel down and join him, while he ‘“‘ commended
the soul of our dear brother to God, s.ccording t
the form appointed by the Church of England.”
To his surprise this request was acceded to in
mute astonishment by those who stood around
Sir Allan’s bed. The ‘* Commendation” was
then repeated without any interruption. About
this time the dying man exclaimed, ‘ Oh! when
will the end come!’ He then waxed feebler,
his eyes became fixed, and he grew insensible.
Meanwhile Bishop Farrell arrived, and indecently

SIR ALLAN MACNAB, 295

insisted upon Mr. Geddes leaving the room.
This he refused to do, and in return requested the
bishop to retire. Mr. and Mrs. Stuart took the
part of the prelate, but the Protestant clergy-
man remained obstinately persistent. Finally, the
clerical belligerents were prevailed upon to adjourn
to another apartment. A few minutes after-
wards, Sir Allan, whose dying moments were
thus unseemly disturbed, breathed his last.
Appended to the published document of Mr.
Geddes, are the declarations of the deceased
baronet’s sister, and a note from Dr. Craigie,
certifying to its substantial accuracy.

The Roman Catholic dignitary, on the other
hand, published a prolix and inconsequent state-
ment, skilfully framed, however, but resting
wholely and solely upon that prelate’s unsup-
ported, highly-coloured, and manifestly preju-
diced testimony. He alleges that during a con-
versation he had had with Sir Allan, several
months before his demise, upon the subject of
religion, the latter had signified to him his secret
adherence to the Roman Church, and his inten-
tion of dying in her fold. Such an admission on
the part of Bishop Farrell is not honourable to
his cause, while it impugns the character for con-
sistency of one who, if he did not make this
virtue the crowning characteristic of his public

296 ENGLISH AMERICA.

and private life, nevertheless respected it in
others.

It is little short of preposterous to imagine
that while Sir Allan MacNab professed strong
attachment to the doctrines of the Anglican
Church, attended her public manifestations, and
occasionaliy partook of the sacrament at her altars,
he should at the same time secretly have given
in his adhesion to the tenets of a rival commu-
nion, and have gone so far as to signify his inten-
tion of dying a “convert” to her principles and
teachings. This would mean, in effect, that he
would lie till he was about to die, and then seek

reconciliation with and absolution of a church

whose claims upon his faith and conscience he
had pusilanimously ignored during his life! The
bishop, on his own showing, treated this alleged
statement of Sir Allan’s as a matter of course,
and came, when called, to his death-bed to com-
plete the wicked falsehood! It only proves how
some religionists ‘“‘ compass sea and land to make
one proselyte”’—none more so than the priests of
the Romish persuasion, If the story be true,
there could not be a more striking commentary
on the practices of that church of which Bishop
Farrell is so zealous a representative. The gist
of the bishop’s remarks is, that on the Sunday
immediately preceding the baronet’s demise, he

SIR ALLAN MACNAB. 297

called at the Castle, and had a brief interview
with the dying man; that when about to take
leave, Sir Allan seized his arm, at the same time
stating he had not forgotten what he had said
some time before, which the bishop construes as
referring to the conversation in the Castle garden
upon the subject of the baronet’s conversion ;
that on the Thursday following, in the presence
of Mrs. MacNab and Mr. Andrew Stuart, he
received him into the church, according to the usual
formula, after having made his solemn profession
of “the Catholic faith,” and his confession “ after
the manner of Catholics ;”” and finally that he,
the bishop, remained in the house from ten in the
morning till two in the afternoon. It was asserted
that while under the influence of morphia, the
Roman Catholic prelate was smuggled into Sir
Allan’s residence, and that while perfectly uncon-
scious of what was transpiring around him, some
ceremonies were gone through, and the dying
baronet proclaimed a ‘ convert to the Catholic
faith.” All the concurrent testimony goes to
prove that Sir Allan was really incapable of in-
telligently changing his faith on the day preced-
ing his death, and great blame was attached, and
apparently with justice, toa near relative of the
deceased.

On the day of the defunct baronet's funeral,

a)

298 ENGLISH AMERICA.

a deplorable occurrence took place that disturbed
the solemnity of the occasion. A number of dis-
tinguished personages, including judges, mem-
bers of the legislature and of the bar, in addition
to a large concourse of private citizens, assembled
to do the last sad honours to the departed
statesman, whose loss was so severely felt and ex-
tensively deplored. The cortége having arrived
at the Cemetery, a rumour gained credence that
the funeral rites of the Roman Catholic instead
of the Anglican Church would be performed at
the burial. This appeared all the more extraor-
dinary as Sir Allan was considered, during his
life, a staunch adherent to Protestant princi-
ples. An intense scene of excitement occurred.
Indeed so highly was the sensibility of the
mourners affected, that most of them withdrew
from the celebration of the sad obsequies. Sir
Allan’s sister-in-law, from her position of
executrix, was of course enabled to carry out the
alleged wishes of her deceased relative; and,
accordingly, the Roman Catholic bishop officiated
at the mournful ceremony. Public feeling in
Upper Canada was greatly irritated by this
strange and unfortunate event; and the press
did its part towards intensifying the sentiment of
religious animosity which always prevails, in a
greater or lesser degrees among certain sections of

SIR ALLAN MACNAB. 299

the Canadian people. The scene at the funeral
was only the last act of a drama which, for the
honour of all parties concerned, should not have
been enacted. Sir Allan MacNab had a stormy
and eventful life; he should at least have found
a respite in the grave.

CHAPTER XV.

THE INTER-COLONIAL RAILWAY.

Origin of the Important Scheme—Interest taken in the Under-
taking by the British Government at various times— Promises
but no Performances—Extent of Line formed by the Canadian
Government— Conference of the Executive Representatives of
the Three Provinces— Length and Expense of the Line to Com-
plete the Communication—Winter March ou; the British
T: oops from Halifax to Canada—Difficulties as to Routes for
the Projected Railway—The Trade of Canada in Relation to
the Sister Provinces—Circular of the Finance Minister—
Monopoly of Colonial Trade by American Shipowners,

Ear.y in the month of September the seat of
Government was honoured by the presence of
several distinguished visitors. These embraced
the Earl of Mulgrave, Lieutenant-Governor of
Nova Scotia ; the Honourable Mr. Gordon,
Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick ; and the
Honourable Messrs. Howe and Tilley, Premiers
of their respective Provinces. The principal
object of their visit was to consult with the
Canadian Government upon the course most
desirable to pursue towards promoting the long
contemplated Inter-colonial Railway. This sub-

der-
jises

tish

er—

ORIGIN OF THE SCHEME. 301

ject has had a sort of chronic existence from the
time of the Rebellion ; but at no period had the
settlement of the question been more urgent than
when unpleasant relations between the States and
Great Britain were considered possible, if not
probable. An easy and direct communication
with Halifax and its intermediate localities would
confer manifest advantages, especially upon Lower
Canada, and greatly stimulate the trade of
Quebec. The completion of a trunk line through
the main Provinces of British North America,
would not only facilitate the growth of the
Western grain traffic—so retarded during the
winter season, when navigation becomes closed—
but would aid the respective colonies in lending a
helping hand for their mutual defence. And
perhaps there is no method by which that defence
could be better provided for, or gain a more
powerful auxiliary, than by the completion of a
railroad through British territory.

Lord Melbourne’s administration, upon the es-
tablishment of Transatlantic steam navigation in
1838, originated the important idea of connect-
ing the Upper with the Lower Provinces of
English America, Lord Durham also in his
Report on Canada, strongly recommended the con-
struction of a railway between Halifax and Quebec.
Subsequently, Sir Robert Peel and Mr. Gladstone,

302 ENGLISH AMERICA.

when Colonial Secretary, organised a survey
for a railroad, to the expense of which explora-
tion the Provinces liberally contributed 30,0004.
The survey and report were so favourable to the
project, that the Home Government pledged
themselves to recommend Parliament to guarantee
& minimum rate of interest on the capital
requisite for its construction, or else to advance
the necessary funds from the Imperial treasury.
However, before any action had been taken in
the matter, the Ministry went out of office.
Succeeding administrations renewed the promises
and expectations of former Governments ; but in
one case the project fell into abeyance on a ques-
tion of route; and in the other, a rupture with
Russia caused the subject to be set temporarily
aside.

Meanwhile the Colonial authorities, relying
upon ministerial assurances, went to work vigour-
ously, and from their own unaided resources
actually formed two hundred and eighty-four
miles of the Halifax line, besides extending the
Grand Trunk one hundred and fourteen miles
below Quebec on the same route, leaving only
about three hundred and fifty miles to complete
the important scheme, which has so frequentiy,
both by memorials and petitions, been pressed
upon the Imperial Government. All this has

COST OF CONSTRUCTION. 303

been done at a cost to the Provinces of 3,111,500/.
sterling, involving an annual charge upon their re-
spective Revenues to the extent of 186,000/. Having
accomplished so much, Canada and her sister de-
pendencies found that they could prosecute the
undertaking no further without Imperial aid; and
again they renewed their application, when, un-
fortunately, the Indian mutiny interfered, so that
the Government were compelled to postpone its
consideration.

A Conference of the Executive representatives
of the three Provinces was held on Wednesday,
September 17th, and following days, in the Council
Chamber. The distinguished persons who com-
posed the assembly consisted of Lords Monck
and Mulgrave, the Canadian Cabinet, the Honour-
able Messrs. Howe and Tilley, in addition to the
Honourable Messrs. McCully and Denman,
delegates from Nova Scotia, and the Honourable
Messrs. Mitchell and Steeves, delegates from
New Brunswick.

The cost of constructing junction lines between
Truro and Shediac, and between Frederickton
and Riviére du Loup, is estimated at three
millions sterling. A proposal has been made to
the Imperial Government by the three Provinces
interested, that if they would guarantee a
minimum rate of interest at four per cent. on the

304 ENGLISH AMERICA.

outlay (120,000/. per annum), the Colonial
Government would each charge their respective
revenues with the payment of 20,000/. to meet
the interest on capital invested, should the scheme
not prove remunerative. In addition to this
guarantee of 60,000/. a right of way is offered
for the entire road through public and private
property, together with ten miles of ungranted
land on either side of the line.

A like sum of 60,000/. annually is asked of the
Imperial Government for the conveyance of mails,
troops, and military stores. But in reality Eng-
land would have the payment of this amount at
her disposal by the saving she would effect. For
example, over 70,000/. are annually disbursed by
the British Government, in subsidies to the
United States and the Cunard Company for
Atlantic mail service. The gross cost is indeed
189,500/.; but of this about 112,000/. are re-
ceived in postage. These services could with ad-
vantage be transferred to the projected line.
Besides, as Halifax happens to be five hundred
miles nearer to our shores, the States would only
be too willing to pay twenty or thirty thousand
pounds for the transmission of their mails by this
route. Consequently, England would bemany thou-
sand pounds the gainer by the arrangement, sup-
posing even that the line did not prove self-sustain-

MILITARY EXPENSES. 305

ing or the Provinces faithful to their engage-
ment. Of the latter, however, there can be
no doubt, judging from experience.

Seventeen years since, this country gave a
guarantee of one million five hundred thousand
pounds for Canada, towards the completion of her
canals. In evidence of her good faith it is only
necessary to state that the whole amount has
been raised by our colony four years ago, and is
now in the hands of the British Government,
for the redemption of bonds as they fall due.
Nor has the Imperial exchequer been called upon
to contribute the smallest sum in liquidation
of that guarantee. Assuredly, Canada is not less
able now to fulfil an honourable monetary en-
gagement than she has hitherto been.

At present, the military expenses of the colo-
nies entail upon this country an outlay of about
four hundred and twenty thousand pounds a year.
Reinforcements cannot be dispatched to Canada
without the St. Lawrence is navigable; and a
sufficient force has to be maintained in time of
peace so as to hold the various garrisons for six
months in case of war. This expense would be
vastly diminished were there uninterrupted rail-
way communication between Halifax and Quebec,
With such a connecting link ten thousand
troops could, in case of emergency, be dis-
patched from one point to another in twenty-

306 ENGLISH AMERICA.

four hours. By the present, and only available
mode of transit, it is impossible to move more
than one hundred men together, and at the rate
of thirty miles a day; so that a regiment start-
ing from Halifax would take three weeks to reach
Quebec. The difficulty can scarcely be overrated
of transporting troops and warlike munitions for
three hundred and fifty miles, through a bleak
wilderness, over narrow roads, covered eight feet
high with snow, and the thermometer having the
mercury frozen !

The march from Nova Scotia to Canada, during
the winter of 1862, severely tested the temper and

endurance of British troops. I subjoin a few
condensed extracts, from some notes taken by
Lieutenant Lynch J. Keogh, of the Military
Train, on that memorable occasion; and which
were supplied to me by that officer while in the
Province :—

“Feb. 17.—Left Halifax in steamer for St.
John’s, N.B., all of us being greatly pleased at
taking leave of Nova Scotia, where officers, non-
commissioned officers, and men were alike much
knocked about—a circumstance almost unavoid-
able, owing to the large number of troops ar-
riving by each steamer from Europe. A field-
officer, upon inquiring where his officers where
to go, was tersely told ‘anywhere they liked ;’

A COUNTERMARCH. 307
upon which one facetious fellow suggested ‘tents,’
and the glass below zero !

‘Feb. 18.—Arrived at 6 p.m., at St. John’s,
N.B., after an unusually quick passage of twenty-
seven hours. Weather intensely cold, with snow.
The coast between Nova Scotia and Long Island
abounds with rocks hidden by water, which, to-
gether with frequent snow storms, render the
navigation difficult, if not dangerous,

‘Feb. 19.—Disembarked at 10 a.m. Two
troops got into sleighs ready for them at the
wharf, and set off for Petersyille, a distance of
thirty miles. Each sleigh accommodated eight
men, and was drawn by two wretched horses.

‘Feb. 20.—From two to five feet of snow on
the ground, with a bitter cold wind, and just suf-
ficient light to observe large wet flakes of snow
falling from a grey and heavy-laden sky. Every
one white with snow, shapeless in figure, and
almost unrecognisable. Could only travel at a
very slow pace, the roads being nearly blocked up.
After some time we reached Grand Bay, which is

crossed on the ice. Our teamsters (French.

Canadians) however, insisted to a man that they
would not risk crossing, fearing from the great
depth of the snow and the severity of the storm,
that they would miss the track indicated by
branches of fir trees stuck in the snow, about one

Ms
ie

308 ENGLISH AMERICA.

hundred yards apart. The Quarter- Master General,
who drove as far as this, ordered our return;
so about 2 p.m. we reached St. John’s, looking
more like lumps of ice than living beings. On
our return the wood yards were closed, and some
could get no fires made until a kind citizen, hear-
ing of our privation, forwarded a supply.

‘Feb. 21.—Prepared to set off again. The
men had just taken their seats in the sleighs when
a telegram arrived, conveying the grim intelli-
gence that the roads were impassable, and that
two troops, who had left a day or two before, had
got no further than Acomacto, between Peters-
ville and Frederickton, where they were actually
dhowed up.

‘” & Feb, 22,—At 7 p.m. prepared to set off again.
Snow falling, but weather more moderate. Roads
*very heavy, the snow in some places being six
feet above the ordinary level. After a few hours
we crossed Grand Bay—a glittering sea of ice eight
Yailes in extent. Here we were surrounded by
mountains covered from base to summit with tall
.trees, all alike enveloped in snow. I asked our
teamster if there was any danger in crossing a
bay which, when thawed, floats the largest ships ?
‘Yes,’ he observed, ‘now and then. Some
years since the mail sleigh got on it during a snow
storm; the driver missed the track, and sleigh,

‘* ROUGHING IT.” 309
mail horses, and all were lost in an air hole.’ At5
p-m. wearrived at Petersville—30 miles —where we
were all stowed away in a log hut, the only avail-
able accommodation the place could afford. We
cooked our dinners as well as possible, and lay
for the night on the ground, side by side, covered
with rugs, blankets, buffalo skins, etc., present-
ing anything but a picturesque appearance.
“Feb. 23.—Sunday. Breakfasted on tea, and
cold hard eggs. Got our men into sleighs about
7 a.m. and moved off. Weather bitterly cold with
snow. At 6 p.m. arrived at Frederickton, which
consists of one extended street, lying along the
river St. John. At the hotel we were charged
exorbitantly, and very badly accommodated ; but
after twelve hours sleighing, and the glass below
zero, we cared for little beside warmth and rest.
“Feb, 24.—At 7.30 a.m. left Frederickton for
Tilley’s—a half-way house to Woodstock. The
morning being extremely cold and windy. At 5
p-m. we arrived at the termination of our twenty-
nine miles of n 1, each of us being cold, jaded,
and hungry. ommodation here is very bad ;
worse than that any log hut might supply,
officers and men being packed together, like pigs
on board an Irish steamer. With the exception of
the commanding officer and the next senior, eight
of the officers had to lie side by side on the floor,

310 ENGLISH AMERICA.

and the men had to shift as well as they could
with quarters or without.

“‘ Feb. 25.—Up at 7 a.m. Weather unbearably
cold. We try to get an ablution, but discover
that there are but two basins between ten of us,
and that water is difficult to be procured. All
night it has been blowing and snowing hard, and
the teamsters refuse to proceed. Unless covered
securely from head to foot not a man of us could
stand in the air for a moment without being frozen.
Passed a comfortless day.

“Feb. 26.—Left for Woodstock at 6.30 a.m.,
the weather being still very bleak. Roads heavy
and difficult to get over. In several instances we
had to cut through massive trees that were blown
down across the road to which they had become
frozen, and agaiu repeatedly through snow drifts
over seven feet high. After much trouble we ar-
rived at our destination, a distance of thirty-two
miles, at 7.30 p.m. Here we were comfortably
accommodated, but, as usual, charged exor-
bitantly.

“Feb. 27.—Set off from Woodstock for Flo-
renceville at 7.30 a.m., weather clear, but cold.
During our journey had to cut through some
heavy drifts, at one or two of which our drivers
consulted together about the advisability of pro-
ceeding further. At one of these drifts we had

SNOW DRIFTS. 311

twenty-five men at either end, and full two hours
elapsed ere they could cut a passage through.
Four miles further and we reached an almost im-
passable barrier, so that the teamsters growled
exceedingly, observing that ‘the roads were too
bad to get forward.’ Horses were removed from
the sleighs and carried by the troops safely over
the drift. At 9.30 p.m. we arrived at Florence-
ville. At the inn we were charged excessively,
viz., two and a-half dollars, or ten shillings ster-
ling, for bed, breakfast, and dinner, and twelve
and a-half cents. a glass for beer.

“Feb, 28.—At 7 a.m. started for Tobique;
weather cold, and roads indifferent. We encoun-
tered no obstructions, as the party who preceded
us cut through all the drifts, which in some in-
stances reached to the top of the telegraph poles.
About 4 p.m. we arrived at Tobique, a march of
twenty-three miles. Here the officers and men
were well treated, and not overcharged as hereto-
fore; a circumstance I attribute to the landlord
of the inn being an Englishman.

‘March 1.—Left for Grand Falls, a twenty-
four miles’ march. Weather more mild, and
roads better than usual. The entire country
mantled in snow, so that nothing was seen but the
tops of interminable snake pines, At 4 p.m. got
to the end of our march.

** March 2.—At 6 a.m. left for Little Falls, a

es

Fac catego mae sma

312 ENGLISH AMERICA.

journey of thirty-six miles; weather fine but ex-
tremely cold. Crossed the river St. John, a
quarter of a mile above the Falls. Shortly after
leaving Grand Falls we came amid French set-
tlements. One side of the river is the State of
Maine; and a wide path is observable, within
a forest, to mark the boundary between it and
New Brunswick. At 5 p.m. we arrived at our
destination. The river St. John being but one
hundred yards wide, some of the officers walked
across, and for the first time set foot on the ex-
United States’ soil. Only two beds could be pru-
cured ; consequently the rest of us had to sleep
in a room on the floor, for which accommodation,
including a couple of miserable meals, we had to
pay two and a-half dollars,

“ March 3.—This morning left Little Falls for
Fortingale, on Lake Tenniscouata —a march of
forty miles. Upon leaving the river Madawaska,
we came to the boundary line between New Bruns-
wick and Canada, Instead of the wretched snow
path through the former Province, you now
find a fine wide snow-road, as level and good as
any highway in England. In Fortingale there
are but few houses; but the lake scenery is
agreeable. The inn is a frightful place, the pro-
prietor being a French Canadian, a most
rascal—who fleeced us fearfully.

‘¢ March 4.—Left for Riviére du Loup, another

’ but ex-
John, a
‘tly after
nch set-
State of
, within
it and
l at our
but one
walked
the ex-
be pru-
O sleep
dation,
had to

alls for
arch of
waska,
3runs-
| snow

now
od as
there
ery is
2 pro-

— EE

other

A KNOTTY POINT. 313

march of forty miles, which place we reached at
5.30 p.m.; all of us delighted to find our pro-
tracted and wearisome journey brought to an end.
Officers and men were well put up here. Hotel
good and charges moderate.

‘¢ March 5 to 7.—Snowed up at Riviére du Loup,
the railway carriages being unable to proceed.

‘‘March 8.—This morning, the lines having
been cleared, we started for Montreal, which place
we reached the next day. Until suitable accom-
modation was provided we had to sojourn at an
hotel, without the usual allowance being granted to
us, although claimed; a similar refusal of five shil-
lings per day, to which officers are entitled by
Royal Warrant while detaincd in a town or on
the march, was likewise refused by the military
authorities at Halifax.”

These extracts from my friend’s diary will afford
atolerably accurate idea of the difficulties, dangers,
and delay, consequent upon transporting troops in
the depth of winter from Halifax to Canada. They
likewise exhibit the necessity for a railway com-
munication between both Provinces.

During the Conference a knotty point arose in
the discussion of the Inter-colonial Railway ques-
tion. This had special reference to the exact
route to be selected for the road. The delegates

VOL. {. P

ry .( > wee
> Bt . -
ee y 5

314 ENGLISH AMERICA.

of Nova Scotia felt no hesitation in deciding this
matter, neither did those of Canada; but the diffi-
culty was created by the representatives of New
Brunswick herself. Consequently it was decided
to leave the absolute choice of route to a commis-
sion of four gentlemen, who should be selected by
the governments of the three Provinces; two Com-
missioners representing Canada, and the others
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick respectively.
Provision was likewise made for the appointment
of an umpire in case any dispute should arise to
justify such an appeal; a contingency not at all
improbable, considering the collision of antago-
nistic interests likely to become developed.

A survey for the projected line of communica-
tion, as I have already stated, was conducted by
Major Robinson, during 1847-48, at the instiga-
tion of the Imperial Government. The gallant

- major, judging from his report, approved of carry-

ing the railway along the shores of the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, instead of by a more direct central
route, which would lessen the distance by nearly
fifty miles. It can scarcely be doubted that his
preference for a remote circuitous line may be
partially ascribed to his anxiety to keep it as far
as practicable from the American frontier. The
total distance from Halifax to Quebec, vid the
Gulf, is about six hundred and thirty miles, ac-

this
iffi-
New

ided -

mis-
d by
om -
hers
vely.
nent
je to
it all
jago=

nica-
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tiga-
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arry-
of St.

ontral :

rearly
at: his
ay be
as far

The
id the
@8, AC-

COMPETITIVE PROJECTS. 315

cording to Major Robinson’s calculation. Since
the date of his report, however, sections of railway
from Quebec to Riviére du Loup, and from
Hal ifax to Truro, have been constructed, making
in the aggregate one hundred and seventy miles.
Hence, but four hundred and seventy miles of
road would have to be built in order to complete
the connection.

Some persons favour what is termed the cen-
tral route, of which no official survey has been
made. Asa portion of the projected line would
pass by this route over portions of the European
and North American Railway, the actual distance
necessary to be constructed would be curtailed
about seventy-four miles. Then the route wd the
River St. John had been spoken of as most feasi-
ble, thereby attracting much attention in the im-
mediate localities bordering upon particular dis-
tricts through which that current winds. The
advantages claimed by the advocates of this
scheme are, that such a route would amalgamate
with the railways already in operation, and com-
plete the proposed systems, requiring forty-one
miles less new work than the central line, and
one hundred and fifteen miles less than that vid
the Guli, These partisans notwithstanding seemed
to be either ignorant of, or to ignore the facts,
that the St. John line exceeds the central line by

316 ENGLISH AMERICA.

one hundred and fifteen miles, and that wd the
Gulf by sixty-three miles, which it would have to
pass for two hundred miles in the vicinity of the
American boundary—a highly important con-
sideration, which, regarded in a defensive point
of view, must certainly possess serious weight
with the Imperial authorities.

Annexed is a recapitulation, in a tabular form,
of the respective distances of the three competi-
tive projects from Truro to Riviére du Loup,
taken from a report presented to the government
by Mr. Light, an engineer occupying an in.
fluential professional position in New Brunswick :

No I—Magor Rosinson’s Nortu Suore LIne,

Miles,
Truro to Bay Verte - - - - ° « 69
Bay Verte to Shediac - - ° ® 26
Shediac to Indiantown, Miramichi River - - - 74
Indiantown to Bathurst - ~ - - - 56
Bathurst to Dalhousi - - ° « 48
Dalhousi to Mouth of Metapediac River - - . 80
Metapediac to Najet River, branch of Metis - - 86
Najet River to Rivitredu Loup = - - - . 81
Truro to Riviéredu Loup = - - - - 470
No, II.—CEnTRAL Route,
Truro to Bay Verte - 69
Bay Verte to Intersection of European and North American j
ailwav - - - 24
Along European and North American Railway - - 22
Thence to Boiestown - ° ° 75
Boiestown to Miramichi Lake - - - . 80 :
i Miramichi Lake to Waggon Portage - - . ° 75
| Waggon siyteg to Edmonston - - - ° 27
Edmonston to Rivitre du Loup - - . ° 96

Deduct road already made
Road to be made - - - ° «

IMPORTANCE OF THE LINE. 317

No. III.—St. Jonn River Route. Miles

Truro to Bay Verte - - 69

Ba Hae to Intersection of ‘European and ‘North American
ilway - « e * 6 2

Along sat Railway to St. John - 102

St. John to Inte -section of St. Andrew’s and Quebec ‘Railway 62

Along Quebec Railway to Woodstock - - - 75
Woodstock to Grand Falls - - - - 65
Grand Falls to Edmonston - - - - - 39
Edmonston to Rivitre du Loup - - - - 96
532

Of this 75 and 102 miles are already made _ - - 17

Road to be formed - - - - - 855

Whatever route from Quebec to Halifax may
ultimately be decided upon, one thing is certain
that the Government of Canada undertook to
build and maintain five-twelfths of the road. It
is only to be regretted that the prosecution of so
important an undertaking should have been
postponed, owing, amongst other reasons, to
some difficulty about adjusting the expenses of a
new survey. The Inter-colonial Railroad, apart
from mercantile considerations and advantages,
has become a military necessity, and the Canadian
government feeling this, decisively and readily
responded to the proposition of the Colonial
Secretary. Access to the Atlantic is urgently
needed during the winter months; the means of
military connection with England needs to be
secured ; and it is only by means of the projected
railway that such necessary and desirable ends
can be obtained.

P 3

318 ENGLISH AMERICA.

While the Conference was holding its sittings
the Minister of Finance issued an elaborate tabu-
lated circular, which was privately distributed
amongst the Executive Council and the delegates
of the other Provinces, relative to one of the
topics which engaged its attention, viz., the trade
of Canada in relation to New Brunswick and
Nova Scotia. As the Honourable Mr. Howland
kindly favoured me with a copy, I am enabled to
give the following details :

The report contains thirteen tables, all of
which are very exhaustive, The first three illus-
trate the Canadian export and import trade with
the sister colonies for the four preceding years;
and so far afford results as important as they are
satisfactory. The total imports into Canada by
the St. Lawrence from the Lower Provinces
amounted in 1858 to 317,148 dollars; in 1859 to
352,222 dollars; in 1860 to 415,812 dollars; and
in 1861 to 478,130 dollars; forming respectively
1.45 per cent., 1.13 per cent., 1.14 per cent., and
1.15 per cent. of the entire imports of the Pro-
vince.

The exports from Canada to the English

-merican Colonies were, in 1858, 960,428 dols. ;
in 1859, 840,475 dollars; in 1860, 723,534
dollars; and in 1861, 1,030,939 dollars; or re-
spectively 4.08 per cent., 3.389 per cent., 2.08 per

IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 319

cent., and 2.84 per cent. of vue total exports.
The excess of exports over imports for the same
period of four years was 536,602 dollars ; 459,720
dollars; 329,670 dollars ; and 531,962 dollars.
Table iv. gives a statistical view of the entire
export and import trado of the five colonies for
1860 and 1861, estimated from the various offi-
cial returns, By this it appears that in 1860 the
imports per head of the population were: Canada,
18 dols. 73 c.; Nova Scotia, 25 dols. 72 c.; New
Brunswick, 27 dols. 55 c.; Prince Edward’s
Island, 13 dols. 65 c.; and Newfounaland, 49
dols. 76 c. Table v. exhibits in contrast the
tariffs of the several Provinces; the articles
selected for comparison being such on which duty
had been collected to the extent of 10,000 dols.,
and comprising 94} per cent. of the whole. Mr.
Howland affirms that with a more extended
trade between Canada and the Lower Provinces,
the Canadians could compete, not with British
manufacturers, but with those of the Federal States.
Hence he devotes tables vi. vil. vill. and Ix. to
show the exact nature of the imports from
America to each colony; the aggregate result of
which he gives in table x. These imports con-
sist of two kinds, viz., free goods (chiefly under
the Reciprocity Treaty) and dutiable commodi-
ties. The following table shows the amount of im-

320 ENGLISH AMERICA.

ports and exports from and to the States during
the year 1860:

IMPORTS,
Dollars.
Nova Scotia : P ‘ . 2,637,530
New Brunswick é . 8,805,441
Prince Edward's Island « ’ - 270,860
Newfoundland . . - 1,744,501
Total . . ‘ - 7,956,832
EXPorts,
Nova Scotia : . ‘ « 1,523,555
New Brunswick . ; - 1,192,214
Prince Edward’s Teland « : - 876,348
Newfoundland . . » 403,954
8,496,091

It was stated as an indisputable fact, though
not mentioned in the report, that the total im-
ports of these Provinces from the States, of arti-
cles which Canada might supply, were, speaking
in round numbers, equal to the aggregate exports
from Canada to the States.

Tables xi. and xii. exhibit how trifling would
be the immediate loss of revenue if the proposi-
tion suggested by the Finance Minister were
adopted ; for, as the report observes, “‘ Regulations
would, of course, be framed for the protection of
the revenue of each colony, to prevent the free
admission of other goods than those coming
within the scope of the convention.”

Shortly after the preparation of the brochure
the communication had with the Imperial autho-
rities eventuated in an expression of their ap-

AN UGLY NEIGHBOUR. 321

proval of the plan which had received the
preliminary sanction of the three Provinces.

The formation of an Inter-colonial Railway would
prove of immense commercial importance to this
country, as well as to our colonial empire. About
five millions sterling of British manufactures find
their way annually into Canada. This gives,
amongst a spare population of two and a half
millions, about twenty shillings per head more
than for the people of the United States, even
before the Morrill tariff or the civil war restricted
our commerce. Already our exports to Canada
nearly equal these to the States—war materials
excluded. Not less than ten millions sterling of
the Canadian trade passes through America every
year; while, if access could be had to English
ports in the Atlantic, it would prevent nearly the
whole carrying trade of the Province from being
monopolized by American shipowners. Canadian
breadstuffs to the amount of another half-a-mil-
lior sterling a year are drawn through the States
by Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

Ovr “ frozen frontier’? in English America is,
not only in a military but commercial sense, at
the mercy of a very ugly, saucy, vacillating, and
dangerous neighbour. As one writer tersely re-
marks, in alluding to conflicting American and
Canadian interests :—

322 ENGLISH AMERICA.

*¢ The States can pass transit duties, discrimi-
nating duties, prohibitory duties; they can, in fact,
close our and Canada’s through trade altogether ;
they can terminate the postal treaty, and just
drop Canada back into the age when railways
were unknown for the transmission of letters.
But once complete the proposed communication
between the Provinces, and all those evils vanish.
With an independent line through British terri-
tory from Halifax to Lake Huron—fourteen hun-
dred miles transit—discriminating, prohibitory,
nay, even protective duties, are utterly impossi-
ble; no argument, no treaty, no favour would so
certainly secure free trade between this country
and the United States as the completion of this
railway route.”

Before the departure from Quebec of the
Honourable Messrs. Howe and Tilley a private
complimentary dinner was given to them by the
Premier, at the Stadacona Club. To this I had
the privilege of being formally invited. Several
members of the Administration were present, in
addition to Baron Boilleau, Consul-General of
France. Of course I was duly presented to the
distinguished guests from the sister Provinces,
with whose ingenuous characters and sterling
qualities I was highly impressed. These gentle-
men were not charged with any special mission to

SURVEYING FOR THE LINE. 323

Canada, although their visit bore an informal re-
lation to renewed negociations on the subject of
the Inter-colonial Railway. Since then I had the
pleasure of occasionally meeting with Messrs.
Howe and Tilley in London, while they were on
an official embassy to this country. I only re-
gret that the important project they seemed to
have so much at heart, and for the accomplish-
ment of which they have laboured so assiduously,
should have been even temporarily abandoned.
It appears, however, that Mr. Sandford Fleming
commenced his survey of the route for the pro-
jected railway early this year over the snow,
which is said to have been a help and not a
hindrance in some parts of the work. Such a

‘favourable sign of action begets the hope that

the long-wished for Inter-colonial Railway will
be, ere long, not an ideality, but a reality.

END OF VOL. I.

T. O. Newsy, 80, Welbeck Street, Cavendish Square, London,